Engine shut off while downshifting on highway
03-26-2012, 06:16 PM
#21
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that's nice to hear. yes, i think i recall seeing an access panel in the rear onmy C5. I was fearing it might be like the C4, in which the pump was in the bottom of the tank, and you had to remove a trap door in the top of the tank, then buys special tool to remove the fuel pump, which is int he bottom - then get at the wires from beneath. Ugh.
This sounds much easier. Same on an avant?
G
This sounds much easier. Same on an avant?
G
as far as the gas is concerned. just make sure your careful and the area is well ventilated.
03-26-2012, 06:24 PM
#22
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http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...uel/ES1306674/
use this part if you want a drop in no hassle replacement, just un plug the connectors and swap over the hoses and your done.
now if you want to save more money
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...uel/ES2189784/
this will require you to possible custom wire it into the harness or buy a harness adaptor, but it is an upgraded pump from stock.
i would recommenced going with the first option if your not very experienced. unless you have huge turbos and need massive amounts of fuel, you will never test the stock pump (not even with a chip
).
also these prices are from ECS tuning, they are not necessarily the cheapest, just used for reference.
use this part if you want a drop in no hassle replacement, just un plug the connectors and swap over the hoses and your done.
now if you want to save more money
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...uel/ES2189784/
this will require you to possible custom wire it into the harness or buy a harness adaptor, but it is an upgraded pump from stock.
i would recommenced going with the first option if your not very experienced. unless you have huge turbos and need massive amounts of fuel, you will never test the stock pump (not even with a chip
). also these prices are from ECS tuning, they are not necessarily the cheapest, just used for reference.
03-27-2012, 05:40 AM
#23
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http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...uel/ES1306674/
use this part if you want a drop in no hassle replacement, just un plug the connectors and swap over the hoses and your done.
now if you want to save more money
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...uel/ES2189784/
this will require you to possible custom wire it into the harness or buy a harness adaptor, but it is an upgraded pump from stock.
i would recommenced going with the first option if your not very experienced. unless you have huge turbos and need massive amounts of fuel, you will never test the stock pump (not even with a chip ).
also these prices are from ECS tuning, they are not necessarily the cheapest, just used for reference.
use this part if you want a drop in no hassle replacement, just un plug the connectors and swap over the hoses and your done.
now if you want to save more money
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...uel/ES2189784/
this will require you to possible custom wire it into the harness or buy a harness adaptor, but it is an upgraded pump from stock.
i would recommenced going with the first option if your not very experienced. unless you have huge turbos and need massive amounts of fuel, you will never test the stock pump (not even with a chip
). also these prices are from ECS tuning, they are not necessarily the cheapest, just used for reference.
The mechanic put a few gallons of gas in the car to make sure I didnt run out of gas. I read in the write up that the job is less messy if the have less fuel in the car. Should I try to siphon the fuel out of the car? Do you guys have any tricks or tips to accomplish this?
thanks.
03-27-2012, 07:20 AM
#25
AudiWorld Super User
You're better off with more gas than less gas....the less fuel in the tank the more air gets in there...fuel vapors ignite, not gas.
Just be sure to have all the windows/doors open and ignition OFF. Don't even put the key in the ignition!!
You can cøver the høle in the tank when the pump/unit comes out with a sheet of tin foil while you get the new pump and compare it.
Generally, the fuel pump has to go in the same way it came out for the fuel lines to match up. If the pump is part of the fuel sender assembly and you get a pump only rather than the entire assembly you SHOULD cover up the hole with tin foil while you remove the old pump and put the new pump into the assembly prior to installing the assembly in the tank.
Get out of the car when you do this...only time you should be in the car is removing and replacing the assembly.
I don't know how this particular fuel pump/sender assembly comes out, but they are often held in place with a large-diameter ring with tabs on it. The ring can be removed with a couple of large screwdrivers and a channel-lock wrench...use the pliers end of the channel lock to grip one screwdriver and put the screwdriver next to a tab...the other screwdriver is 180º out from the first (around the ring) and the channel lock is used against the two screwdrivers to rotate the ring.
There might even be a video online for audis....my last fuel sender/fuel pump assembly removal was on a Saab.
Just be sure to have all the windows/doors open and ignition OFF. Don't even put the key in the ignition!!
You can cøver the høle in the tank when the pump/unit comes out with a sheet of tin foil while you get the new pump and compare it.
