Brushed Aluminum Interior Trim
12-11-2010, 07:48 PM
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Brushed Aluminum Interior Trim
I am always thinking of new projects to waste my time on and I have been wanting to construct a set of interior trim completely from Carbon Fiber. The place that I get the cf is backordered so I figured I would begin prep for the pieces to make molds. Playing around with the pieces I wanted to see the look of brushed aluminum. I think it looks great! Here are some pictures of the semi-final product.
I say semi-final because I need to add some form of spacers on the doors so it matches up better. I also need to use a finer grade sandpaper on some of the pieces. I just figured I would post some progress pictures.
While looking at the Brushed Door Trim in the drivers door I thought I would try out the door handle trim as well. I think that it looks very good. It does not match up exactly with the other trim piece which is why I need spacers. The combo of the black door handles and brushed trim is great.
Since the C5 never came with this options I thought I could fix it.
I say semi-final because I need to add some form of spacers on the doors so it matches up better. I also need to use a finer grade sandpaper on some of the pieces. I just figured I would post some progress pictures.
While looking at the Brushed Door Trim in the drivers door I thought I would try out the door handle trim as well. I think that it looks very good. It does not match up exactly with the other trim piece which is why I need spacers. The combo of the black door handles and brushed trim is great.
Since the C5 never came with this options I thought I could fix it.
12-11-2010, 07:50 PM
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Also, on the center console and dash pieces I have not swapped in the black rear console or black dash. I think once those pieces are in it will look even better with the Brushed trim.
I welcome all comments and suggestions! Thanks
I welcome all comments and suggestions! Thanks
12-11-2010, 10:56 PM
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All woodgrain pieces for the C5 are aluminum pieces with 4-5 thin layers of wood over them. Then some form of clear/epoxy/sealer is placed on top. There is a ton of clear on each piece.
In order to get it down to the aluminum I had to sand down the clear and each layer of wood. HUGE pain in the *** but I am quite pleased with it now. I have been working on this off and on for 2 weeks since the sanding was so much.
I am sure my fiancee is quite glad it is pretty much over with. Even though after doing an entire set, it has became MUCH easier than at the start.
In order to get it down to the aluminum I had to sand down the clear and each layer of wood. HUGE pain in the *** but I am quite pleased with it now. I have been working on this off and on for 2 weeks since the sanding was so much.
I am sure my fiancee is quite glad it is pretty much over with. Even though after doing an entire set, it has became MUCH easier than at the start.
12-13-2010, 08:57 AM
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Papatoe, the spacing issue has been works out actually. On the oem pieces there is a ton of resin on all of the pieces to protect the wood. The resin fills the missing space. So you can just add resin until it matches
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12-13-2010, 12:30 PM
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What about black-anodized brushed aluminum?
It would be kind of in between brushed aluminum and carbon fiber. Or if you like the metallic look, just normal anodization (no dye). It would add some durability and make it a little more resistant to corrosion,and you shouldn't lose the brushed look. The only downside of the dyed anodization is that it can be scratched off if you aren't careful around it.
Many think that aluminum doesn't corrode, but I find over a long time it can pick up some ugliness. Raw aluminum is naturally VERY reactive, so it reacts very quickly with the oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin aluminum-oxide layer. That layer is stronger than the aluminum, and is what makes it appear as though it doesn't "rust" just because it doesn't appear to have a different color than the aluminum itself, when actually, that layer IS rust (just like rust from iron is just iron oxide). Anodization simply increases the thickness of the natural oxide layer.
On that same note, if you were to decide not to anodize the aluminum, make sure you do the brushing with an aluminum or stainless steel wire brush that has never touched any other metal, because the brush will leave little pieces of itself all over the surface of the trim as well. If you used a generic steel wire brush, those pieces of the brush will rust over time, leaving your trim peppered with little ugly orange spots that could bleed out, etc.
Here's a sample I found on-line
Many think that aluminum doesn't corrode, but I find over a long time it can pick up some ugliness. Raw aluminum is naturally VERY reactive, so it reacts very quickly with the oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin aluminum-oxide layer. That layer is stronger than the aluminum, and is what makes it appear as though it doesn't "rust" just because it doesn't appear to have a different color than the aluminum itself, when actually, that layer IS rust (just like rust from iron is just iron oxide). Anodization simply increases the thickness of the natural oxide layer.
