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A6 Trouble codes

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Old 11-27-2002, 12:03 PM
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Default A6 Trouble codes

Hi,
I need some help with a 97 A6 2.8 2 valve that's driving me crazy.
We have this used car dealer that brings all of his cars to our shop, He sold this Audi to some lady. After she bought the car the check engine light came on. He told her not to worry about it, He would get it taken care of. When she dropped the car back to him he took it out somewhere. As he was driving (according to him) the car just died. He said there were no warning lights or anything it just died. He had it towed off the highway to the nearest shop. They told him that the head gaskets were blown and gave him a price. He told them to not do anything and called us. We sent our truck down to pick this car up and we checked it out. The car cranked over fast like there was no compression. As there was an aftermarket warranty on this car we had to wait to get approval to open it up.
Once the warranty company gave the OK I took the car apart to check things out.
When I removed the valve covers the plastic shields underneath were melted. I don't mean just de formed melted I mean completely melted down on the cams/springs. Just like if you put them under a torch and melted them into a blob.
There are two flexible plastic hoses that come off the back of the valve covers and go into the air box right before the throttle valve. These were also melted in spots.
When I got the heads off there were 2 melted pistons and the block was also melted in those two cylinders.
We got approval to replace the engine with a junkyard unit.
When I was swapping parts from the old motor to the "new" one I noticed that the cam sensor on the back of the driver side head was also melted and so was the crank sensor that goes into the block. These were replaced. I also replaced the front two HO2 sensors and both knock sensors.
I got the thing running and thought all was well. After delivering the car to the customer, They had a complaint of the shift indicator not working. Once I saw where the switch was I told the boss he was on his own with that one. He replaced it and the indicator worked OK.
A few weeks later the Check engine light came on again. Since the lady is now paranoid about the light we had to tow the car back on.
The codes were for #2 Cyl. Misfire and codes P1101/17509 HO2S voltage too low/air leak bank one sensor one. And P1106/17514 HO2S voltage too low/air leak bank two sensor one.
I found a crack in the #2 Cyl coil pack. I replaced the coils and re set the light. I thought all of the codes were related to the coils.
I road tested the car for two days and the light stayed off and the car ran great. I gave it to her again. After 2-3 weeks the CE light came on again and we towed the car again. The two codes came back.
At our shop we have both Mitchell On Demand and Alldata programs on out PC.
I tried to do the tests for these codes using both of these programs but. They are both telling me that I need to check continuity between the HO2 pin 4 and ground. The problem is there are only three wires on the HO2 sensors and there is no pin 4. Both of the O2S on this car have 2 plugs, the first has 2 white wires for the heater and the second plug has 1 black wire. None of these wires have continuity to ground. Can anyone tell me how to fix these codes? I don't want to loose this guy's business but he is getting mad that the lady keeps calling him looking for her car. I checked for air leaks in the exhaust and there are none. I repaired the two hoses that were melted. This didn't help either. The car now is running like either it's running out of fuel, the TPS is bad or the Mass Air is going bad. It looses power and won't rev. A second later all is fine. I can't do the tests because the sensors in the tests are not the ones on the car. Even the pictures in Mitchell and Alldata don't match what's on the car. I checked fuel pressure and it's in speck.
This is driving me mad. I am the only one on the shop that understands electric/electronics so these kinds of problems always get dumped on me, but I don't have too much experience on Audi computer engine control. Are there any Audi techs here that can give me some help? Are there any other forums I should post this to?
As I said the customer is getting mad, I'm getting mad, and I need to get this car fixed and back to them ASAP. Even though the used car guy is the one who melted half the damn car, It's becoming an "ever since you did the motor" kind of thing.

Thanks,
Mike
Old 11-27-2002, 12:18 PM
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No shot at you...but....if there is an aftermarket warenty...ship it off to an audi dealer
Old 11-27-2002, 12:21 PM
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Wow. I hope someone here can help you. Most of us can barely change the oil.
Old 11-27-2002, 12:31 PM
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Holy Cow! Talk about a nightmare. This has got to be money loser for your shop.
Old 11-27-2002, 12:54 PM
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Default Re: A6 Trouble codes

Mike,
I think you've got the wrong audience here. You *might* get more help on the quattro list found at www.audifans.com. Join that list and ask your question; there are quite a few mechanics on that list.

My Lord, but I just feel terrible for the woman that bought that car. That's a real used car horror story.<ul><li><a href="http://www.audifans.com">Audifans.com</a></li></ul>
Old 11-27-2002, 01:26 PM
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Default This board doesn't know the 12v....try here

<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/">100/A6</a></li></ul>
Old 11-27-2002, 03:41 PM
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Default I think you need to get an Audi manual from Bentley Publishers to diagnose this.

Check out www. bentleypublishers.com . The cost is about $75, I think, for a shop manual on CD rom. Beats pulling your hair out, though. I don't happen to have a CD for a '97.
Old 11-27-2002, 03:47 PM
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Default The '01 has a 4-pin O2 - pins 1,2,3 are grouped together; pin 4 is off to the side.

Sounds like the ones you have for the '97 are different. The best thing I can suggest is getting the Audi manual for the '97 A6.
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