RMsALFA

I had rotational noise like that last winter - it started after the tie rod ends were replaced. It turned out to be rust buildup on one of the brake rotors scraping on the caliper (or pad) and eventually went away on it's own.

Why it started after the TRE replacement is a mystery <shrug>

Just Me

rotor rubbing on dust/rock shield? PAd dragging on rotor?

G

RMsALFA

I'm pretty sure it was rust build-up rubbing against the pad(s). That's the only thing I could think of that would go away on it's own.

Montis

I had a similar sounding noise at higher speeds

but in my case it was a piece of gravel that was sandwiched between the brake-pad and disk

bbach

Mine turned out to be the right side wheel bearing, not the left. To find this, I put the car on jackstands, set the speed to 30 mph which is when the sound became quite distinct, then used a probing rod type stethoscope to listen to the sounds from a number of components. When I put it on the right wheel bearing carrier, it was quite noisy, while the left one - with the new wheel bearing - was quite quiet. Changing the right-side wheel bearing got rid of the noise.

2002 A6QA; 97 S6Q (available in Canada only)

Iso Raw

Had this problem after changing axle pushed the plate up against rotor by mistake and it made a rubbing swirling sound as I test drove any time even while braking... so I took a long screw driver between my rim spokes did a little pushing between that rotor and against the plate behind it pushing it away from the rotor boom! no more noise while driving.

Christopher Cameron

Hey, sorry to bring back the old stuff. I have a Quattro thats having a similar problem like this I think, however it sounds like a rollercoaster click in the front left axel. It only happens going down hill 40-60mph in gear (out of gear no noise) mostly on turns, it also does this when I hit 70mph on the freeway. It just started happening recently. Does this sound like my front differential is fkd up? Thanks again!

SloopJohnB@mac.com

and the inner tripod or CV joint.
Look for grease slung around the inside of the wheel and around the transmission output shaft shield if not cuts or breaks in the CV joint boots.

Christopher Cameron

Well I just got home and took the wheel off to check. The boot seems to be in good condition. I'm gonna pull out the axel and check the CV joint. The CV joint is what connects to the differential correct? Where is the inner tripod located at? I should mention I have a a4 b6 3.0 manual (not a a6 c5 sorry for invading). Thanks for the fast reply!

SloopJohnB@mac.com

But you should be able to tell by rotating the wheel/axle. It should have zero play back and forth between wheel and axle, there will be some play in the transmission/diff so hold the axle. You can also turn the wheel all the way out (left on left side, right on right side) and then do the same. You should also be able to tell when driving the car; when the steering wheel is cranked almost all the way one way or the other you'll hear a clicking.

At this point your CV joint or inner tripod/CV joint (some cars have tripod/spider inner joints, others have CV joints something like the outer Rzeppa joint) needs to be replaced. It's easy to replace the outer Rzeppa joint, last one I bought was like $80 but I had it for several years; probably $125 now. The joint doesn't coe with a boot so you'll need a boot kit that includes clamps, C-clip and coned washer and boot. Get a CV joint pliers or clamper...this won't likely be your last CV joint boot!.

Lastly, don't try to use the BF axle bolt to pop off the outer Rzeppa joint off the axle. Get a brass drift punch (a piece of hex or square brass about 8-10" long and smaller than the BF axle bolt) and put it into the axle bolt hole offset a little so it doesn't go into the threaded axle (with the axle out of the car) and holding the joint with the axle handing whack the brass drift with a hand sledge and the axle will pop out.

There is a special tool that can be used that screws into the Rzeppa joint threads and pushes against the axle but then you have another special tool. It's called a pressure spindle #3207, dealer cost $25 but you'll probably pay $45. The inner tripod/CV joint is held to the transmission output shaft flange with six socket head cap screws that use a triple-square tool, NOT a torx or allen head. I generally put them back in with blue loctite since one day they're going to have to come out again....

PS: Lots of how-to on youtube as well. Use gloves...CV joint juice is icky.