Generally, the fuel pump has to go in the same way it came out for the fuel lines to match up. If the pump is part of the fuel sender assembly and you get a pump only rather than the entire assembly you SHOULD cover up the hole with tin foil while you remove the old pump and put the new pump into the assembly prior to installing the assembly in the tank.
Get out of the car when you do this...only time you should be in the car is removing and replacing the assembly.
I don't know how this particular fuel pump/sender assembly comes out, but they are often held in place with a large-diameter ring with tabs on it. The ring can be removed with a couple of large screwdrivers and a channel-lock wrench...use the pliers end of the channel lock to grip one screwdriver and put the screwdriver next to a tab...the other screwdriver is 180º out from the first (around the ring) and the channel lock is used against the two screwdrivers to rotate the ring.
There might even be a video online for audis....my last fuel sender/fuel pump assembly removal was on a Saab.
03-27-2012, 07:21 AM
#26
AudiWorld Super User
Pretty much old school siphon, but gas today is kind of toxic. I have a siphon hose with a check valve and an accordion section....much safer.
The gas won't kill you but it can make you sick/nauseated.
The gas won't kill you but it can make you sick/nauseated.
03-27-2012, 08:29 AM
#27
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You're better off with more gas than less gas....the less fuel in the tank the more air gets in there...fuel vapors ignite, not gas.
Just be sure to have all the windows/doors open and ignition OFF. Don't even put the key in the ignition!!
You can cøver the høle in the tank when the pump/unit comes out with a sheet of tin foil while you get the new pump and compare it.
Generally, the fuel pump has to go in the same way it came out for the fuel lines to match up. If the pump is part of the fuel sender assembly and you get a pump only rather than the entire assembly you SHOULD cover up the hole with tin foil while you remove the old pump and put the new pump into the assembly prior to installing the assembly in the tank.
Get out of the car when you do this...only time you should be in the car is removing and replacing the assembly.
I don't know how this particular fuel pump/sender assembly comes out, but they are often held in place with a large-diameter ring with tabs on it. The ring can be removed with a couple of large screwdrivers and a channel-lock wrench...use the pliers end of the channel lock to grip one screwdriver and put the screwdriver next to a tab...the other screwdriver is 180º out from the first (around the ring) and the channel lock is used against the two screwdrivers to rotate the ring.
There might even be a video online for audis....my last fuel sender/fuel pump assembly removal was on a Saab.
Just be sure to have all the windows/doors open and ignition OFF. Don't even put the key in the ignition!!
You can cøver the høle in the tank when the pump/unit comes out with a sheet of tin foil while you get the new pump and compare it.
Generally, the fuel pump has to go in the same way it came out for the fuel lines to match up. If the pump is part of the fuel sender assembly and you get a pump only rather than the entire assembly you SHOULD cover up the hole with tin foil while you remove the old pump and put the new pump into the assembly prior to installing the assembly in the tank.
Get out of the car when you do this...only time you should be in the car is removing and replacing the assembly.
I don't know how this particular fuel pump/sender assembly comes out, but they are often held in place with a large-diameter ring with tabs on it. The ring can be removed with a couple of large screwdrivers and a channel-lock wrench...use the pliers end of the channel lock to grip one screwdriver and put the screwdriver next to a tab...the other screwdriver is 180º out from the first (around the ring) and the channel lock is used against the two screwdrivers to rotate the ring.
There might even be a video online for audis....my last fuel sender/fuel pump assembly removal was on a Saab.
04-06-2012, 02:34 PM
#28
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finished the job
hey guys i just want to say thanks again for providing all the great info. I switched out the old fuel pump for the new and my car started up just fine.
However I let it sit for alittle and run but then I got a temperature error so I turned the car off and opened the hood.
this is what i found...
funny thing is the mechnic told me, "hey i think you have a leak in the coolant line somewhere." its like, well ya think?!?
anyone know where i can get a new hose and connector? i guess the part of the three head connector broke off inside the hose.
thanks guys.
However I let it sit for alittle and run but then I got a temperature error so I turned the car off and opened the hood.
this is what i found...
funny thing is the mechnic told me, "hey i think you have a leak in the coolant line somewhere." its like, well ya think?!?
anyone know where i can get a new hose and connector? i guess the part of the three head connector broke off inside the hose.
thanks guys.
04-06-2012, 03:59 PM
#29
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use a brass or aluminum tee fitting, will never break again and is a FRACTION of the cost! audi literally rapes you for those plastic TEEs, like im serious, the parts guy comes around from the counter and rapes you in the middle of the showroom