Control Arms
#1
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I have a small question. I am planning to replace front control arms on both sides in my vehicle. I have been reading a lot about OEM ones, such as Meyle, Ocap and few others (don't remember their names). All I hear, Ocap are OK for short period time, 1 year or two, then they start failing. I know the price is great, ~ $500, comparing to the Audi genuine, ~ $1200. I am very confused what to get. So, I started to think of replacing just the bushings, which are the real problem. They are cracked. The ball joints and their seals seem to be fine. However, I'm not sure how hard would be to replace them (seems they are pressed in into arms) and if it even makes sense to replace, or just get new control arms. Anyone advise please?
#3
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Well thanks. I went to the Axis Motorsprts's website for more info and got this...
"The site is currently down for maintenance. Please excuse the dust, and try back later.
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"The site is currently down for maintenance. Please excuse the dust, and try back later.
The Admin / Webmaster has enabled maintenance at : 2009-09-21 08:06:30
Maintenance period : 0h30"
#4
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OE does not equal quality for Audi/VW front end parts. Cartalk called them "junk", which left me laughing because all my bushings went before 60k. And the wisdom seems to be that the ball joints are such poor quality they'll fail next if you just replace the bushings. This is not from constant potholes, or (well, too much) hard cornering, or heavy loads. Just daily driving. VAG needs to find a better supplier for these parts. So I'd look elsewhere.
Note that VAG's problems with similar materials extend to cam/cam adjuster seals, valve cover gaskets, and the seals in the aux coolant pump--at least. All fail prematurely on these cars. Rubber-like compounds just aren't their strong suit.
Note that VAG's problems with similar materials extend to cam/cam adjuster seals, valve cover gaskets, and the seals in the aux coolant pump--at least. All fail prematurely on these cars. Rubber-like compounds just aren't their strong suit.
#5
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The OEM ones are either made by Lemfoerder or TRW. If you go this route it will be VERY expensive and unnecessary.
I would go with either the Febi kit from Pure Motorsports or the kit from 034 Motorsports.
Here is all the research I did.
__________________________________________________ ________________________
You can view the whole thread here. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309279
Meyle, Febi, Ocap, Lemforder, Hamburg-Technic, OEM
Way to many options. I need input from people WITH EXPERIENCE in these kits. 4 different brands and 300-600 in cost is a little overwhelming.
Pure MS (Febi $589 w/ TR & EL) 12pc
034 Motorsports (In House $400 no TR or EL)
JHM (from 034)
Performance Café (Meyle $589 w/ TR & EL) Eurospec Kit for $449
FCP (Meyle $599 w/ TR & EL)
Blau Parts (Meyle $609 w/ TR & EL) 12pc
FCP Groton has an S4 kit 319 (generic brand)
I would go with either the Febi kit from Pure Motorsports or the kit from 034 Motorsports.
Here is all the research I did.
__________________________________________________ ________________________
You can view the whole thread here. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309279
Meyle, Febi, Ocap, Lemforder, Hamburg-Technic, OEM
Way to many options. I need input from people WITH EXPERIENCE in these kits. 4 different brands and 300-600 in cost is a little overwhelming.
Pure MS (Febi $589 w/ TR & EL) 12pc
034 Motorsports (In House $400 no TR or EL)
JHM (from 034)
Performance Café (Meyle $589 w/ TR & EL) Eurospec Kit for $449
FCP (Meyle $599 w/ TR & EL)
Blau Parts (Meyle $609 w/ TR & EL) 12pc
FCP Groton has an S4 kit 319 (generic brand)
#6
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2.slowT,
Yesterday, I saw your different post, that Febie are better, than others. I've looked around and decided to get those. BUT, I think OEM is garbage on long run, no matter where the parts come from. Prices are very attractive.
I probably will get the OEM stuff, because of the price. But, all I want to say, OEM is garbage.
