socalclimber

2002 A6 4.2 75k miles - replacing stuck thermostat...and a few other things.

Doing TB/WP/VC gasket/cam seals/coolant pipe. I'm getting slight oil leaks at cam tensioners and 1 cam plug, but I figure I better do ALL the cam seals as 4Driver4 suggests (since they probably will start leaking if I don't change them!). Actual cam seals look pretty good (now).

For those of you that have done cam tensioner seals/gasket AND the cam seals at hall sender (cam position sensor) and gear end, what is the best way to do that?

Remove both cams, chains, and cam tensioner as a unit, then replace seals?

I was thinking of unbolting hall sender (to get to that seal), but as soon as I started moving bolt, intake cam started to move, so I stopped. Doesn't look like there's any place to hold intake cam to unbolt hall sender bolt, then later to retorque it.

Can you do it with cams in place by just unbolting some of bearing caps, then replacing the seals?

I've read tech article on 2.7 VC/cam tensioner seals by absolutcq20v and he lifted tensioners up just enough to replace tensioner gasket & half moon.

The pics are where I am now, contemplating removing cams. It looks like a tight space to work near firewall on both sides.

A6Gary

You've got a real clean engine! Re: removing cams, I don't believe that you have to do that to replace the cam seals. Audi AG has special tools they use to R&R the camshaft main seals, and the cam tensioner seals can replaced without removing the cams (at least on the V6 engines). I haven't replaced camshaft seals myself on any of the Audis/VWs that I have owned, but I have read the Bentley Manuals that describes replaciong the cam seals, and people here have posted how to replace the tensioneer seals w/o R&R the camshafts.

socalclimber

A6Gary,

Thanks for your 2 cents. I haven't done the cam chain tensioner gaskets/half moon plug, or any of the seals before, but I'll get it done.

I was hoping someone who has done all the seals/gaskets would enlighten me with their wisdom, or what NOT to do!

It was getting late last night, so I was getting burned out. Back at it again tonight after work.

NJA642

I didn't need to remove the cams to do any of the seals. Used a pick & needle nose as others suggested to remove the tensioner seals. Rocking the crank back and forth a few degrees once the tensioner is compressed really helped give a little more slack in the chain.... same idea as what guys do in 6th gear w/ a manual trans. Tensioner lifts up enough to get the old seals out and new ones in. Don't worry about the intake cam rotating a little bit when things are compressed as long as the chain is on the sprockets.

There are some good notes around here regarding the coolant pipe. Good luck & have fun!

socalclimber

Ian and A6Gary,

Good advice, I did passenger side front cam seals, tensioner gasket/half moon, and rear cam plug. Rocking the intake cam very gently while slowly tightening tensioner tool worked great--I took off cam position sensor and used the 13mm bolt that holds rotor to end of cam to move intake cam (as TB is already off).

I really took my time and cleaned everything meticulously, and everything felt solid going back together.

I also found this post by OCDBoy on 02-25-2006 which helped a great deal:
Cam Adjuster Seal Update: One completed today (BWW)
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...tensioner+seal

I wish I would have found that post earlier...it's not in the Tech Article section, but it should be.

Feeling good at this point, now on to driver's side seals, then rest of job (TB/WP/coolant pipe/oil cooler seals). I found the write-ups on coolant pipe/oil cooler and TB jobs.

I think I will leave the front crank seal alone. Thanks again!