NEU!

I have all of those seals/gaskets that you mentioned, they came with the Enhanced Valve Cover Gasket kit that I ordered from Blauparts. My plan is, one side at a time, to remove the cams and replace all of the tensioner pads as well as the seals.

I'll do the full timing belt service at some other point. Like I mentioned previously, I don't want to sink too much money into this car until I know that it's going to be worth fixing. If it makes it fine through the winter then I will do more work to it next year. It's been 2 years/43k miles since the last timing belt service at the dealer.

tester123

Ah! makes sense. Didn't realize before that there is such a kit for v6. For 4.2 they didn't have much of a variation. Anyway, you are on the right path. Good luck!

HENRYQ

Just out of interest.

What was the outcome of this post? any further information?

I might be looking at a similar job on one of my vehicles.

tester123

Yeah, I am also curious. Let us know how you did.

NEU!

This car has sat in the service position in my garage all winter gathering dust. Now that spring is here and I'm a little better organized I'm going to finish this project very soon, like hopefully next weekend. I need the space and my wife wants the car!

indoor

All right, well, sorry I didn't see this post earlier...but all the engine in service position and timing belt tools not necessary...
To replace the lower pad in the cam chain tensioner all you need to remove is the intake cam shaft(top one in your pic)
Some info here: http://www.robsaudiworld.com/2.8camseal.htm. Also video in following link: you need to watch from about 30:30 on time scale, not the whole video(it's a 1.8t engine, but similar):
On the engine side of the intake cam (or right) you need to remove the cam shaft position sensor. Start with that before you get into removing the cam shaft,(unplug the sensor first, then 2 10mm screws, one 13mm screw, very tight, then position ring and the cam seal, which is in the Blaupsrts kit). There is a vid for this on you tube, it is for the driver's side engine block but same on passenger side. Here(watch from about 3 min 20 sec on time scale):
Also the Blauparts kit has instructions on the order of removing and installing the bearing caps. Very important. Tightening torque for those is 7ft lbs, make sure you don't over tighten since the block is aluminum).

When you put the new palstic pads on the cam shaft chain tensioner make sure they are centered(take a look at them from the side against light, and move them to the side accordingly). You have to use some force in the process, don't be too gentle

The toughest part in this whole thing is to put the intake cam shaft sproket back in the cam chain and get the 16 links on chain distance right(with the cam chain tensioner in as well). It took me one hour. Not much room. It is much easier if you remove both cam shafts. But then take a lot of pictures to make sure you put them back in exactly the same. I mean if you remove both camshafts and the chain stays on the whole time(the blauparts video shows that) it might be easy(I didn't do it, but you have the front end out anyway); since the cam chain tensioner slides out once it is tensioned.

Don't forget TDC(engine at top dead center).
Good luck!

NEU!

I have the engine locked at TDC and the cam tool installed. Does this mean that I can go ahead and compress the tensioner and remove the camshafts on the right bank? Or am I missing a step?

indoor

This is what I wold start with: mark the cam chain and cam shafts with paint where the grooves/marks are(like rob in the first link I posted). On the other side(with the timing belt) get the cam position sensor cover off(unplug it first, then take two 10mm bolts off), then the 13mm bolt that holds the position ring. After that, work at the other end of the same intake cam shaft: loosen the cam chain tensioner, unplug it, and tension it with the special tool(3 crews on the outside of the engine block, and one inside hold the tensioner in place). As you compress the tensioner if it's real tight wait a few minutes between tightening turns. Move the cam chain tensioner to make sure it is loose. Take the bearing caps off the intake cam shaft starting at the edges(the one with the little arrow that points to the groove in the cam shaft) then the one on opposite side(by the cam shaft position sensor; this bearing cap is one long piece that covers both cam shafts). Then loosen the two midle bearing caps. To remember their exact location, write it down or take good pics of all bearing caps before removing them). Once all the bearing caps are off the intake cam shaft, try and pull it out by hand or with channel locks(grab the shaft in the rough area). AS seen it the 1.8T video you can remove the cam shaft and then you can take out the cam chain tensioner and inspect it. If it just needs pads change them. If it's toast you gotta make a decision on what type of tensioner you want to buy. Also look inside the block, inspect chain. I wouldn't remove the exhaust cam shaft until you find out what is wrong with the tensioner just to be on the safe side(and save some time). But it's up to you. I mean if you're waiting for the tensioner to come in the mail, and want to play with the exhaust cam shaft and replace that seal, go ahead. It might be easier to install the shafts and tensioner together(Blauparts video shows them getting in like butter...) You might have to take the timing belt and sproket off on the passenger side. If you do mark the t belt with paint also and the sprokets(two or more lines that go from belt to sprokets) just to make things easier on reinstalation

But, in short, to answer your queastion, yeah, you should be able to remove the cam shafts

SloopJohnB@mac.com

I don't think you'll be able to remove the intake cam with the sprocket bolted to it….but that's just me.

Interesting that you removed 4 screws holding the fan to the viscous clutch rather than removing the one nut that holds the viscous clutch to the shaft.

NEU!

I was impatient and foolishly attempted this on Friday night before your reply. I compressed the tensioner with the tool and then removed the camshaft bearing caps, incorrectly thinking that I could take everything out together. This obviously won't work because the exhaust cam is still connected to the pulley on the timing belt and as I now know a puller is required to remove it. Anyway, thinking I could compress the tensioner more I gave the tool one too many turns and broke it which uncompressed the tensioner. So now things are jammed up and look like this:



I got another tool today and so I'm going to try to give it a go tomorrow. As far as I can see nothing appears damaged. At this point I'll almost certainly have to remove the timing belt pulley which is not such a big deal since I wanted to replace the camshaft seals anyway.

I still only have around $250 invested in this car so I'm just chalking this screw-up to a valuable learning experience.