3.0 Starting Issues Possible Timing
#21
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I finally decided to work on the harness a little bit earlier, and came up with a few things. I cut away some of the harness wrap about a foot or so from the ecu connector.
I found the 4 cam sensors wire bundles and got to work. What I came up with is that the wire color for pin #2 on 3 sensors were wrong. On the pdf I was given, pin 2 on sensor G40 was labeled as yellow/black, but its really green/white, G300 was labeled as green/violet but its green/black and G301 was labeled green/white but its green/violet.
Not sure why the pdf labels were wrong. From where I split the harness loom in the pic above, I got continuity from there to all 4 cam sensor connectors, but from the split to the ecu connector, Im still not getting continuity for cam sensors G301 and G40. I have even tested each pin on the ecu connector side to the 2 sensor connectors. Its probably going to become a big mess tearing into rest of the harness closer to the ecu connectors.
I found the 4 cam sensors wire bundles and got to work. What I came up with is that the wire color for pin #2 on 3 sensors were wrong. On the pdf I was given, pin 2 on sensor G40 was labeled as yellow/black, but its really green/white, G300 was labeled as green/violet but its green/black and G301 was labeled green/white but its green/violet.
Not sure why the pdf labels were wrong. From where I split the harness loom in the pic above, I got continuity from there to all 4 cam sensor connectors, but from the split to the ecu connector, Im still not getting continuity for cam sensors G301 and G40. I have even tested each pin on the ecu connector side to the 2 sensor connectors. Its probably going to become a big mess tearing into rest of the harness closer to the ecu connectors.
#22
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Well leave it to eBahn to show wrong wire colors for the 3yr production run of the C5 3.0, sorry for that and the inconvenience for sure.
Are you physically removing the ecm connector and checking continuity: sensor connector to ecm connector, or at this point your test split to the ecm connector.
Strange one indeed.
Good Luck and Happy Holidays!
Are you physically removing the ecm connector and checking continuity: sensor connector to ecm connector, or at this point your test split to the ecm connector.
Strange one indeed.
Good Luck and Happy Holidays!
#23
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Its no big deal, just glad I found that and probably help others in the future. Ive actually tested both way to the ecu connector, from the cam sensor connector and the split I made in the harness.
#24
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Talk about a big kicker in the nuts. After doing some more work, this is what I came up with.
G301 (Passenger side sensor) is actually pin 87 on the ecu green/black, not pin 54
G300 (Passenger side sensor) pin 81 on the ecu green/violet
G40 (Driver side sensor) is actually pin 54 on the ecu green/white, not pin 87
G163 (Driver side sensor) pin 86 on the ecu green/brown
In conclusion to that, all wires are getting continuity from the sensor connector to ecu connector. Not really sure what to go from here.
G301 (Passenger side sensor) is actually pin 87 on the ecu green/black, not pin 54
G300 (Passenger side sensor) pin 81 on the ecu green/violet
G40 (Driver side sensor) is actually pin 54 on the ecu green/white, not pin 87
G163 (Driver side sensor) pin 86 on the ecu green/brown
In conclusion to that, all wires are getting continuity from the sensor connector to ecu connector. Not really sure what to go from here.
#25
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Just an idea, have you tried using output test to see if your camshaft adjusters are working?
The 4 "impulse sender camshaft" you mentioned, try swapping them maybe? part# 06C905163B
The 4 "impulse sender camshaft" you mentioned, try swapping them maybe? part# 06C905163B
Last edited by Metronet; 12-25-2013 at 08:05 AM.
#26
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How do I go about checking the output? All 4 cam sensors are brand new, and still giving me the same codes.
#27
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As much as I hate to say it as it has been mentioned before, either your timing is off or you have a F'ed up ecu "rare".
But it can happen.
Last edited by jcman; 05-12-2014 at 04:53 PM.
#28
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Whatever it may be, its just going to have to wait. Losing my job has put me in a tight spot, and not having the extra money to pay a shop to check into it. I wanted to do everything possible I could, before I have to give in and put it into a shops hands. It would be odd, that the ecu would just crap out.
#29
Whatever it may be, its just going to have to wait. Losing my job has put me in a tight spot, and not having the extra money to pay a shop to check into it. I wanted to do everything possible I could, before I have to give in and put it into a shops hands. It would be odd, that the ecu would just crap out.
