Forgot anti-seize on plugs
#21
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Shouldn't (never say never) use helicoils on a spark plug hole...use a threadsert. Timesert is one trademark name.
Reason is that a helicoil does not have a correct gasket or seat configuration. Putting a tapered seat spark plug in a hole repaired with a helicoil is not so good. You might get away with it on a regular flat gasket spark plug, but still:
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
Reason is that a helicoil does not have a correct gasket or seat configuration. Putting a tapered seat spark plug in a hole repaired with a helicoil is not so good. You might get away with it on a regular flat gasket spark plug, but still:
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
#22
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Shouldn't (never say never) use helicoils on a spark plug hole...use a threadsert. Timesert is one trademark name.
Reason is that a helicoil does not have a correct gasket or seat configuration. Putting a tapered seat spark plug in a hole repaired with a helicoil is not so good. You might get away with it on a regular flat gasket spark plug, but still:
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
Reason is that a helicoil does not have a correct gasket or seat configuration. Putting a tapered seat spark plug in a hole repaired with a helicoil is not so good. You might get away with it on a regular flat gasket spark plug, but still:
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
#23
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I do not believe for a minute that that plug was sheared due to proper torque and anti-seize. It was over torqued. Plain and simple. Lubricated fastener torque values are only 10% less than dry torque values. If you torqued it to 15 ft-lbs wet you've achieved the equivalent of 16.6 ft-lbs dry. Certainly, that will not shear a spark plug thread housing.
I agree that anti-seize should not be used on any fastener unless it's a very special and uncommon situation, at which point you will probably already know dry torquing is not adequate.
Galvanic corrosion is not an issue between steel, zinc, and aluminum. Look up a galvanic corrosion index.
I agree that anti-seize should not be used on any fastener unless it's a very special and uncommon situation, at which point you will probably already know dry torquing is not adequate.
Galvanic corrosion is not an issue between steel, zinc, and aluminum. Look up a galvanic corrosion index.
#24
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Nope. The spark plug manufacturer will tell you in installation instructions the plug came in if it is necessary. All decent plugs have a zinc plating on the threads for corrosion protection and for anti-galling tendencies when driven into steel.
Secondly, you should not use a torque value to set them. The installation instructions clearly indicate to turn it a certain amount past the seat just to compress the sealing washer. Remember you are not clamping anything with spark plugs. You are just making a compression seal.
Secondly, you should not use a torque value to set them. The installation instructions clearly indicate to turn it a certain amount past the seat just to compress the sealing washer. Remember you are not clamping anything with spark plugs. You are just making a compression seal.
#29
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...you can go here,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_...ing_the_torque
and down the page under "setting the torque" it discusses how lubricating threads increases the preload beyond the typical 75% target elastic elongation of a bolt, which torque values are calculated to. I think the 15 to 25 percent is a little high but it makes a reasonable point.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_...ing_the_torque
and down the page under "setting the torque" it discusses how lubricating threads increases the preload beyond the typical 75% target elastic elongation of a bolt, which torque values are calculated to. I think the 15 to 25 percent is a little high but it makes a reasonable point.
#30
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Moreover, BMW recommends antiseize on NGK plugs. I'll take BMW's word for it.