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I live within the same area (Orange County) and wanted to see if you can provide me with the shop's info that repaired your P2753 code error since i'm experiencing the same issue
I live within the same area (Orange County) and wanted to see if you can provide me with the shop's info that repaired your P2753 code error since i'm experiencing the same issue
Good info in case I get this code in the future. Knock on wood I won't but who knows. These mid-west weather is harsh on cars with lots of electronics these days.
Good info in case I get this code in the future. Knock on wood I won't but who knows. These mid-west weather is harsh on cars with lots of electronics these days.
I'ts generally heat related. The wires and connector tend to crust and fail due to the excessive heat nearby. The sensor itself could or could not fail as well due to same heat reason or simple wear and tear lifespan of that piece of electronics.
I’m at 97500 miles and once again she throws a code (P2753) to show me who is boss. First I need to say thanks to IknowHuhA6 and Sparta for posting the parts and picture that gave me the confidence to tackle this myself. I’m going to write up what I did and found because I took “Driver side inner fender” to mean I had to start taking the wheel well apart. We’ll just pretend that didn’t happen and I started where I should have ...from the beginning.
I do not have a lift, but I have ramps that pick the front end up fairly high. I tried to do this with a jack at first but could not get the car high enough off the ground to slide back to where I needed to work. Now that the car was up on the ramps it was time to remove both shrouds under the car. Next, you need an 18mm and impact driver to remove the 8 bolts that hold on the cross member to gain better access to the solenoid. There will be a harness with little plastic ends that can be squeezed with pliers and pushed through, and a plug that slides off its mount, do not pull it off. Once the cross member is off, then it looks like the pic posted by IknowHuhA6 earlier in this thread. Now it is pretty easy, just pinch off the coolant lines with some vice grips, unscrew the solenoid’s 2 T-30 torx screws and remove the plug. Once that was off I immediately saw the problem. Both the solenoid terminals and the plug were green and corroded and water spilled out of the plug end of the solenoid. I pushed back the heat shield on the wire, pulled some wire out of the plastic tube that holds the wires and cut the plug off about 3 inches in. I spliced in the new plug and put everything back in opposite order. I drove the car about 40 miles and the pesky check engine light is off. I’m going to clear any old codes this weekend just to be sure.
Things I noted while doing this job:
Even with the pinched off hose about a quart of coolant came out of the solenoid and the remaining lines.
The water that came out of the plug end of the solenoid was clear, not red like it was from the coolant as I would have expected.
I should have cut the plug wires uneven because when I spliced the new plug back in I had trouble fitting it back in the plastic tube requiring lots of electrical tape.
I ordered both wires by IknowHuhA6 and Sparta. One was thicker than the other...the thinner wire was the match although I took them both out to match and couldn’t figure out which part number I actually used.
I discovered some oil while I was under there. It wasn’t a lot, probably just some that spilled from the last oil change but I didn’t have the time to investigate. I’m sure that will be a future post.
Again, thank you IknowHuhA6 and Sparta and the rest of you DIYers that turn an expensive job into one that was just less than $200 and took about 2 hours to complete.
The corroded plug. It came out easy but I busted it investigating how deep the corrosion went.
I’m at 97500 miles and once again she throws a code (P2753) to show me who is boss.
Hehe, that made me laugh. So true, isn't it...
Originally Posted by Bartenderfloyd
II do not have a lift, but I have ramps that pick the front end up fairly high. I tried to do this with a jack at first but could not get the car high enough off the ground to slide back to where I needed to work. Now that the car was up on the ramps it was time to remove both shrouds under the car. Next, you need an 18mm and impact driver to remove the 8 bolts that hold on the cross member to gain better access to the solenoid.
What ramps do you have and used? I don't have any ramps, so trying to figure out if I can do this myself. I have pretty good jack stands, but I'm guessing by your statement that these won't be enough?
Also, did anyone that DIY, replace the bolts holding the cross brace? According to Audi workshop manual, those should be renewed (replaced) whenever they are removed. I don't want to wait for new ones, but I also don't want to hurt the car.
01-11-2018, 08:27 PM
