acarney

Ya, I was going to do that but after a couple orders from Amazon I just got lazy and didn't want to keep doing the trial accounts... that was about 5 years ago, and I'm SURE Amazon still loses money on me with how much random crap I order with Prime!

I'll buy the cam lock bar that was linked from Amazon with Prime.

I'm looking for the crank lock pin, the special tool that support the bumper for service position, and the special tool to help counter hold the cooling fan during removal... that would have been a huge pain in the *** without that tool...

acarney

I also ordered genuine Audi parts: thermostat, thermostat flange thing (the plastic cover part), hose that goes from that housing to lower part of radiator, thermostat O ring, new main water pump gasket (just in case) and a couple random bolts that I wanted to have on hand.

I don't know if that is what's causing the leak, but the gaskets and O rings were dirt cheap, the thermostat was fairly cheap (less then $40) and I was worried the "Audi" O ring might not seal perfect against a 3rd party thermostat so.... I figured if I was pulling everything else off in that area it would be just as easy if not easier to get the hose that connects too :P

I also have a Mann oil filter on it's way, more G13 coolant, and fresh oil.

This has been one hell of a service but man it'll feel great as long as I can get this last leak done. The car will have had so much stuff done to keep her running nice.

Question, I won't have to pop those sprockets off to replace thermostat housing/thermostat will I? I can't remember if part of it is hidden behind one or not. I know I'll have to take the belt off (which is why I need the bar and that blasted hard as hell to reach crank lock pin) but I was hoping the sprockets didn't have to come off again...

tester123

If you are going to take T-Belt off, you'll need the bar. The sprockets don't need to be removed. With T-belt off, if the cam(s) suddenly spins to a resting position, it would be difficult to set timing without the bar and pin. As always, some grease monkey with ***** the size of 2.7T's combi valves will try to pull it off and may succeed as well. For ordinary folk this is a risky adventure! Check your size and proceed accordingly.

acarney

Ya. Bar and pin for sure. Just didn't want to have to get a puller and pull those suckers off if I didn't have to.

Do you know where to buy the tool to help remove the cooling fan and the bumper supports for the service position?

tester123

Wise choice! For the "viscous fan", some people "hacked" it using a screwdriver and adjustable pliers. YMMV. As always, eBay has a good selection.

jseklund

When removing the viscous fan, I always take a heavy allen wrench and slide it into one of the slots...then turn the fan until the allen wrench catches on the side of the housing behind the pulley. You can kind of wedge it in there and then turn the bolt. It will be easy, especially since you just took it off recently.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Remove the viscous fan with an air hammer and a pointed end…pops it right off.

Owee…and I swore I wasn't going to raise this rather large thread to the top.
Sorry bout that.

acarney

I can't believe how tricky it is to find the carrier support tools to hold the front end in the service position. ECS has the crank lock pin that I can order. Amazon has the cam lock bar. I guess I can "wing it" with the fan and just jam a long hex key or bit in it or something if I can find that nifty tool. But without those support tools I'm kinda stuck...

jseklund

I didn't even know they had carrier support tools. I usually just loosen the front end enough to move it forward so I can work in there and then put a couple of 5 gallon pails stacked inside of each other to the right height at various points under the carrier. Still not a great solution and things can go wrong...but it's worked for me...

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Just google the p/n.
I got a set fer shizzle. Or make your own with a couple of long metric bolts and pieces of pipe to go over them….or let it hang a little on the bolts alone.