01A6Turbo

Well, I just spent another $164...lol Ordered 2 new ICM (Ignition control modules) for $80/pc + s/h - pretty damn good deal as the stealership quotes $256 PER ICM. Forget that. lol So, hopefully once the brand new 6 coil packs (arrives tomorrow) and the brand new ICMs (probably in 2-3 days), I should be good to go! lol *looks up and prays*

MN A6 Avant

Seconding this! Call your local Audi dealer and read them your VIN. They should be able to tell you whether your vehicle is included in the CP recall. They just paid for all of mine to be replaced less than a month ago.

Jim Will

Did you ever check your spark plugs? A worn out or slightly loose spark plug will cause a misfire under load. Been there done that. Trust me.. Plugs are very important to these cars. especially when modified.
Always start with the simple and then dig deeper. Get a misfire on #2 cylinder. Pull #2 coil and #3 and switch. See if the misfire follows. If it does then more than likely it's the coil. if it doesn't check your plug. Etc.

CrodA6

have u found the problem b4 ya just start replacing parts or is the "Force" guiding you on this? could get expensive. been there.

Redneck Truck

Why I suggested checking the battery - it's free and takes 30 seconds, and if it's bad, there's really no point in doing any diagnostic work until it's fixed. After the coils and spark plugs don't fix it, check for boost leaks and vacuum leaks too. Vacuum leaks could affect fueling by allowing extra air in at idle and affecting the operation of a vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator. And assuming the computer can't compensate for a boost leak, such an occurrence would cause a rich condition which could cause a cat to take a ****. I'm still leaning toward the battery though.

m000035

seems you are just throwing money at the problem. Maybe you should trouble shoot a little. If I have read correctly you are only mis-firing on #2. You have 5 "known good" coils/plugs and at least one good POS.

A while back, rboorgu asked:

Have you checked this? You can swap them in about 1 minute bay swapping the connectors. Just swap all four connectors. If the code "moves" to #5, the POS is bad. If not, both POS's are "OK."

I am not sure why everyone keeps talking about "Coil Packs." The coils are individual coils -- not packs. Some Audi's have packs of not only coils but have the power output stages integrated with the coils. (Lets be smart and combine the unreliable coils WITH the more unreliable output transistors... only one part to change!) Anyway, I would always swap a suspect coil with a good cylinder to check it BEFORE putting out money for a replacement.

Others have talked about the battery - bad cell could load down the electrical system. I would expect to see other symptoms. I would call this possible, just unlikely. But volt meter would tell you in about 2 or 3 minutes.

01A6Turbo

Thank you all for all of your input - here are my responses to each...

1) Battery - My battery is newer, prev. owner changed it < 30k miles ago but everything is working fine. Even with the misfire, the battery puts out over 12V during ignite, and the car runs at 14v at all times, never fluctuates. I haven't tested it with a meter but I'm pretty sure that isn't the problem

2) I did test the cyl #2 coil. After switching it, the misfire stayed the same but CEL took a little longer to come back on (while idling, I haven't driven her since this occurred) which makes me believe it is the ICM over a coil...however, I did not know you could test the ICM that way just by swapping the connectors around - I will def. try this in the morning, thanks m000035!

3) Jim, I just changed the plugs < 8k miles ago with brand new and correctly gapped pulstar plugs...so to be honest they were not the first thing on my mind, esp after reading so many threads on here where every person with the EXACT same symptoms claimed it turned out to be either their coil itself or the ICM/POS...

Yes, I did throw money out there and order brand new 6 coils and 2 new ICMs...however, the Audi is my daily driver and only car and the awesome deals I got on both, both being brand new and OEM, also with me needing my car fixed ASAP and having to wait for shipping, I said F-it and went ahead and ordered them. If one, the other, or both don't fix the problem, the company has a 2 week full money back guarantee - so at most I pay $20 to ship the ICMs and CPs back, have the piece of mind that my factory ones are still fine, and get a full refund of my money. lol Don't ask...it's just how my mind works I refuse to pay the stealership $90 for a diagnostics and another god knows how many hundreds -> thousands of dollars to fix the problem when I can probably do it myself and 3/4 the cost - any Audi owner knows that lol

2.7Lturbo

one, those wernt the best deals out there for parts so easy patting yourself on the back there. two, i HIGHLY doubt they will take back USED electronics components.

01A6Turbo

States in their return policy on both items: 14 Days after purchaser has received item. Refund will be given as money back. If not satisfied within 14 days return for FULL refund less shipping. So you can doubt all you want - legally, according to his own policy, his company must honor my returns if I am not satisified with the product.

Also, hmm let's see - shopped ALL over the net and also researched stealership costs - if you're telling me that $30/pc per CP w/ free 2 day shipping when every where is selling them $50-150/pc. + s/h (and yes, these are brand new) and $72/pc per ICM when every where else wants $91-256(OEM) per ICM? You may be right 27Lturbo, but I can care two ****s less, might not be the BEST deal out there - but it's still a pretty damn hard deal to beat and I don't have 10 days to sit online and research/compare different prices. I do work, you know. She needs fixed stat.

m000035

01A6Turbo,

You are correct that you can buy a "package deal" of 6 coils for cheaper than you could by 2 or 3 coils. (I have 5 "known good" and one "suspect" one in boxes around here somewhere!)

Most parts stores specifically exempt electrical parts from being returned if there is any chance they where installed. (Too often people "let the smoke out" and try and return it.)

I know that with shipping and fixing your "daily driver" the choices made will not always be cost efficient. When you do get it working properly, swap back in the non-returnable removed parts to verify their status. They then can be reused in the future.