Just Me

back to - does it happen hen coasting out of gear? that can eliminate a lot of stuff.
(hmm, can you pull it into N while moving? I guess so)

tomo5011

same noise on all roads...just more noticeable on smooth new asphalt

tomo5011

only about 1 K on tires....had noise before I bought new

tomo5011

good question...i will have to try that. Noise is still present in auto position or if i drop it into manual shift mode

Just Me

it will have nothign to do with auto vs manual mode - the diff is still engaged either way.

You need to isolate tranny vs motor vs running gear any way you can.

Sectionalize. Eliminate sections. Concentrate on remainder.

5v/cyl

If the shop is willing to do the tranny again for free then let them do it. It will eliminate a possible cause and not cost you anything. Make sure they check the CV's really good while they are at it and motor mounts to make sure nothing has shifted and binding to cause the noise.

Once you figure it out post back b/c my A4 has had a very similar noise for the last 15k miles. Mine doesn't sound as loud as yours and only does it some of the time (maybe 10% of time). Today was a quiet day, but when the noise is present I can can feel a high pitch vibration through the gas pedal. Be my guinea pig and solve my noise too.

tomo5011

ok i got the vehicle at about 50mph ...normal noise present...i let off on the gas and dropped it into neutral, stayed at about 50 and RPM went down right away as expected to idle...noise totally the same.
I guess this at least tells me that the misc items such as AC, idler puller, alternator ets etc are not the cause...since in park at idle I have no noise.
I think this was a valueable test.

bbach

I have a 2002 A6QA 3.0 L with 102,000 miles, and mine just developed a grinding noise that becomes noticeable above 30 mph, varies directly with speed, and does not change whether it is in neutral of drive. It seems to increase on hard right turns so I changed the left wheel bearing, and this made no difference.
I looked at the EMPI site thinking about changing the drive shaf, and they have the warning notice specifically for Audis and VWs that I have attached.
One post on another forum suggested that he had replaced all the suspension links on the noisy side and this fixed the problem. These can be purchased as a kit form FCP Groton and other suppliers.
I am currently pursuing the idea that an engine mount, likely on the transmission, has sagged and allowed direct contact between the engine/transmission assembly and the body. I'll let you know if I'm successful, and I would appreciate if you would do the same.

69gaugeman

Also, drive at 45 mph along the road and drop the car into neutral. If the noise goes away, transmission. If not, then drive axles, bearings or differential.

Wouldn't be the first time someone damaged wheel bearings during an install.

edit: see you did that already.

Then wheel bearing, driveshaft, brakes or differential.

My guess is wheel bearing

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Put the car up on jackstands under the front and rear lower control arms at the ball joints. Preferably a level surface...LOL!

Start it up and put in drive....use something or someone to hold it at 30mph and walk around the car and listen for the noise. It's highly unlikely that the noise is in all four wheels...it's either in one wheel or the transmission or the rear diff. But you can generally isolate the noise to one wheel or front ør rear øƒ car and then find the component that's making the noise.