2.7Lturbo

they have been my main culprit all along i just dont want to shell out 500+ dollars and have that NOT be the cause of it you know? lol

2.7Lturbo

so if i do decided to fix the axles (does anyone think it could possibly be something else?) i was thinking of just rebuilding the cv joint.

that being said who are good CV joint makers.

FCP groton is one i was looking at, the other is blauparts.

i like fcp groton as they have a lifetime warranty on their parts

suggestions?



honestly at this point the axles are all i can think of, i REALLY REALLY REALLY dont think its the prop shaft, simply because the car drove fine for months after the clutch job, only after i disassembled the entire right cv joint did all these problems start

GTA_Driver

Ok, why dont you balance the back tires too? You're fighting a vibration issue, step #1 is to eliminate tires as the source of the problem.

Next, who knows what you did with your CV joint "fix", and since the problem began after you did this job, tackle this next. Since both outer and inner joints have a problem, get the whole axle.

2.7Lturbo

i should clarify again after getting it up in the air and looking at it, the inner joints on the front look fine, the boots are perfect with no tears, should i still replace the whole axle to be safe or would the outer joints be ok to jsut do?

ill get the back wheels balanced, but i just dont think that will fix the issue. the vibration is annoying but my main concern is the clunking noise and how that could add to the vibration.

like other have said i can balance the wheels all day but its dependent on the guy in the shop, my vibration at highway speed is coming predominantly from the front of the car from the same areas that clunk and ride harsh at lower speeds (front right wheel)

i dunno, i hate suspension/driveline/transmission issues :/

jcman

Kris Hanson posted an interesting remedy about a stainless worm gear clamp that he put on a half shaft to eliminate vibration, so if you make a mark in one position go for a ride than turn the clamp 108 then 90 to find the sweet spot, I do a similar balance on large blower wheels with clips in the vanes.

This way you can at least determine if the axel shaft is an issue.

Just Me

Well, if you're ok with no money but lots of time, you can take them out and check them.

First, make sure they fit properly. If they are original, i don't see how the wouldn't, but i have seem aftermarket replacements that are long, short etc. And i dont see many, i'm not a pro.

Next, hold them in your hand and move them every which way. They should be entirely tight - no play, no clicks, pops, scratchiness, etc. The outers are by far the most susceptible to failure and have the most axes of movement. If they dont move in place, and dont click, rattle, pop etc when you take them out and move them, and if the boots are good and the grease intact - check the rubber, add more grease and return them to their home.

I've never seen one go where the boot had not ruptured. 99.99% of the time the boot goes, grease gets out, dirt gets in and it fails.

G

Just Me

Makers? There's really only one Lobro.

The others package and sell i believe.

raxles.com is the premium supplier in my book - but that's of axles with new german joints (Lobro likely) on each end.

G

2.7Lturbo

should i remove the axles completely or just from the outer knuckle?

also ive checked for play in the shaft, i can slightly rotate both axles with he car in the air, but that could be the transmission allowing them to move

does lobro make just cv joints? id hate to replace two whole axles if the problem is only the outer joints :/

2.7Lturbo

would it be smart to replace the wheel bearings and engine mounts while im at it?

im stuck on whole axle vs join replacements, found lobro for 300 for both sides, i can live with that, i just need to make sure the inner cv joints are ok otherwise im pissing money away lol

socalclimber

Yes, remove axles completely and do a full tear-down, cleaning, and inspection of all joints, noting position of parts for re-assembly. That's what I used to do when I worked on VW's. Haven't checked Bentley if they go into many details recently, but it's a start.

Bad inner joints can cause shudders and vibration that MAY go away or lessen while coasting, and be worst at hard acceleration. Outers usually click on turns when bad.

See this link: http://www.raxles.com/axleparts.aspx