Anyone in MA/NH have experience with brake pad installation (HP2)??
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Just booked an appointment with my Indy for next Tuesday (earliest available). I'm honestly not sure if I can go that much longer, the brakes have begun to make an AWFUL grinding noise...
#2
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It is an easy DIY.
Step 1 - jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Step 2 - undo the brake pad spring clamp
Step 3 - disconnect the sensor wire
Step 4 - slide old pads out
Step 5 - push pistons out with screwdriver
Step 5 - take off film to expose adhesive backing on new pads and slide them in place
Step 6 - reconnect sensor wire
Step 7 - re-engage clamp, mount wheel, lower car, do the other side the same way and voila! Done, for free!
Pads are about $100 at the dealer.
Step 1 - jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Step 2 - undo the brake pad spring clamp
Step 3 - disconnect the sensor wire
Step 4 - slide old pads out
Step 5 - push pistons out with screwdriver
Step 5 - take off film to expose adhesive backing on new pads and slide them in place
Step 6 - reconnect sensor wire
Step 7 - re-engage clamp, mount wheel, lower car, do the other side the same way and voila! Done, for free!
Pads are about $100 at the dealer.
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If you need to do the rotors it's only slightly more difficult.
The link is for a B5 S4 but they are the same brakes. There is another FAQ for the A6 in the tech session. Same procedure, different pictures.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel39.shtml">Pads only replacement</a></li></ul>
The link is for a B5 S4 but they are the same brakes. There is another FAQ for the A6 in the tech session. Same procedure, different pictures.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel39.shtml">Pads only replacement</a></li></ul>
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turn the steering wheel away from the side you are working on, it is easy to get at the pads and pistons, but it is difficult to remove the wheel. If youhave jack stands, you can first remove the wheel and then turn the steering wheel...don't do that on a jack alone.
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I've decided on EBC Greenstuff pads from thepartsbin.com....
Or, do you think I should go OEM @ dealer??
Also Don't you need a special tool to do it?
Or, do you think I should go OEM @ dealer??
Also Don't you need a special tool to do it?
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When the pads get worn below the pad material, the metallic pad backing scars the rotors. Is the grinding noise coming from the front, the back, or yes? :P The front pads have wear sensors that should provide warning well in advance of rotor damage. The rears do not, however.
Also, when resetting the piston, the screwdriver method works well, but if you don't have a flatheas screwdriver (ummm?) grab the edge of the rotor opposite the caliper and (assuming it isn't siezed to the hub) pull on it steadilly until the pistons are all the way reset...this also allows the new, thicker pads to fit into the caliper.
As others have said, its EASY...Good luck!
Also, when resetting the piston, the screwdriver method works well, but if you don't have a flatheas screwdriver (ummm?) grab the edge of the rotor opposite the caliper and (assuming it isn't siezed to the hub) pull on it steadilly until the pistons are all the way reset...this also allows the new, thicker pads to fit into the caliper.
As others have said, its EASY...Good luck!
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Also, there is a scraping noise coming from the front passenger side when driving under 15 mph (without applying the brakes)
Any idea what that could be?
Another member suggested it could be an "overhauling caliper".
Any idea what that could be?
Another member suggested it could be an "overhauling caliper".