On that same note, if you were to decide not to anodize the aluminum, make sure you do the brushing with an aluminum or stainless steel wire brush that has never touched any other metal, because the brush will leave little pieces of itself all over the surface of the trim as well. If you used a generic steel wire brush, those pieces of the brush will rust over time, leaving your trim peppered with little ugly orange spots that could bleed out, etc.
Here's a sample I found on-line
12-13-2010, 04:36 PM
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Charles!
Thats the same picture I have been looking at for some ideas. I am working on a few anodizing ideas as we speak. I would love to be able to have a complete interior trim set in black anodized aluminum. Some of the problems I am running into now is that since you are removing the resin, and all wood layers you end up with a piece that is not completely flat or may have low/high spots from the sanding. my solution to that is to create a mold out of a PERFECT trim piece and having a foundry shop go ahead and make it for me out of aluminum. That way we remove all imperfections out of it and can go ahead and anodize it and have a perfect looking piece.
Have you ever seen a piece of aluminum that is not 100% smooth be anodized? I personally think it looks horrible but that is just me.
I am planning to make some calls tomorrow and get a better game plan in place for this.
Overall, you hit the nail on the head with anodizing. Whether its black or no dye it is the best way to cover them. Unless you do not like the differences between anodized and brushed.
Thats the same picture I have been looking at for some ideas. I am working on a few anodizing ideas as we speak. I would love to be able to have a complete interior trim set in black anodized aluminum. Some of the problems I am running into now is that since you are removing the resin, and all wood layers you end up with a piece that is not completely flat or may have low/high spots from the sanding. my solution to that is to create a mold out of a PERFECT trim piece and having a foundry shop go ahead and make it for me out of aluminum. That way we remove all imperfections out of it and can go ahead and anodize it and have a perfect looking piece.
Have you ever seen a piece of aluminum that is not 100% smooth be anodized? I personally think it looks horrible but that is just me.
I am planning to make some calls tomorrow and get a better game plan in place for this.
Overall, you hit the nail on the head with anodizing. Whether its black or no dye it is the best way to cover them. Unless you do not like the differences between anodized and brushed.
It would be kind of in between brushed aluminum and carbon fiber. Or if you like the metallic look, just normal anodization (no dye). It would add some durability and make it a little more resistant to corrosion,and you shouldn't lose the brushed look. The only downside of the dyed anodization is that it can be scratched off if you aren't careful around it.
Many think that aluminum doesn't corrode, but I find over a long time it can pick up some ugliness. Raw aluminum is naturally VERY reactive, so it reacts very quickly with the oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin aluminum-oxide layer. That layer is stronger than the aluminum, and is what makes it appear as though it doesn't "rust" just because it doesn't appear to have a different color than the aluminum itself, when actually, that layer IS rust (just like rust from iron is just iron oxide). Anodization simply increases the thickness of the natural oxide layer.
On that same note, if you were to decide not to anodize the aluminum, make sure you do the brushing with an aluminum or stainless steel wire brush that has never touched any other metal, because the brush will leave little pieces of itself all over the surface of the trim as well. If you used a generic steel wire brush, those pieces of the brush will rust over time, leaving your trim peppered with little ugly orange spots that could bleed out, etc.
Here's a sample I found on-line
Many think that aluminum doesn't corrode, but I find over a long time it can pick up some ugliness. Raw aluminum is naturally VERY reactive, so it reacts very quickly with the oxygen in the atmosphere to form a thin aluminum-oxide layer. That layer is stronger than the aluminum, and is what makes it appear as though it doesn't "rust" just because it doesn't appear to have a different color than the aluminum itself, when actually, that layer IS rust (just like rust from iron is just iron oxide). Anodization simply increases the thickness of the natural oxide layer.
On that same note, if you were to decide not to anodize the aluminum, make sure you do the brushing with an aluminum or stainless steel wire brush that has never touched any other metal, because the brush will leave little pieces of itself all over the surface of the trim as well. If you used a generic steel wire brush, those pieces of the brush will rust over time, leaving your trim peppered with little ugly orange spots that could bleed out, etc.
Here's a sample I found on-line