A6 2.8L V6 Catalytic converter replacement
03-03-2011, 12:32 PM
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A6 2.8L V6 Catalytic converter replacement
Hey guys
Audi A6 2.8L ATQ 2000
I need to change the Catalytic Converter on my car. I have one pipe that goes from the engine to the muffler. Do you know of any DIY with pictures that will guide me thru the Job. I did a lot of searching and I came across few things here and there but for different models. Please Help…..
I just moved to a new area, few friends recommended a mechanic that told me he only worked on an Audi once
and the funny thing is that, I heard that before from the muffler guy that f**ed my CAT when he was welding a new flex pipe.
So I decided to do it myself, please help. The wife said don’t do it and I am trying to prove her wrong.
Audi A6 2.8L ATQ 2000
I need to change the Catalytic Converter on my car. I have one pipe that goes from the engine to the muffler. Do you know of any DIY with pictures that will guide me thru the Job. I did a lot of searching and I came across few things here and there but for different models. Please Help…..
I just moved to a new area, few friends recommended a mechanic that told me he only worked on an Audi once
and the funny thing is that, I heard that before from the muffler guy that f**ed my CAT when he was welding a new flex pipe. So I decided to do it myself, please help. The wife said don’t do it
and I am trying to prove her wrong.
03-04-2011, 04:44 PM
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Hi, I had bad post cat (downstream) bank 1 and 2. Meaning according to VAG and emissions that I had two bad cats. Didn't want to get new ones.
I took out both downstream sensors, soaked them in 93 gas overnight, brushed the crap out of them, and guess what -- the codes are gone.
A6 with 125k miles and original cats, but no codes at all and at 500 miles since the "cleaning" of the 02 sensors.
Good luck.
I took out both downstream sensors, soaked them in 93 gas overnight, brushed the crap out of them, and guess what -- the codes are gone.
A6 with 125k miles and original cats, but no codes at all and at 500 miles since the "cleaning" of the 02 sensors.
Good luck.
03-04-2011, 06:17 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Some people have had good luck burning the sensors clean...I've used a MAPP torch (not oxyacetlyene...might really damage it) and turned them red hot for a few seconds. Then check the voltage output when cold and when reheated with the torch.
03-04-2011, 06:19 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
The easiest if not the least expensive way to to replace it with an OEM audi cat...big bux. Simply look at the new part and replace it. The parts guy might say you could use a few new nuts..special high temp distorted oval nuts IIRC and/or new bolts...check out with the parts guy.
03-05-2011, 06:47 PM
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Thanks guys for responses, I started to lose hope. I wish I had posted this thread before I bought a BOSAL Cat with a down pipe. Regarding sensors, I have changed one and I have an inttermitten issue on my B2 S1 code P1131. I might try some of your recommendations there. But I think it might be craked because it’s inttermitten. I believe when the sensor is hot the cramic expands leaving an open circuit, but when it cools down it’s closed circuit with no error. It’s just a throught… I need to varify first. So what you recommend given that I have a new BOSAL CAT? how to go by installing it. I got under the car today, I don't know how to access the 3 polts of the down pipe?
03-06-2011, 05:28 AM
#6
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From on top through the engine compartment? Might have to move/remove a few components to get a shot at it with a long extension and a swivel socket.
03-07-2011, 05:33 AM
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03-07-2011, 10:02 AM
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no pics, but if you are flexible and good with a wrench it is very quick and easy, if not, it may take a few minutes. the hardest part it finding the correct position so you can reach the bolts.
the top bolt on the flange you must reach from up top. you will need a wrench I think 12mm but it may be a 13. remove the air box and reach down to find the flange, the o2 sensor is in the way so only a wrench will fit, or possibly a 1/4 inch ratchet.
then the one nut you will reach thru the fender well, remove the wheel and you can easily reach it with a 1/4 ratchet and 12mm socket, the other nut from under the car, again with a 1/4 ratchet. (do this one first because you might be able to reach the others if you have long arms or flexible fingers) I can pull these bolts in 10-20 minutes only because I have done enough of them. their isn't enough room to fit a 3/8 ratchet so don't bother, if you do it will just take 10x longer to do it.
