Front Passenger Axle Symptoms?
05-14-2014, 02:16 PM
#11
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So after finally retrieving all of the tools to pull the axle, I will be getting it out today or tomorrow after work to check the joints. Most people said the only speciality tool was the triple square 10mm bit for the spider joint but what a pain to find the damn 17mm hex socket ... I should have just gone to harbor freight to get everything for a quarter of the price but it's over an hour away. I'll post as soon as I see how much play I've got in each joint.
05-14-2014, 04:05 PM
#12
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Sloop, I am going to get back under the car and see what I can feel before pulling it. If inconclusive I'll just pull it to see how things feel without direct pressure on the axle. Do you concur? I would like to say that I'm not going to blindly replace it, just try to diagnose the issue with it out of the car if necessary.
05-15-2014, 04:03 AM
#13
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Sloop, I am going to get back under the car and see what I can feel before pulling it. If inconclusive I'll just pull it to see how things feel without direct pressure on the axle. Do you concur? I would like to say that I'm not going to blindly replace it, just try to diagnose the issue with it out of the car if necessary.
05-17-2014, 10:03 AM
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Well, good news. After getting back under the car today, I was able to solve the problem by installing the new solid tie rod ends. For some reason, I completely ignored them during the control arm installation and went back over it. After barely needing to put any torque on them at all, they flexed back and forth by hand loudly. I feel like a noob for not just replacing them when I got it all in FCPs kit. Tried to get it to the same toe settings but clearly need an alignment after driving it. However, the knocking, clunking, clicking, etc is gone!
Talk about a bitch to get the fused TREs off of the inner tie rod. I had a whole set of tie rods but really just wanted to do the ends since the inners felt fine. I ended up having to PB blast the crap out of them and use my torch to break them free. When reinstalling I put some anti sieze compound in there so should be trouble free for a while.
Thanks for all the help!
Talk about a bitch to get the fused TREs off of the inner tie rod. I had a whole set of tie rods but really just wanted to do the ends since the inners felt fine. I ended up having to PB blast the crap out of them and use my torch to break them free. When reinstalling I put some anti sieze compound in there so should be trouble free for a while.
Thanks for all the help!
05-17-2014, 12:04 PM
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Well, good news. After getting back under the car today, I was able to solve the problem by installing the new solid tie rod ends. For some reason, I completely ignored them during the control arm installation and went back over it. After barely needing to put any torque on them at all, they flexed back and forth by hand loudly. I feel like a noob for not just replacing them when I got it all in FCPs kit. Tried to get it to the same toe settings but clearly need an alignment after driving it. However, the knocking, clunking, clicking, etc is gone!
Talk about a bitch to get the fused TREs off of the inner tie rod. I had a whole set of tie rods but really just wanted to do the ends since the inners felt fine. I ended up having to PB blast the crap out of them and use my torch to break them free. When reinstalling I put some anti sieze compound in there so should be trouble free for a while.
Thanks for all the help!
Talk about a bitch to get the fused TREs off of the inner tie rod. I had a whole set of tie rods but really just wanted to do the ends since the inners felt fine. I ended up having to PB blast the crap out of them and use my torch to break them free. When reinstalling I put some anti sieze compound in there so should be trouble free for a while.
Thanks for all the help!
Either Rustoleum Flexidip or Plasti-Dip
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU
05-17-2014, 01:39 PM
#17
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I wonder if some rubber dip slathered around the threads on the TRE would preserve them too. When you have to take off the TREs, just peel off the rubber dip.
Either Rustoleum Flexidip or Plasti-Dip
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU
Either Rustoleum Flexidip or Plasti-Dip
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU
05-17-2014, 07:27 PM
#18
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It couldn't hurt. That stuff reminds me of a wrinkle/undercoat paint. A bigger question is whether or not there is anything to be done to the rubber bushings on the control arms. Is it worth wiping a coat of grease or something that resists water/elements to preserve the exterior of the rubber? Or is it a waste of time?
05-18-2014, 03:13 AM
#19
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Got it. Well I guess I'll be keeping people posted on the quality of FCP's house brand control arm kit and solid/metal tie rods. Their warranty can't be beat and I found a group buy over at audizine for like $50 cheaper than what they advertise online and it comes with the full tie rods with solid ends. I've already dealt with them before on returns process and they were great so I'm not worried if I have random bushings go bad down the road.
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