SimplyANovice

Hi, folks,

I have a 2000 A6 Quattro 2.7L with about 164,000 miles on it. Just recently the car has begun stuttering when accelerating. It seems to idle fine and to drive on level surfaces fine, but when accelerating past a certain speed or when going uphill, the engine begins stuttering.

I'm trying to figure out the problem to do a DIY repair (money is especially tight). Is this a fuel pump problem? fuel filter problem? fuel injector problem? computer problem? or am I completely off base?

I've been told it might be a boost leak in another forum and to pull the codes. Before I figure out how to do that, could a boost leak occur due to a hole in the center muffler? Recently a hanger broke and it bounced enough times to put a hole in it before I could get it wired up. Like I wrote, money is tight so I was going to patch it since it wasn't a rust hole. Or can't a boost leak occur on the exhaust side of the engine?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

4Driver4

This guy has the same problem:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=24132602

L8braker50

I have the same car with the same problem

I borrowed a code reader from a friend and have since bought my own. My code (CEL is on from time to time) is P0300

Solutions suggested are in order from code reader
1) change plugs
2) change fuel filter
3) check and or replace coil packs as they are a chronic problem in these cars....

Try RM European Autoparts for akll of the above: plugs were $7.50, fuel filter $20.00 and coil packs (Factory Audi) are $21.00 each

Prices are uunreal and parts go in tomorrow
Richard
705 444 1314

ECS Tuning-Audi

Exhaust leaks are not boost leaks a boost leak can only occur on the intake side not the exhaust side.

Definitely scan for codes like others have said.

Key things to check are ignition modules, coil packs, spark plugs, boot connectors.

Boost leaks can cause issues as well so do a pressure test while your at it.

Good luck!

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jason

jschick

if the car runs great on idle or no boost, then as said you most likley have a air leak, I would first check the Y boot on the front of the engine, this boot is a very common problem, every time the turbo's wind up this boot expands under pressure, it will eventually rip. when it does all your boost escapes. with no boost the rip closes and the car runs fine. Remove the front plastic cover (the one near the radiator, under it you will see the Black pipes from the turbo which goes into the intake, Not the big silver pipes on top those are not the pressure pipes. but the Y pipe where the 2 pipes go in the intake can rip normally on the bottom so you will probably need to remove at least 1 pipe to check it. I was able to replace mine without removing the main turbo pipes. just loosened the clamps and pull it out carefully

devinsixtyseven

Your description would lead me straight to spark plugs, on a naturally aspirated engine. On this engine, if you had a boost leak at the boot, hopefully you'd hear it...but the effect I've seen described is loss of power, not loss of ignition or misfire.

Spark plugs are very easy to check, and are a necessary regular maintenance item. When were yours last changed? If it was more than 60k, at least inspect them...more than 90k, change them. IIRC standard plugs for this car are platinum, and personally I'd suggest you consider iridium. Some of the other guys may have a different opinion, your wallet may take their side of the issue...it's just a suggestion. Look up the code on Denso's website, search the web for the parts (I bought from Amazon). I know I'm talking plugs here, before you've even pulled codes, but those symptoms are classic for worn plugs...engine running fine at idle and low throttle, stuttering under heavy throttle.

To get at the plugs...

Remove all the tupperware from your engine compartment. Turn the plastic fasteners 90 degrees with a large flathead screwdriver, and gently pull the covers away from the engine. Be careful, the plastic clips are fragile. First pull the front cover in the Y of the silver-painted plastic intake pipe (this is the low-pressure side of the intake), then the covers to either side of the Y, then the covers down lower, over the heads. These require a bit of wiggling.

While you're at it, IIRC there's another cover on the passenger side, and there's another on the driver's side over the power steering fluid reservoir, with some important text underneath.

Clean all the dirt out from under the covers, while you're at it...DIY carwash, use the "spot free rinse" setting, don't pull the trigger, and don't aim directly at anything. You'll thank yourself later. Drive it around for a bit, let all the water evaporate off.

Now that the engine is clean and properly raw, this will help...


The plugs are under the coil packs. The packs are very easy to remove. With a finger, push DOWN on the connector (like you were installing it) while gently prying the tab upward with a finger or small screwdriver. You have to release pressure on the clip to remove it, just like releasing a hand brake...gotta pull a little harder, to depress the button. The connectors should be very easy to slide off.

Gently pull straight out on the coil packs. They are just a snug hand fit with a rubber seal, not a press fit, no threads, nothing...just pull carefully. I released the coolant reservoir for easier access the rear driver's side coil, you'll need a screwdriver and some patience for the plastic tabs, don't break them.

Inspect the business end of each coil. They should be clean and dry.

Next, shoot a little compressed air down each hole (remember, plugs are still in there), and around the head, and it wouldn't hurt to use the nozzle on the vacuum and really make sure everything is clean. You don't want any debris falling down those holes.

You'll need a spark plug socket...3/8" drive SAE standard with a rubber insert is fine. A universal joint helps too, and you'll want a couple of extensions. Inspect the plugs for unusual wear, and consider changing if you're close to the service interval for that type of plug. BTW...I like to wrap some tape around the socket + extension to keep them together, as the alternative is inventing new epithets when the socket stays attached to a freshly installed plug.

To remove the throttle body boot...and you may as well clean the throttle body while you're in there...you must first loosen the clamps at both ends of the black pipes that lead to the boot. Make special note of the tabs on the bottom rear of the pipes, and the slots on the front of the engine covers where they mate. These pipes are on the high-pressure side of the intake. Remove the connectors to the sensors on top of the throttle body and boot, and it's also easier to move the diverter valves out of the way...they just slip in to their boots. Pull the two pipes out of the throttle body boot, loosen the boot where it connects to the throttle body, and carefully pull the boot. You need to remove the clamps from the boot to inspect for tears, as they commonly develop under the clamps.

Remove the throttle body while you're in there...four small (but long) bolts, and use the proper metric hex driver. You'll need a new throttle body gasket (it's a thin plastic piece, costs about 10$, and it'll probably be stuck to the intake manifold), and some throttle body cleaner. The throttle body just comes off, once the bolts are loose. Don't press on the throttle plate, just clean all the black gunk off with a shop towel and TB cleaner. The gunk is oil plus anything that's passed the air filter...you'll see minimal gunk with a paper filter, plenty of gunk with a K&N, and a disturbing amount of crud if you had a hole in the air filter.

Installation is the reverse of removal, add a little anti-seize to the threads, a dab of dielectric grease to the terminals in each connector, and torque the throttle body bolts to IIRC 10 ft lbs, or maybe it was 12. Ask the other guys, they know better.

Reinstall the plastic engine covers on the wall of your garage. Spray the rubber and plastic under the hood with 303 Aerospace Protectant and call it a day.

...Now grab a beer or two and kick your feet up, you're part of the club of cheap bastards with fast, expensive cars .

-Sean