So, you didn't do everything right OR, some strange static charge crept into your ECU and fried it (IMHO, I think it's the former). Yes, yes, it doesn't help to tell you didn't get something right, and chasing wiring is kind of useless exercise because, if you recall, at one point (prior to damage etc.) car WAS running fine before you tore it apart. Unless someone worked on your car, I highly doubt much has changed in how wiring is laid out. And, ripping into it, you just created another point of "potential" failure that should be factored in. I mean, how "destructive" was your testing? - if you get what I am saying here.
All you had to do was a simple diagnostic and check for voltages at pins and resistances(if any). Manual clearly outlines this procedure. Your position sensors "could be" bad but very unlikely.
That leaves one thing our friends here kept bringing up again few times: TIMING. At this point, if I were you, I'd go back and double, triple or quadruple check timing and make ultra sure that timing is NOT the issue whatsoever. Re-read everything on how to set timing properly for your engine. Do it again if you have to. But, get it absolutely right. To reset ECU, pull the battery + out for a minute or 2.
I am not being rude. I feel for you with job situation etc. Been there, done that! Sometimes, you overlook the most obvious. So, it's time to go back and get it right.
{playing good detective here} Did you check to see if the engine flooded ? ?
I recently posted couple docs reg. cps sensor... :
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...3&d=1388005146
Ignition coil checking (just in case if you needed it):
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...4&d=1388005334
Last edited by tester123; 12-26-2013 at 09:00 AM.
#30
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Seems like you've been doing everything right so far; I mean, you replied positively to all questions asked, you are working hard, but the car is not starting.
So, you didn't do everything right OR, some strange static charge crept into your ECU and fried it (IMHO, I think it's the former). Yes, yes, it doesn't help to tell you didn't get something right, and chasing wiring is kind of useless exercise because, if you recall, at one point (prior to damage etc.) car WAS running fine before you tore it apart. Unless someone worked on your car, I highly doubt much has changed in how wiring is laid out. And, ripping into it, you just created another point of "potential" failure that should be factored in. I mean, how "destructive" was your testing? - if you get what I am saying here.
All you had to do was a simple diagnostic and check for voltages at pins and resistances(if any). Manual clearly outlines this procedure. Your position sensors "could be" bad but very unlikely.
That leaves one thing our friends here kept bringing up again few times: TIMING. At this point, if I were you, I'd go back and double, triple or quadruple check timing and make ultra sure that timing is NOT the issue whatsoever. Re-read everything on how to set timing properly for your engine. Do it again if you have to. But, get it absolutely right. To reset ECU, pull the battery + out for a minute or 2.
I am not being rude. I feel for you with job situation etc. Been there, done that! Sometimes, you overlook the most obvious. So, it's time to go back and get it right.
{playing good detective here} Did you check to see if the engine flooded ? ?
I recently posted couple docs reg. cps sensor... :
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...3&d=1388005146
Ignition coil checking (just in case if you needed it):
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...4&d=1388005334
So, you didn't do everything right OR, some strange static charge crept into your ECU and fried it (IMHO, I think it's the former). Yes, yes, it doesn't help to tell you didn't get something right, and chasing wiring is kind of useless exercise because, if you recall, at one point (prior to damage etc.) car WAS running fine before you tore it apart. Unless someone worked on your car, I highly doubt much has changed in how wiring is laid out. And, ripping into it, you just created another point of "potential" failure that should be factored in. I mean, how "destructive" was your testing? - if you get what I am saying here.
All you had to do was a simple diagnostic and check for voltages at pins and resistances(if any). Manual clearly outlines this procedure. Your position sensors "could be" bad but very unlikely.
That leaves one thing our friends here kept bringing up again few times: TIMING. At this point, if I were you, I'd go back and double, triple or quadruple check timing and make ultra sure that timing is NOT the issue whatsoever. Re-read everything on how to set timing properly for your engine. Do it again if you have to. But, get it absolutely right. To reset ECU, pull the battery + out for a minute or 2.
I am not being rude. I feel for you with job situation etc. Been there, done that! Sometimes, you overlook the most obvious. So, it's time to go back and get it right.
{playing good detective here} Did you check to see if the engine flooded ? ?
I recently posted couple docs reg. cps sensor... :
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...3&d=1388005146
Ignition coil checking (just in case if you needed it):
https://forums.audiworld.com/attachm...4&d=1388005334