lwang2six

I am doing my timing belt, I am at the point where I need to unbolt the 10mm bolt so I can get the crank lock pin in.

My question is how on earth do I get to it?

It was hard to find, and when I finally found it, I have no clue how I can get to it since the space is so small. I can barely touch the bolt even with my small boyish hands...

Any suggestions or advice for it?

Help is extremely appreciated it!

2000_A6_2.8_Avant

I used a long (18"/24") 3/8 extension. I also had the front left tire off and all of the inner fender crap. If I remember correctly, it is a 10mm bolt. My problem was that I could get the bolt out, but could not figure out how to get the cover off. Ended up using a pair of needle nose pliers and squeezing my hand in there to pull it off.

I ended up breaking the cover putting it back (don't ask) and had to get a replacement from the Audi stealer.

lwang2six

Thanks for the quick reply! I will give it a try tomorrow.

socalclimber

I just did TB job on 4.2 and mine was an 8mm allen bolt. I had front end on jack stands so I could get under engine easily. To take off, I used an 8mm allen key, L-shaped, and had an small 8mm box-end wrench on it to break it free. It's very tight, I agree.

When I put it all back I used a short socket and small ratchet with very short piece of 8mm allen stock (cut from that key above). But long extension with ball-joint may work too as other poster mentioned. See photos.

When I put in the crank pin, I rocked the crank gently back-and-forth at TDC with a flex handle and 24mm socket as I was tightening crank pin, to find the sweet spot of pin on crank.

I did the oil cooler coolant pipe too, and that needed similar acrobatics with 8mm allen keys and sockets. Good luck and take your time, this a preview of how I experienced the whole job (TB/WP/oil cooler coolant pipe/cam seals/vc gasket).

johnkk

All the replies to your post refered to non-turbo cars and do not apply to the 2.7t.

You must remove the interfering turbo pipe to get to the TDC locking plug in. You can remove the plug hole cover without removing the pipe by using long extensions and ujoints, but you will not be able to get the seal out or TDC plug in without removing the pipe. Simply too tight.

That is why so many do the 2.7 TB job by just setting the engine to TDC using the mark on the crank pulley and being careful not to move the engine during TB R/R. The A student removes the turbo pipe and screws in the TDC locking plug. Took me about 15 minutes to remove the pipe. PITA but guarantees that you don't turn the crank during the process.

2.7Lturbo

or if your cool like me you can remomve the crank pug and put in the locking tool without removing the downpipes at all.... i know im cool

johnkk

How the heck did you do it? I could reach the cover bolt with extensions, but no room to get a hand up there.

2.7Lturbo

i couldnt even describe it other then using to fingers to turn the wrench

eCoastAudi

I just did this the other day on a '01 2.7T MT. I did from the center underneath, left hand. Long wrench to undo the bolt, then loosen by hand.
If you flop around the crank pin the right way you can thread that in as well. Not super easy, but I didn't remove anything either.

dimitris1453

i took my sensor out and i have been try to get the pin in there!!!
i have sooo much hard time to screw that pin in there is any help guys to me please i see the open space but it will not bolt in!!!!