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Cam Adjuster Seal Update: One completed today (BWW)

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Old 03-22-2010, 05:06 AM
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Amazing write up doing mine this week, but just a question..

Why is there a need to loosen the cam caps, and i dont want to loosen the one on the end towards the firewall?

Thanks again...
Old 03-22-2010, 07:40 AM
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I didn't losen any of the cam caps, and it went fine, but I did use the 6th gear trick. See my above posts for that link.
Old 03-29-2010, 05:03 AM
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Default loosen cam caps?...torx plus...

I too don't understand the necessity to remove the cam caps...I didn't remove them, just loosened them per some of the suggestions...but it didn't seem I needed to do even that. One other thing...several of the torx bolts on the Audi are "torx plus"--don't use plain torx...the torx+ fit much better, and allow better torquing...
Guy






Originally Posted by rowland2004
Amazing write up doing mine this week, but just a question..

Why is there a need to loosen the cam caps, and i dont want to loosen the one on the end towards the firewall?

Thanks again...
Old 05-26-2010, 06:17 AM
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Default Tensioner chain relief trick that solved my problem

Originally Posted by scottr20ae
I didn't losen any of the cam caps, and it went fine, but I did use the 6th gear trick. See my above posts for that link.
Replacing the timing belt etc and cam seals I elected to do the tensioner compress and work underneath (removing cam seals externally) with rented blau tools. Bank 1 went as planned, but Bank 2 tensioner would not compress. Since the belt was off I couldnt "rock the engine", but did find a comment buried in the 6th gear thread that was THE halleluljah.
Rotate the intake cam ~10deg using vice grips on an unfinished area(preparing for flames ). There is now more slack in the chain than on the Bank 1 side. Really no need to compress the tensioner! Perhaps this might be different other engines (2.7T). A more elegant method would be to turn the oil pump to allow tensioner compression, but the bottom end was not exposed, and I did not want to turn only the crankshaft (even slightly).

In retrospect it might be easier to remove the cams timewise, but I did not have help and based on having to remove both cams at once with only two hands was really reluctant.
Turning the intake cam created 2X the tensioner space created by full tensioner compression on Bank 1.

Hope this is of help to someone else.
Old 07-09-2012, 06:14 AM
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First post in this thread by OP:

i want to change the tensioner seal and the cam seal (at least on driver side, the front one seems to seep a bit.

Reading: loosening cam (to change tensioner seal): wouldn't the movement of the cam 'unseat' the cam seals (with the resulting risk of now having a leaking cam seal)?


"I thought I would update everyone that I completed the Cam Adjuster seal on the passenger side. It was much less painful than I expected.

I'll run through a few things on this replacement.

1) no you do not need to remove any cams as the bentley indicates.
2) I did loosen the caps on the intake cam as 4Driver4 suggested.
3) Since the gasket is metal...there isn't any significant residual material on the head or adjuster side. Cleaning with Simple green was adequate for the two surfaces.
4) I did not take disconnect the fuel lines as the bentley suggests. This is easy enough to work around.
5) You will need the adjust seal kit:"
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