Brake Replacement
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So I'm planning on replacing the pads and rotors on my 2000 audi a6 2.7T. I posted a few weeks back asking for some tips. Recently I removed the front wheel and measured my rotors. They are 321 mm x 30 mm with an ~17mm hat height. I have the lucas hp2 calipers. I would like to put ceramic pads on this car as I'm really sick of dealing with the dust. My only issue is finding a set that works. I found these pads from akebono (Akebono EUR839)on some sites, while others say they do not fit my car. Can anyone confirm if these will fit? Also does anyone know if these have the oval shaped wear sensor or the elongated D shape?
I also have a question about the rotor replacement. Does anyone have any links to a guide on the removal of this caliper? I found this link regarding the pad change for an hp2 caliper from an a8
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...rakestwin.html
I just cannot figure out how to remove the caliper. In the guide detailing the brake system I found online here
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5...akeSystems.pdf
It seems like the bold labeled 5 on page 37 is responsible for holding the caliper in position. Does anyone know what the head size of this bolt is?
I also have a question about the rotor replacement. Does anyone have any links to a guide on the removal of this caliper? I found this link regarding the pad change for an hp2 caliper from an a8
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...rakestwin.html
I just cannot figure out how to remove the caliper. In the guide detailing the brake system I found online here
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5...akeSystems.pdf
It seems like the bold labeled 5 on page 37 is responsible for holding the caliper in position. Does anyone know what the head size of this bolt is?
#2
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It is those two large ribbed bolts (#5 in the dwg)
Had mine off a week ago & the hardline is in the way of the top bolt. If you remove #10 on that same diagram you can get some more play.
Can't recall the size of the bolt head. 20-something (21?) MM?
Had mine off a week ago & the hardline is in the way of the top bolt. If you remove #10 on that same diagram you can get some more play.
Can't recall the size of the bolt head. 20-something (21?) MM?
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That's good to know. I was wondering if it was an allen head like the 7mm ones on the other a6s. It explains why mine doesn't fit.
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Ron
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The bolts are not behind the pins on the caliper, but rather to the spindle. They are standard hex head bolts. I think 19mm, but not sure. The trick is to turn the wheels to get room for an 18" breaker bar and a short extension. Follow NJA642's good tip on loosening the hard line bracket.
The bolts are tight, so wear gloves so you don't draw blood when the socket slips off the bolt head.
If the rotors are in decent shape and you're not getting any pulsation when braking, I would just throw on the pads. Pads only take a few minutes(after you have the car jacked and wheel off), since you don't have to pull the caliper. IMO Audi's minumum rotor thickness specs are overly conservative, unless you're tracking the car.
The bolts are tight, so wear gloves so you don't draw blood when the socket slips off the bolt head.
If the rotors are in decent shape and you're not getting any pulsation when braking, I would just throw on the pads. Pads only take a few minutes(after you have the car jacked and wheel off), since you don't have to pull the caliper. IMO Audi's minumum rotor thickness specs are overly conservative, unless you're tracking the car.
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They are the right configuration for HP2. You should LOOK at your own brake sensor connector configuration to determine if you have D or oval. It's probably D-shaped, but you never know. Your dealer MIGHT know from your VIN.
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I would like to ask why are you removing the calipers. Are you changing pads and rotors? Be real carful of the rubber slide boots and pins. If you tare amy of the rubber, the caliper will have to be replaced. You can not get a rebuild kit for the slid pins and the center acording boot. I am working with a tech from tolyn on some brass bushing.
Ron
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The bolts are not behind the pins on the caliper, but rather to the spindle. They are standard hex head bolts. I think 19mm, but not sure. The trick is to turn the wheels to get room for an 18" breaker bar and a short extension. Follow NJA642's good tip on loosening the hard line bracket.
The bolts are tight, so wear gloves so you don't draw blood when the socket slips off the bolt head.
If the rotors are in decent shape and you're not getting any pulsation when braking, I would just throw on the pads. Pads only take a few minutes(after you have the car jacked and wheel off), since you don't have to pull the caliper. IMO Audi's minumum rotor thickness specs are overly conservative, unless you're tracking the car.
The bolts are tight, so wear gloves so you don't draw blood when the socket slips off the bolt head.
If the rotors are in decent shape and you're not getting any pulsation when braking, I would just throw on the pads. Pads only take a few minutes(after you have the car jacked and wheel off), since you don't have to pull the caliper. IMO Audi's minumum rotor thickness specs are overly conservative, unless you're tracking the car.
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Thanks again for all the help I've received.
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If the lips bother you just knock them off with an angle grinder. EZ with the caliper off, but wala, now you don't have to take the caliper off!
And if you don't grind off the lip, you'll just have that much more warning your pads are thin next time before the warning light hits. The backs as well; there is no warning light on them.
And if you don't grind off the lip, you'll just have that much more warning your pads are thin next time before the warning light hits. The backs as well; there is no warning light on them.