the top bolt on the flange you must reach from up top. you will need a wrench I think 12mm but it may be a 13. remove the air box and reach down to find the flange, the o2 sensor is in the way so only a wrench will fit, or possibly a 1/4 inch ratchet.
then the one nut you will reach thru the fender well, remove the wheel and you can easily reach it with a 1/4 ratchet and 12mm socket, the other nut from under the car, again with a 1/4 ratchet. (do this one first because you might be able to reach the others if you have long arms or flexible fingers) I can pull these bolts in 10-20 minutes only because I have done enough of them. their isn't enough room to fit a 3/8 ratchet so don't bother, if you do it will just take 10x longer to do it.
03-07-2011, 08:13 PM
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no pics, but if you are flexible and good with a wrench it is very quick and easy, if not, it may take a few minutes. the hardest part it finding the correct position so you can reach the bolts.
the top bolt on the flange you must reach from up top. you will need a wrench I think 12mm but it may be a 13. remove the air box and reach down to find the flange, the o2 sensor is in the way so only a wrench will fit, or possibly a 1/4 inch ratchet.
then the one nut you will reach thru the fender well, remove the wheel and you can easily reach it with a 1/4 ratchet and 12mm socket, the other nut from under the car, again with a 1/4 ratchet. (do this one first because you might be able to reach the others if you have long arms or flexible fingers) I can pull these bolts in 10-20 minutes only because I have done enough of them. their isn't enough room to fit a 3/8 ratchet so don't bother, if you do it will just take 10x longer to do it.
the top bolt on the flange you must reach from up top. you will need a wrench I think 12mm but it may be a 13. remove the air box and reach down to find the flange, the o2 sensor is in the way so only a wrench will fit, or possibly a 1/4 inch ratchet.
then the one nut you will reach thru the fender well, remove the wheel and you can easily reach it with a 1/4 ratchet and 12mm socket, the other nut from under the car, again with a 1/4 ratchet. (do this one first because you might be able to reach the others if you have long arms or flexible fingers) I can pull these bolts in 10-20 minutes only because I have done enough of them. their isn't enough room to fit a 3/8 ratchet so don't bother, if you do it will just take 10x longer to do it.
03-08-2011, 06:15 AM
#10
there is enough contortion involved to just reach the bolts let alone take a picture while doing it.
As stated the top bolt can be reached from the top of the engine, if it is the driver side move the coolant tank out of the way for more room, if the passenger side move the air intake tubing. The other two bolts can be removed through the wheel well after removing the wheel on the appropriate side.
I know you want pictures but there is not any specific way to do this. There are 3 bolts, you should be able to see them from underneath the car, through the wheel well and underneath the car, however you can contort yourself to get them off is the 'correct' way to do it.
It is NOT easy to get the downpipe out. Yes it is only 3 bolts but it takes a certain amount of tolerance and ingenuity to maneuver everything to get it out (and back in). This is nowhere near as complicated as a timing belt change but if you aren't comfortable doing that you may want to find someone else to either do this job for you or give you a hand.
As stated the top bolt can be reached from the top of the engine, if it is the driver side move the coolant tank out of the way for more room, if the passenger side move the air intake tubing. The other two bolts can be removed through the wheel well after removing the wheel on the appropriate side.
I know you want pictures but there is not any specific way to do this. There are 3 bolts, you should be able to see them from underneath the car, through the wheel well and underneath the car, however you can contort yourself to get them off is the 'correct' way to do it.
It is NOT easy to get the downpipe out. Yes it is only 3 bolts but it takes a certain amount of tolerance and ingenuity to maneuver everything to get it out (and back in). This is nowhere near as complicated as a timing belt change but if you aren't comfortable doing that you may want to find someone else to either do this job for you or give you a hand.