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2.8 cam chain and tensioner replacement

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Old 12-01-2014, 07:26 PM
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After you have the exhaust cam EDIT: Intake cam!! back in, and you quadruple checked 16 rollers on chain(or whatever the number, check your Bentley manual) and notch matches arrow on cam cap end, tighten all the cam caps in order specified in Bentley manual. Then rotate the engine by hand two revolutions, then count the rollers on chain again. Marks on chain made by you won't match, that's fine...

Last edited by indoor; 12-02-2014 at 12:01 PM.
Old 12-02-2014, 05:59 AM
  #122  
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Default Not if you don't take out the exhaust cam!!

Originally Posted by indoor
I hate to brake it to you, but even with the tensioner tool it's a PITA to put the exhaust cam back in. Again, it took me one hour to get it in and by the mark. I swung it around like a helicopter trying any possible angle I remember that I put the sproket side in first while the cam position side of cam was up(then forced it pass the inner timing belt cover).

If you look at one of the videos I linked, the 1.8T engine one, they don't actually show how the exhaust cam goes in because they spent too much time struggling No one wants to see the cussing and all that

Blauparts shows a video of how both cams along with the tensioner and chain slide in like butter But they have the timing belt off.

Keep at it and you'll get it in

There is no need to take out the exhaust cam on a V engine when replacing tensioner or shoes thereon. Last time I checked the 2.8 was a V. I wasn't aware OP had taken the exhaust cam out, especially since that would have required removing the TB and exhaust cam sprocket.
Old 12-02-2014, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
There is no need to take out the exhaust cam on a V engine when replacing tensioner or shoes thereon. Last time I checked the 2.8 was a V. I wasn't aware OP had taken the exhaust cam out, especially since that would have required removing the TB and exhaust cam sprocket.
Im getting confused guys?!
Would you please clarify so we are all on the same page.
I am working on bank 1, which is the passenger side correct? on bank 1 the tensioner is in the back of the engine on the A8 4.2L v8, I took the cam shaft which does not have the TB on it. I loosened the single cam covers for the camshaft which has the TB on only, and took the 2 double cam covers which need to be taken off in order to take the tensioner and one of the cam shafts off.
To my understanding the cam shaft that does not have the TB on is the exhaust cam in bank 1, is this correct?
see pic for more clarifications
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
There is no need to take out the exhaust cam on a V engine when replacing tensioner or shoes thereon. Last time I checked the 2.8 was a V. I wasn't aware OP had taken the exhaust cam out, especially since that would have required removing the TB and exhaust cam sprocket.
here's another pic
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:00 AM
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Yeah, dude, you're good. I think we're just confused about intake/exhaust cam nameing. The idea is that the cam shaft without the timing belt on it needs to come out...and you did already, right?

My bad, I corrected my post. Sorry for confusion!

Last edited by indoor; 12-02-2014 at 10:10 AM.
Old 12-02-2014, 10:05 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Moe1354
Im getting confused guys?!
Would you please clarify so we are all on the same page.
I am working on bank 1, which is the passenger side correct?
Correct. Bank 1 = PS = Right, Bank 2 = DS = Left

Originally Posted by Moe1354
on bank 1 the tensioner is in the back of the engine on the A8 4.2L v8
Correct.

Originally Posted by Moe1354
I took the cam shaft which does not have the TB on it. I loosened the single cam covers for the camshaft which has the TB on only, and took the 2 double cam covers which need to be taken off in order to take the tensioner and one of the cam shafts off.
To my understanding the cam shaft that does not have the TB on is the exhaust cam in bank 1, is this correct?
see pic for more clarifications
INCORRECT TB is on the exhaust cam sprocket. Intake & exhaust cams are easy to identify based on their location. The intake cam is located toward the top of the head, closest to the Intake manifold, or center of engine. Exhaust cam is located toward bottom of head, closest to the exhaust manifold.

Moe, your 2nd pic has me concerned that exhaust cam (the one with the TB on it) is approx. 90 deg out of position. The retaining flange on front of the sprocket has tangs on it with 2 different size holes in each tang (one big hole, one small hole). These holes should align horizontal if engine @ TDC & cam is in proper position. The flange holes in your pic appear to be vertical...unless its an optical illusion. So it appears to me that you do not have engine @ TDC position for timing alignment.

Can other AW members comment on this, as my experience is limited to the 2.7, however, I'm expecting that timing setup is similar.

Last edited by CRuby; 12-02-2014 at 10:24 AM.
Old 12-02-2014, 10:18 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by indoor
Yeah, dude, you're good. I think we're just confused about intake/exhaust cam nameing. The idea is that the cam shaft without the timing belt on it needs to come out...and you did already, right?

My bad, I corrected my post. Sorry for confusion!
Yes the cam shaft without the TB (intake cam) is out including the tensioner, what is this now about not being at TDC? The intake cam is at TDC according to the arrow and the notch, but remember I could not get the notch and the arrow line up in the exhaust cam per my previous posts.
Is this going to cause any issues if I proceed with the tensioner replacement as is?
***Reminder, I am not changing the TB just the tensioner.
Old 12-02-2014, 10:37 AM
  #128  
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Moe,
1st posting in link shows pics of exhaust cam sproket flanges with the holes aligned horizonally. This hopefully gives you a visual of how the flange should be positioned, even if you don't have the car in the service position, with front end components removed.
Timing Belt Change - DIY Cam locking tool - AudiForums.com
Old 12-02-2014, 11:42 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Moe1354
Hi Guys, The engine is at TDC, and locked the crank before taking the valve covers off, everything was going according to the plan I took the intake out got the tensioner out as I mentioned before the top pad was broker and the bottom pad when I took the tensioner out was non existent!!! put the new pads in on both sides, I was trying to put the tensioner back in and the freakin cam tensioner tool broke !!!@#$$% I don't know why they make those tools in plastic?!
so the job is on stand by ... I have to order another tool online or just buy one from the dealer.
a question for you guys though, as I mentioned the bottom pad was gone the chain was directly rubbing on the bottom part of the tensioner, when I put the bottom pad in it grabbed it solid, do you think I could get away by not replacing the tensioner at this point?
The last thing you said was engine is at TDC, with locked crank(with pin I assume?). How come now it's not at TDC?

I assumed here that somehow you managed to set correct TDC with notches on both cams lined up.

Last edited by indoor; 12-02-2014 at 11:47 AM.
Old 12-02-2014, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Moe1354
Yes the cam shaft without the TB (intake cam) is out including the tensioner, what is this now about not being at TDC? The intake cam is at TDC according to the arrow and the notch, but remember I could not get the notch and the arrow line up in the exhaust cam per my previous posts.
Is this going to cause any issues if I proceed with the tensioner replacement as is?
***Reminder, I am not changing the TB just the tensioner.
Because of your specific situation, and a few misunderstandings...it seems you are back to square 1: no TDC.

You have to pop the other valve cover off and post what you find. If nothing else, you have to replace that gasket anyway since they come in pairs when bought.

What I need to know is the position of cams on driver's side...

If not, tell me if the crank shaft(24mm 12 point socket) is lined up with mark. The crank shaft is where you turn the engine by hand.


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