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CV Boot - How Remove Bolt holding Top Ball Joints?

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Old 09-06-2004, 05:37 AM
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Default CV Boot - How Remove Bolt holding Top Ball Joints?

How do I get the bolt locking in top ball joints out? Afraid to overtorque and break bolt.
Is it threaded into carrier?
Tried soaking with Liq Wrnch for a day and pounding on nut at end of bolt.

Would it just be easier to pop out lower ball joints?
Thanks,
Bike100miles
1998 A6Q
Old 09-06-2004, 05:49 AM
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Default Don't touch the bottom ball joints, you will damage the rubber seals....

just undo the inner end of the two lower TCA's and you can then pull the hub out enough to get the CV joint out.
Old 09-06-2004, 06:14 AM
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Default Very easy. Just remove the bolt held by 2 16mm bolt

Look at picture #7 on Andy's tech page on cv at https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml.

The bolt in the picture has 2 16mm sockets. Take the bolt out COMPLETELY and one or both of the arms just 'pop' right out. If one or both are stuck, then first just wiggle the entire arm and it'll pop, or blast a pb, tap it with a mallet, and wiggle again. If this doesn't work, then turn the engine on, and turn the steering wheel every so slighly, wiggle and it should just pop right out.

The arms took me < 1 minute to remove and should be effortless! (Note: Audi service manual states that the aluminum nut should be discarded...)

Good Luck!

IggyB
Old 09-06-2004, 06:21 AM
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Default If you can wait for week or two, and I'll have a new write-up.

1. Absolutely no need to remove the lower ball joints.

2. My assesment is that it's worth the $$$ to get the joint separator tool for vw/audi. If you force the bolt back in, then you end up crushing the head and it's a b#$h to take it out. Not only that, putting the new bolt in also becomes painful.

3. You do not need to remove the axle to replace the outer boot.

I should have a write-up with pictures in roughly 1.5 weeks. Besides the snag I ran into with the bolt, it took me 30 minutes up to this point. I am guessing the whole process (with the vag tool) would take no more then an hour. (Not including time soaking the joint with the paint thinner.)

Iggy
Old 09-06-2004, 07:21 AM
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Default The problem Bike100 is having is that

the bolt is rusty and seized in the carrier. It seems around here that 8 out of 10 of those bolts are in there tighter than Rosie O'Donnells *** in an airplane seat. The bolt is not threaded into the carrier. If you have been pounding on the end of the bolt it most likely has mushroomed enough that you will never get it out by hand. Do a search at Harbor Freight tools for item # 4065-1VGA. This is the tool we use to drive the bolt out. One look at the tool and you will see how to use it. You'll need a punch that is smaller in diameter than the bolt to drive thru the carrier.

No offense to IggyB, but I have no idea what he"s talking about, "joint seperator".
Old 09-06-2004, 09:55 AM
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This is reason I suggest dropping the lower arms from the inner bushes.
Old 09-06-2004, 12:03 PM
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Default You use this?

So basically you press the bolt out? The head of the bolt fits through the hole at the end of the C clamp? Do you cut the threaded part of the bolt off flush with the housing first?
Sorry for all the questions.
<img src="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/04000-04099/04065.gif">
Old 09-06-2004, 12:05 PM
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Default Little choice now. As much wrenching and pounding

I imagine that bolt has taken, I wouldnt trust it. It needs to be replaced.
Old 09-06-2004, 12:50 PM
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Default Exactly, bolt head thru the hole.

No need to cut off the threaded end unless its mushroomed out. Chances are when you get the bolt moved a half inch or so you will have broken it loose. Then you can use a punch and tap it right out. When you replace the bolt use some anti-seize compound.
Old 09-06-2004, 12:54 PM
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Good to know. I struggled for hours to pull the bolts out of my wife's 99


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