suzukiracer

need OD (outside diameter....) and length of tip that goes into crank to lock it down when threaded in block

im cheap im just gonna turn one up on the lathe outta a 18 X1.5 mm bolt or mild steel bar stock and thread it whichever is easier

SloopJohnB@mac.com

If no one knows just measure it. Use a number drill shank to get the diameter or an inside hole measurement tool such as a hole gauge:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

You can easily measure the depth with any vernier caliper with the wire sticking out the back end. The angle of the cone isn't particularly important.

suzukiracer

i was gonna use these

i have some snap gauges (telescoping id gauges) that go down to 5/16.....i had stuck a 1/4 drive extention with a small shank around it just before the actual 1/4 square drive through the hole in the block and into the hole in the crank and it had a little play so i think the 5/16 gauge might fit

otherwise, ill just keep stepping up drill bits

was just hoping someone had the tool handy and could just hit it with a set of digital or veneer calipers and get me a measurement cause the car is not at the machine shop and will require more driving around tommorrow

but definitely thanks for the idea and reply

suzukiracer

one other question, if you've had your hands on the 3391 cam locking bar tool, which im gonna fab up too, can you tell me if the four pins (although 2 different sizes) are simply in a straight centerline? i assume they are from all the pics they appear that way

i intend to take a flat bar of steel stock and duplicate one with pins turned of mild steel and welded in place and holes drilled/bored for the cam sprocket bolts

when putting on my ALL new timing belt parts kit and finding the wings dont line up straight, i assume from a previous slightly stretched belt????, i figured i would need that tool to make it perfect, though i dont see the reason for the big bends to offset all but the ends of the bar as a level went right across my cam pulleys but i did disconnect a hose that went up to the manifold that otherwise would have been in the way

suzukiracer

as far as not needing a bend in the bar....level went flush across engine (pulleys and holes in wings) but not straight through center of all four holes and the two cam pulley bolts

i thought about just making the crank lock tool and fudging by popping a pulley off its taper on the cam and turning the cam till i could run a level through all 4 holes and the center of the cam pulley bolts but that could be several degrees off

been using slotted adjustable cam sprockets and building dohc dragbike engines for almost 2 decades now and just a hair of rotation is a few degrees

5v/cyl

What engine is the for?

suzukiracer

2000 2.8 v6 30 valve

5v/cyl

In that case you could just buy the locking tool cheap: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-AU...ht_2785wt_1165

Then use your skills and make this: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth....8-Timing-Belt

suzukiracer

thanks so much for the cam bar diagram....save me a bunch of time transfer punching and center to center measuring stuff

anyway....in checking his measurements while marking the steel bar i'm coming up with for the bottom measurement 26 3/8" from centerline of outside wing hole to center of other side (cam) outer wing hole....he has 26 7/8 written at the top for the total measurement for that overall dimension

im pretty good with math but can always make mistakes

if you see something i didnt please let me know

i dont want to start drilling to i know

i put my project on hold till tommorrow wasnt feeling good

but i can always measure wings and then take out center bolt and measure across cams and find total distance from center of cam bolt hole to center of other cam bolt hole and refugire from there....

check it out...see if you see what i see PLEASE

5v/cyl

I haven't made the bar myself so can't say if the dimensions are true or not. Post back how it works though as I am thinking about making one in the future.