CV BOOT Broke :(
#16
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Replace boot only IF no clicking noises and it has just recently cracked open. If any clicking noises or it's been quite a while (think road dirt, grime, winter crud, etc.) it's likely you should replace the half axle.
Once you pull out the axle to do the outer boot, it's very little more work to replace the inner one, though they don't crack open nearly as much.
Also if you lost one side just due to wear (as opposed to something phyically tearing it), figure it is just a matter of time until the other side goes. For my car, each side went within months of each other at just short of 5 years/60K miles. Replacing it early means less messy clean up, avoids unscheduled down time, maybe gets you a package price at the mechanic, and minimizes risk internals of joint will get messed up. Replacing the joint can add several hundred dollars to the repair cost.
While the axle is out, have the wheel bearing checked. The mechanic can simply spin it by hand to look for any signs of play or roughness.
Finally, look at all front suspension parts at the same time. Many postings on this, but if you are at the mileage where your CV boots are cracking open, your outer tie rods and upper suspension arms are likely to be worn or the rubber grease boots torn open. The lower ones may go longer. It's easy to see, you need to clean up the grease on these same parts anyway, and replacing worn ones also can solve shimmy issues.
Once you pull out the axle to do the outer boot, it's very little more work to replace the inner one, though they don't crack open nearly as much.
Also if you lost one side just due to wear (as opposed to something phyically tearing it), figure it is just a matter of time until the other side goes. For my car, each side went within months of each other at just short of 5 years/60K miles. Replacing it early means less messy clean up, avoids unscheduled down time, maybe gets you a package price at the mechanic, and minimizes risk internals of joint will get messed up. Replacing the joint can add several hundred dollars to the repair cost.
While the axle is out, have the wheel bearing checked. The mechanic can simply spin it by hand to look for any signs of play or roughness.
Finally, look at all front suspension parts at the same time. Many postings on this, but if you are at the mileage where your CV boots are cracking open, your outer tie rods and upper suspension arms are likely to be worn or the rubber grease boots torn open. The lower ones may go longer. It's easy to see, you need to clean up the grease on these same parts anyway, and replacing worn ones also can solve shimmy issues.
#17
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The amount of labor is more or less the same....and instead of a potentially scored up CV joint I've now got a new one and a new inner one all packed with fresh synthetic grease and new boots all around with all new hardware to boot. And I didn't have to spend all that time and deal with the noxious chemicals to clean and then repack the outer joint...and deal with the supreme mess it makes when you repack a CV joint. Well worth the extra $$$ to me.
Cheers,
Cheers,