Coolant leak with car not being on...advice?
#11
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
so it looks like the dreaded oil cooler pipe failure
I was going to be doing a FULL TB job on this car anyways, so based upon this...I 've just got more work on my hand.
I noticed that you had compiled a bit of a parts list for the oil cooler job and was wondering if anyone knows of a 'kit' available?
I'm going to be getting the bufkin pipe...so what else do I need, exactly?
- 8 O-ring
- coolant temp sensor
Where do I get the gaskets? I usually go with ECS, Blau or Europarts and if someone know exactly what I need, can you link them out? just saves me from having to 'hope' that I've bought everything I need.
Thanks
I noticed that you had compiled a bit of a parts list for the oil cooler job and was wondering if anyone knows of a 'kit' available?
I'm going to be getting the bufkin pipe...so what else do I need, exactly?
- 8 O-ring
- coolant temp sensor
Where do I get the gaskets? I usually go with ECS, Blau or Europarts and if someone know exactly what I need, can you link them out? just saves me from having to 'hope' that I've bought everything I need.
Thanks
#12
AudiWorld Super User
List of gaskets/parts..
just off the top of my head...years ago I should have written down or saved the p/n.
I ended up getting my 8-shaped O-ring from the dealer, had to buy the kit for the entire oil cooler.
Check the guy's alternator voltage regulator-carried brushes while you have the alternator out. service limit is 5mm.
You have to at least release if not remove the front motor mount...it's bolted to the oil cooler housing and to another bracket that in turn bolts to the chassis. You also have to remove the right side lower motor mount and its mounting bracket.
Two radiator hose O-rings, same size.
One CTS O-ring
One CTS sensor and clip
You'll need a worm gear clamp for the upper radiator hose...take my word for it...it will pop off with the stock clamp on a warm/hot day after you finish the repair..
You should consider replacing the long plastic tube from the expansion tank to the upper radiator hose...it's brittle after 6-7 years and you'll probably break it anyway when you try to pull out the air box--which you have to do. Use a small worm clamp on the upper radiator hose where the plastic tube gozinta.
One 8-shaped O-ring (probably from the oil cooler gasket kit unless you can find it separately)
Bufkin coolant transfer pipe...ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Aud...-/261098557789
Probably have to replace the front motor mount as well...you'll be able to tell when you take it out in two pieces. If it's still together don't bother to replace it.
I ended up getting my 8-shaped O-ring from the dealer, had to buy the kit for the entire oil cooler.
Check the guy's alternator voltage regulator-carried brushes while you have the alternator out. service limit is 5mm.
You have to at least release if not remove the front motor mount...it's bolted to the oil cooler housing and to another bracket that in turn bolts to the chassis. You also have to remove the right side lower motor mount and its mounting bracket.
Two radiator hose O-rings, same size.
One CTS O-ring
One CTS sensor and clip
You'll need a worm gear clamp for the upper radiator hose...take my word for it...it will pop off with the stock clamp on a warm/hot day after you finish the repair..
You should consider replacing the long plastic tube from the expansion tank to the upper radiator hose...it's brittle after 6-7 years and you'll probably break it anyway when you try to pull out the air box--which you have to do. Use a small worm clamp on the upper radiator hose where the plastic tube gozinta.
One 8-shaped O-ring (probably from the oil cooler gasket kit unless you can find it separately)
Bufkin coolant transfer pipe...ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Aud...-/261098557789
Probably have to replace the front motor mount as well...you'll be able to tell when you take it out in two pieces. If it's still together don't bother to replace it.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 12-07-2012 at 03:30 PM.
#13
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Hey guys. So am at a quandary now. I know I have to do the oil cooler pipe + the full timing belt. Now it comes down to price. I know that I'm looking at about $1000 in parts alone minus any surprises. But as we all know the major cost is the labor.
The car is in ok shape and it's obvious the person bought it and didn't have it to maintain it much. It dies need a really good detail, which is required at this point. But the real stickler is what I should offer.
It has brand new tires, rotors, pads. And the engine seems ok plus the oil looked ok with no start up issues. Btw it's silver with black/charcoal leather and has the cold weather and warm weather packages. There are a few odds and ends missing - lower front grille, some small dents on rear bumper, etc.
The car is in ok shape and it's obvious the person bought it and didn't have it to maintain it much. It dies need a really good detail, which is required at this point. But the real stickler is what I should offer.
It has brand new tires, rotors, pads. And the engine seems ok plus the oil looked ok with no start up issues. Btw it's silver with black/charcoal leather and has the cold weather and warm weather packages. There are a few odds and ends missing - lower front grille, some small dents on rear bumper, etc.
#15
AudiWorld Super User
It's a money pit and a project car. Offer the guy 6k but those two things have to be fixed first and the car has to pass inspection.
If you can't do the work yourself, pass. You're going to find lots of other stuff as you get into it. For example, a power steering hose is over $400 part alone...$900 installed.
Run, don't walk...there's many reasons the seller doesn't want this poor thing.
If you can't do the work yourself, pass. You're going to find lots of other stuff as you get into it. For example, a power steering hose is over $400 part alone...$900 installed.
Run, don't walk...there's many reasons the seller doesn't want this poor thing.
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I do realize the money pit aspects of this. But in a way aren't all decade old audi's money pits? Heck I'm always doing preventative maintenance and well this seller didn't do as much. However here's where we are on the car. He's willing to take less than $2k for it and I know that I'll be putting about $1k into parts alone and plan to do most of the work myself. Aside from some stuff that I just don't have the patience to tackle. So I'll put $600 into additional labor. At the end I could get a decent c5 4.2 for soooo much less than I paid for my 2.8, many years ago
The guy who owns the car has close to 0 automotive experience hence the reason he just want to walk away. He just can't afford to spend the $4-$5k it would take to fix it at a shop
The guy who owns the car has close to 0 automotive experience hence the reason he just want to walk away. He just can't afford to spend the $4-$5k it would take to fix it at a shop
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