4.2 Cam adjuster replaced by dealer, still have a CEL
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Hello, I had my bank 1 cam adjuster replaced at an Audi dealer. New genuine Audi part was put in. I still have the code though and the check engine light is still on. Talking to the tech, it sounded like the code was something along the lines of not communicating with the computer ( I need to go and get the exact code). Could the new unit be bad or should I look into the wiring harness or something of that nature? Car is a 2002 A6 4.2 AWN engine code. Thanks
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I pulled the codes using an Actron Pocket Reader. I don't know if this will work correctly or if I need a VAG-COM? Code it read is P0022. Now just to recap the dealer changed the cam adjuster on the drivers side head (hygraulic adjuster on the front of the head). I was able to see the car disassembled, cams out etc and still have the old adjuster in the box with PN info as 077-109-088-P. The old part looks brand new and not worn at all on the pad. After reassembly with a new timing belt kit, the CEL was still on.
Car runs good, idles pretty well most of the time but I do notice a slight miss. Can feel it slightly when sitting in the drivers seat and see it slightly on the tachometer needle.
Also notice what I think is a tapping noise in drivers side head. Its not the same sound as all of the solenoids clicking, it sounds more solid. It's not loud per say, but it can be detected with the hood closed and is most noticeable when walking around the drivers side.
Last but not least, I do feel a late surge of power when winding it out a bit. At maybe about 5000 rpm the car is pulling ok but there is a point where it just feels like it gets a tail wind and picks up 50 horsepower. Is this normal or could it be attributed to cam timing issues?
Thoughts? I will get a VAG scan tool if it will help.
Car runs good, idles pretty well most of the time but I do notice a slight miss. Can feel it slightly when sitting in the drivers seat and see it slightly on the tachometer needle.
Also notice what I think is a tapping noise in drivers side head. Its not the same sound as all of the solenoids clicking, it sounds more solid. It's not loud per say, but it can be detected with the hood closed and is most noticeable when walking around the drivers side.
Last but not least, I do feel a late surge of power when winding it out a bit. At maybe about 5000 rpm the car is pulling ok but there is a point where it just feels like it gets a tail wind and picks up 50 horsepower. Is this normal or could it be attributed to cam timing issues?
Thoughts? I will get a VAG scan tool if it will help.
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I have this same problem, I replaced both cam chain tensioned and at first I was getting P1522 and some misfire codes, I moved some coil packs around and now P0022 is the code I get. I have the same thing where it suddenly has a lot of power at about 5200 rpm. The only thing that happens at that rpm that I know of is that the 3 way variable length intake goes into stage 3. What did you do to fix yours?
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I have this same problem, I replaced both cam chain tensioned and at first I was getting P1522 and some misfire codes, I moved some coil packs around and now P0022 is the code I get. I have the same thing where it suddenly has a lot of power at about 5200 rpm. The only thing that happens at that rpm that I know of is that the 3 way variable length intake goes into stage 3. What did you do to fix yours?
Anyway, P0002 is overretarded cam timing, bank 2. driver side.
Bank 1 is the side with #1 cylinder, audi v8 #1 is on passenger side, #2 is on driver side (North America). V6 have #1 on driver side, etc.
As you might have noted, the original poster never responded or closed out the thread; my guess is because a dealer did the cam adjuster replacement he took it back to the dealer and the dealer fixed the problem.
In your case it's probably the cam adjuster for the P0002 and possibly frozen intake manifold flaps for the surge at 5200. (look for broken links between the vacuum motors and the flap rod torque arms at the front of the engine…you'll have to remove the middle plastic engine cover to look.
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#8
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When I saw this thread today I was checking the p/n's the OP had listed & I was thinking he had tensioners on wrong side too. But when Sloop noted this was 5 yr old thread I flushed my reply.
Easy way to check is to get p/ns from ECStuning & verify p/ns on your tensioners are on the correct side. Look alike, fit alike, don't work alike.
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Got them switched, took about 5 hours. Runs great now. I did verify the numbers with ecs tuning to verify they were backwards. Now it pulls hard everywhere, not just above 5200 rpm.
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