Finally Fixed 077198327A Intake Actuator on my A6 4.2
#31
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how did you unstick the arms ? mine wont move
Ordered 1 inch linkages today. I turned the arms in my fingers. They moved freely. If I shred the diaphragm I'll order new from Lambo or Range Rover next week. Right now both my linkages are simply broken though one of them also has slipped the clip off of the valve/diaphragm.
Linkages from Gruven were $97 with shipping. $800 from local Audi though that includes the valves.
Linkages from Gruven were $97 with shipping. $800 from local Audi though that includes the valves.
#32
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I used a dremel with a small sanding tool to remove the corrosion/gunk from the bushings that the shafts are supposed to turn in.
Remove the connecting rods from the shaft lever arm ball joints and remove the Philips screws that hold the lever arms, so you can pull the arms off with the springs. There is a bracket that you should remove, to get more room. an you can also remove the vacuum motors for even more room.
Then, unbolt the bushing mounts and gradually pry the bushings off the shafts. Mark how they mount on the intake with a marker so you don't put them on upside down.
The shafts will be loose but don't worry because it's not hard to get the back end of the shaft positioned in the intake with a bit of fiddling.
Hone out the bushings with the dremel until the shafts turn freely inside them. I coated the bushings with anti-seize, but grease might be just as good.
Then put it back together and enjoy the better performance and mileage. Takes about an hour to do both sides.
Remove the connecting rods from the shaft lever arm ball joints and remove the Philips screws that hold the lever arms, so you can pull the arms off with the springs. There is a bracket that you should remove, to get more room. an you can also remove the vacuum motors for even more room.
Then, unbolt the bushing mounts and gradually pry the bushings off the shafts. Mark how they mount on the intake with a marker so you don't put them on upside down.
The shafts will be loose but don't worry because it's not hard to get the back end of the shaft positioned in the intake with a bit of fiddling.
Hone out the bushings with the dremel until the shafts turn freely inside them. I coated the bushings with anti-seize, but grease might be just as good.
Then put it back together and enjoy the better performance and mileage. Takes about an hour to do both sides.
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Does anyone know a good engine code scanner ? I have a Iphone 5 and can use that, or just buy a dedicated scanner that i can reset codes with. All i own our OBDII cars so anything with that capability.
Ive replaced the links with the billet 1s and all is good but now i have another issue i want to diagnose.
Ive replaced the links with the billet 1s and all is good but now i have another issue i want to diagnose.
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Does anyone know a good engine code scanner ? I have a Iphone 5 and can use that, or just buy a dedicated scanner that i can reset codes with. All i own our OBDII cars so anything with that capability.
Ive replaced the links with the billet 1s and all is good but now i have another issue i want to diagnose.
Ive replaced the links with the billet 1s and all is good but now i have another issue i want to diagnose.
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i have, but is there a less expensive option ? i just need to read and reset codes, i dont need it to do anything else. someone was saying you can get an interface for iphone 5 that will do it for $20.
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You can get a USB cable on eBay for $10 and use the free version of VCDS (VCDS lite).
Only VCDS reads all modules in the car. OBD-II scanners won't read anything beyond engine.
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uh oh price jump, now the new actuators are $94 ea! We should get gruvenparts to make them as well. anywhere else to buy the pods for $60 like it was before?
http://www.gruvenparts.com/audi-vw-4...-linkage-arms/
I heard from others that the replacement pod from Rover doesnt quite fit correctly and you need the Lambo part. Is this true ?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ETC7150G.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ETC7150G.cfm
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