I will provide one simple example not related to the topic of this thread. Some time ago bought rear wheel bearings from very well known place here, that has blue color in its name. I pressed them into the housing they way described in Bentley. After reassembling the rear suspension, I was not able to squeeze the brake rotor on the assembly, because the wheel hub was sticking out by 4mm. Even more, I was not able to push it out with 12 ton press. I broke the bearing housing and had to look for "new" one on the junk yard. Sad story. Not recommended to anyone.
Well, I ordered the bearings from a dealer. The bearings fitted perfectly fine into the "new" and other housing.
My point is, I trust Audi genuine parts more than OEM. The parts are certified. What seems to be cheaper in short run, it will become expensive in long run.
Example, OEM bearing kit was $96 for both. I didn't work out. The genuine part, $96 for one, worked perfect.
TB kit... Water pump (meyle) broke after 1 year. Quality part runs great 1.5 years.
Thank you.
Yesterday, I saw your different post, that Febie are better, than others. I've looked around and decided to get those. BUT, I think OEM is garbage on long run, no matter where the parts come from. Prices are very attractive.
I probably will get the OEM stuff, because of the price. But, all I want to say, OEM is garbage.
I will provide one simple example not related to the topic of this thread. Some time ago bought rear wheel bearings from very well known place here, that has blue color in its name. I pressed them into the housing they way described in Bentley. After reassembling the rear suspension, I was not able to squeeze the brake rotor on the assembly, because the wheel hub was sticking out by 4mm. Even more, I was not able to push it out with 12 ton press. I broke the bearing housing and had to look for "new" one on the junk yard. Sad story. Not recommended to anyone.
Well, I ordered the bearings from a dealer. The bearings fitted perfectly fine into the "new" and other housing.
My point is, I trust Audi genuine parts more than OEM. The parts are certified. What seems to be cheaper in short run, it will become expensive in long run.
Example, OEM bearing kit was $96 for both. I didn't work out. The genuine part, $96 for one, worked perfect.
TB kit... Water pump (meyle) broke after 1 year. Quality part runs great 1.5 years.
Thank you.
#7
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confusion reigns. Let's get proper terminology or we'll all get confused.
Dont confuse "aftermarket" and "OEM". OEM means the original equipment manufacturer. So for Audi control arms, that's TRW. For oil filters, mann. For calipers, usually ate.
Aftermarket means anyone who claims their part fits. Very similar to $20 Rolex watches - some of which actually keep better time than Rolexs.
There can be more than one OEM, most big companies dual source at least.
Aftermarket can be great or junk. The best control arms are Febi/Bilstein, by common agreement. The worst, also by common agreement are meyle. True OEM? in the middle.
I have used nothing but factory parts - thank goodness i have little experience :-)
Given the cost of the labor, i would buy the best available part.
G
Dont confuse "aftermarket" and "OEM". OEM means the original equipment manufacturer. So for Audi control arms, that's TRW. For oil filters, mann. For calipers, usually ate.
Aftermarket means anyone who claims their part fits. Very similar to $20 Rolex watches - some of which actually keep better time than Rolexs.
There can be more than one OEM, most big companies dual source at least.
Aftermarket can be great or junk. The best control arms are Febi/Bilstein, by common agreement. The worst, also by common agreement are meyle. True OEM? in the middle.
I have used nothing but factory parts - thank goodness i have little experience :-)
Given the cost of the labor, i would buy the best available part.
G
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#9
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I have a small question. I am planning to replace front control arms on both sides in my vehicle. I have been reading a lot about OEM ones, such as Meyle, Ocap and few others (don't remember their names). All I hear, Ocap are OK for short period time, 1 year or two, then they start failing. I know the price is great, ~ $500, comparing to the Audi genuine, ~ $1200. I am very confused what to get. So, I started to think of replacing just the bushings, which are the real problem. They are cracked. The ball joints and their seals seem to be fine. However, I'm not sure how hard would be to replace them (seems they are pressed in into arms) and if it even makes sense to replace, or just get new control arms. Anyone advise please?
![](http://www.magnumforceracing.com/images/product_images/Magnumforce_Product_images/Controlarms/MFR161022_mopar_bushed_control_arms.jpg)