2.7t timing belt installation
#1
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2.7t timing belt installation
I am doing my first timing belt on a 2.7t and have question about the installation of the belt.
I have read some about people lining up the teeth on the belt to make sure the timing is correct. How do you make sure that there is the correct number of teeth between the crank sprocket to the driver's side cam sprocket and so on? Do you just make sure there is no slack between the sprockets except where the tensioner is?
Thanks!
I have read some about people lining up the teeth on the belt to make sure the timing is correct. How do you make sure that there is the correct number of teeth between the crank sprocket to the driver's side cam sprocket and so on? Do you just make sure there is no slack between the sprockets except where the tensioner is?
Thanks!
#2
I am doing my first timing belt on a 2.7t and have question about the installation of the belt.
I have read some about people lining up the teeth on the belt to make sure the timing is correct. How do you make sure that there is the correct number of teeth between the crank sprocket to the driver's side cam sprocket and so on? Do you just make sure there is no slack between the sprockets except where the tensioner is?
Thanks!
I have read some about people lining up the teeth on the belt to make sure the timing is correct. How do you make sure that there is the correct number of teeth between the crank sprocket to the driver's side cam sprocket and so on? Do you just make sure there is no slack between the sprockets except where the tensioner is?
Thanks!
#3
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Yes, get the cam lock and crank lock tools, they make things much easier.
An example of where to buy them;
http://www.zdmaktools.com/wbstore/ma...CTMP=1&LowCt=0
You'll also want a stubby phillips screwdriver to pin back the accessory belt tensioner and a small strong wire like clothes hanger wire to pin the timing belt tensioner closed. I believe zdmak sells those as well.
An example of where to buy them;
http://www.zdmaktools.com/wbstore/ma...CTMP=1&LowCt=0
You'll also want a stubby phillips screwdriver to pin back the accessory belt tensioner and a small strong wire like clothes hanger wire to pin the timing belt tensioner closed. I believe zdmak sells those as well.
#4
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I got the timing belt kit and the tool kit from Blauparts. So I am good there.
I read some other posts on the site and figured out the answer to my question. What wasn't making sense to me is how the slack gets out of the belt. But, I realized after when you pull the cam sprockets they spin freely and when you put tension back on the belt the slack comes right out because the sprockets spin freely without turning the cams. Then you torque down the washers and timing is set.
That is where I am now with the timing belt change. I got the sprockets pulled, put the new belt on, pre-loaded the tensioner and torqued down the cam washers. Crank is at TDC and the large holes in the washers are in the center in a nice straight, level line with the small holes.
So, I think am good to go. Just gotta put everything back together tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I read some other posts on the site and figured out the answer to my question. What wasn't making sense to me is how the slack gets out of the belt. But, I realized after when you pull the cam sprockets they spin freely and when you put tension back on the belt the slack comes right out because the sprockets spin freely without turning the cams. Then you torque down the washers and timing is set.
That is where I am now with the timing belt change. I got the sprockets pulled, put the new belt on, pre-loaded the tensioner and torqued down the cam washers. Crank is at TDC and the large holes in the washers are in the center in a nice straight, level line with the small holes.
So, I think am good to go. Just gotta put everything back together tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestions.
#5
Cam sprockets?
I got the timing belt kit and the tool kit from Blauparts. So I am good there.
I read some other posts on the site and figured out the answer to my question. What wasn't making sense to me is how the slack gets out of the belt. But, I realized after when you pull the cam sprockets they spin freely and when you put tension back on the belt the slack comes right out because the sprockets spin freely without turning the cams. Then you torque down the washers and timing is set.
That is where I am now with the timing belt change. I got the sprockets pulled, put the new belt on, pre-loaded the tensioner and torqued down the cam washers. Crank is at TDC and the large holes in the washers are in the center in a nice straight, level line with the small holes.
So, I think am good to go. Just gotta put everything back together tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I read some other posts on the site and figured out the answer to my question. What wasn't making sense to me is how the slack gets out of the belt. But, I realized after when you pull the cam sprockets they spin freely and when you put tension back on the belt the slack comes right out because the sprockets spin freely without turning the cams. Then you torque down the washers and timing is set.
That is where I am now with the timing belt change. I got the sprockets pulled, put the new belt on, pre-loaded the tensioner and torqued down the cam washers. Crank is at TDC and the large holes in the washers are in the center in a nice straight, level line with the small holes.
So, I think am good to go. Just gotta put everything back together tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestions.
#6
I did the Blauparts Enhanced Timing Belt Kit and Tools back in early April. It was a daunting job but got everything done including all new cam seals. Yanking out all my camshafts was something that I was not looking forward to. I now have about 7,500 miles on it and so far so good.
BTW I could not get the crankshaft looking pin in without removing the pressure pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. I spent about an hour trying to get it back on and the clamp tightened.
BTW I could not get the crankshaft looking pin in without removing the pressure pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. I spent about an hour trying to get it back on and the clamp tightened.
#7
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Don't forget that the chains hold the cams pretty steady and the cam lock tool actually fits to the cam end not the sprocket so you can keep the tool on without the sprockets.
AR15, I'm not sure if anyone has managed to get that crank pin in without removing that pipe. I helped a buddy on his s4 and getting that pin in the block was a huge PITA.
AR15, I'm not sure if anyone has managed to get that crank pin in without removing that pipe. I helped a buddy on his s4 and getting that pin in the block was a huge PITA.
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