Mastertekb

Ye zer. Ill try it again. Thanks again

jcman

Not sure about your description or verbage, when you loosen all of the bolts the "slack" is there when set the exhaust cams its just an adjustment, when all four bolts are tight slack is just a memory, like gone.

Mastertekb

Well by slack I meen if I didn't get the adjuster completely turned clockwise. If there was a tiny bit left in the adjuster bc I didn't have the proper socket. Will the adjuster valve compensate for it or will the cam turn past the acceptable range of travel.

jcman

When the cam locks are secured the cams will not move at all, we loosen all cam bolts to free-up the movement of the cam belt sprockets or cogs to r&r the belt for the tensioner to take up that slack, meanwhile the crank and cams are locked in position, the most important part now is to adjust the exhaust timing as described "With the Proper Socket" starting with the drivers side first cw to 7.5ftlb then the pass side turning the same direction, tighten all four cam bolts and remove the cam/crank lock.

There is really no other way to do this that I'm aware of, I helped my friend with his 3.0 A4 in July with no problems at all and I will be doing this on my 3.0 A6 this year.

One notable issue that can arise with the 3.0 is premature cam lobe wear,
with your v-covers off take a good look at the exhaust cam lobes.

Mastertekb

ok. i just redid the timing again. it took me a while to find that socket. this time i locked the crank, locked the cams, lossened the cam bolts.took the socket and turned it all the way clockwise till it stopped. then the other side. released the belt tension and checked the adjustment with the socket again. tightened all cam bolts. released the cam locks, released the crank lock bolt. put eveything back together. fired it up, reved up and ran smooth for a second or two then started surging again. pulled the codes. all four cam positioning sensor range codes and a random misfire. the timing is dead on perfect. it runs so smooth at the top of the surge and at the bottom of the surge. i give up.what is wrong with this thing.

Mastertekb

do all the cps wires run independently to the ecu. or do they run together anywhere in the harness. what r the odds of me having a bad break in my harness. i have 5v and good ground going to each sensor.i was ohming out some wires. and at the crank position sensor. the blue wire wasnt getting any connection through the plug. so i cut off that plug from the other wire harness. and soldered in on. re tested that wire and it was getting good connection. cleared the codes. started it up. and it still surged but instead of instantly throwing the codes. it actually took about 15 sec. but then it still threw the 4 cps codes again. prolly irelivant but i figuered ide throw that out there. if my crank position sensor was goin bad would it throw the cps codes? i can unplug the crank or engine speed sensor and it wont start and gives me a engine speed sensor code. so i think its working fine. but the car does take forever to start. after it runs for a few cycles it starts pretty easy. not right up but u only gotta crank it for about 5 secs at that point.

ddillenger

Did you remove the flywheel at any time?

Mastertekb

yes i pulled the flexplate off the old motor and put it onto the new one.

i just checked the wiring and ohmed the signal wires from the sensors to the ecu. and they ohmed out ok. so there isnt a break in the wire.

jcman

I looked at the four codes again and noticed that they are intake cam related to G40 and G163 cps's not exhaust.

I also noticed that the cam adjuster valves can not be inter-changed because they are dedicated as intake or exhaust only by internal design, even though they are physically the same by fitment. Just so you know.


Vagcom is really the tool you need at this point

Mastertekb

I have the ones off the old motor. Should I swap those adjusters over and see what happens I also did find a small vacuum leak the o ring that is in the intake tube that seals to the throttle body isn't fat enough. Gonna fix it tomorrow. My question is a small air leak like that would it cause the surge and most of all will it richen up the mixture so much that I get a lot of I burnt fuel comin into my exhaust