About To Start Timing Belt and Valve Cover Gasket Repair
#1
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UPDATE: Put 17,271 miles on the car since the timing belt swap and still running. However I continue to have a slight smell of burning oil ever time I pull into the garage.
I just received my timing belt enhanced kit, valve cover gasket enhanced kit, and tool rental kit from Bluaparts (BLAUfergnugen Inc). Let me tell you I'm very impressed with their packaging and tool rental kit (see pics). They even included gloves, anti-seize, Loctite, and sealant. The package was 44lbs and shipping was only $14.99. Should be an interesting weekend for me.
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair001.jpg)
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I just received my timing belt enhanced kit, valve cover gasket enhanced kit, and tool rental kit from Bluaparts (BLAUfergnugen Inc). Let me tell you I'm very impressed with their packaging and tool rental kit (see pics). They even included gloves, anti-seize, Loctite, and sealant. The package was 44lbs and shipping was only $14.99. Should be an interesting weekend for me.
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair001.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair004.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair003.jpg)
Last edited by AR15Texan; 06-18-2011 at 02:26 PM.
#2
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You will be having hours of work ahead of you. Hopefully you can take your time so you don't make any "tired" mistakes like I did (left bolts in the nuts that connect the lower fender to the carrier and wondered why it would not go back together nicely - 1:30 A.M.; when putting the passenger side valve cover back on I did not notice that I included the heat shield at bottom and wondered why I had an oil leak - 2:00 A.M.)
You will not need the seal pullers except for the crank. Cam seals come out and go in quite easily when you take the cams out.
Helps to have a 3/8 drive, long head 6mm allen to reach the block coolant drain plug if you are going that route.
Watch out for the crispy plastic and rubber vacuum lines and the secondary air injection hoses. Age and heat are not their friend.
You will not need the seal pullers except for the crank. Cam seals come out and go in quite easily when you take the cams out.
Helps to have a 3/8 drive, long head 6mm allen to reach the block coolant drain plug if you are going that route.
Watch out for the crispy plastic and rubber vacuum lines and the secondary air injection hoses. Age and heat are not their friend.
#3
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I used the same kits and am pleased with them, one thing i regret not doin was the front engine snub mount, mine was kinda chewed up and its like 15 bux from ECS. worth replacing at TB time.
#6
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The timing kit came with two cam seals and a crankshaft seal and then the valve cover kits comes with four more cam seals.
Last edited by AR15Texan; 04-10-2010 at 01:58 PM.
#7
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Well I spent all yesterday afternoon and night wiring up my fluorescent lights as I did not want to attempt this one in the dark garage. After two and half years I finally installed 3x 8' dual tube fluorescent lights around the perimeter of the garage. What a difference it makes. I was hoping to start Friday night but didn't.
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#8
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I laugh because I could never understand why the would send the timing belt kit out with only two seals. ;-)
#9
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Yikes found some oil in the flexible duct after the mass air sensor. None was down the duct just at the junction between the flexible duct and the Y-pipe to the turbos. There was a film of oil around the mouth of the Y-pipe too. I hope this is not a sign of turbo failure.
ETA: Oil is coming from the what I believe is the PCV valve on the driver's side rear that plumbs into the Y-pipe.
I can see oil wetness around the perimeter of the passenger side valve covers. Also the sensor or adjuster at the back of the passenger side cylinder head is coated in oil and grime.
Virtually all the hoses are connected with the Band-It crimp style clamps. Do you cut these out and replace with regular pipe clamps? Can you purchased the Band-It clamps at the local auto parts place?
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair005a.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair006.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair007.jpg)
ETA: Oil is coming from the what I believe is the PCV valve on the driver's side rear that plumbs into the Y-pipe.
I can see oil wetness around the perimeter of the passenger side valve covers. Also the sensor or adjuster at the back of the passenger side cylinder head is coated in oil and grime.
Virtually all the hoses are connected with the Band-It crimp style clamps. Do you cut these out and replace with regular pipe clamps? Can you purchased the Band-It clamps at the local auto parts place?
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair005a.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair006.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair007.jpg)
![](http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/TimingBeltRepair008.jpg)
Last edited by AR15Texan; 04-10-2010 at 05:47 PM.
#10
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The timing belt kit only comes with two seals because you can only swap out the right (passenger side) cam seals. On the left (driver's side) the cam seals are in the back (closest to the firewall). Up front on the left side is the cam tensioner telfon seal and the end plug. So the kit should come with two cam seals and an end plug.