frozen rusted tie rod removal made easy
11-01-2005, 10:05 PM
#1
frozen rusted tie rod removal made easy
Hi folks, if this has already been done let me know and I will delete my post. If not, enjoy:
Some of you may come across a frozen outer tie rod and may find this useful. Basically, my outer tie rod was frozen, PB did not do the trick, and heat would probably mess up the plastic accordion like boot, so I pulled out the big guns on this one.
Take a cutoff wheel and cut the tie rod as show in the picture. Leave as much thread as possible.
Remove the original counter lock nut and put a box end wrench on the inner tie rod end.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/84348/tierod1.jpg">
Place a nut back onto the threads that remain. You could use the original nut which is kind of thin, or buy another wider nut that will be sacrificed. Weld the sacrificial nut onto the remaining threads with your welder of chice. Remember to disconnect the battery and place your ground on the nut and nowhere else. This nut now gives you the opportunity to use an impact wrench to break the bond and drive the threaded end out in a hurry. Piece of cake, right?
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/84348/tierod2.jpg">
My new tie rod end did not want to screw in fully. At first I thought it was due to too much anti seize was creating a compression inside the hole as it was being threaded in. I wiped off access and still, it would only screw in about half of the required amount. The fix, drive the old tie rod end (what remains) in and out of the threads with the impact gun and it should do the trick.
The green stuff is algae, the only water I had available came from the Des Plaines River, which runs along the side of the shop. No frogs were hurt in the making of this movie.
Some of you may come across a frozen outer tie rod and may find this useful. Basically, my outer tie rod was frozen, PB did not do the trick, and heat would probably mess up the plastic accordion like boot, so I pulled out the big guns on this one.
Take a cutoff wheel and cut the tie rod as show in the picture. Leave as much thread as possible.
Remove the original counter lock nut and put a box end wrench on the inner tie rod end.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/84348/tierod1.jpg">
Place a nut back onto the threads that remain. You could use the original nut which is kind of thin, or buy another wider nut that will be sacrificed. Weld the sacrificial nut onto the remaining threads with your welder of chice. Remember to disconnect the battery and place your ground on the nut and nowhere else. This nut now gives you the opportunity to use an impact wrench to break the bond and drive the threaded end out in a hurry. Piece of cake, right?
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/84348/tierod2.jpg">
My new tie rod end did not want to screw in fully. At first I thought it was due to too much anti seize was creating a compression inside the hole as it was being threaded in. I wiped off access and still, it would only screw in about half of the required amount. The fix, drive the old tie rod end (what remains) in and out of the threads with the impact gun and it should do the trick.
The green stuff is algae, the only water I had available came from the Des Plaines River, which runs along the side of the shop. No frogs were hurt in the making of this movie.
11-02-2005, 03:30 AM
#2
Thanks for the tips.
I definately could have used those yesterday, before I took a torch to mine. Last night I read a similar post in the AllRoad forum who also suggested welding the nut on. Another idea he had was to use the RED Loctite, on the lock nut if welding was not available.
Too bad I didnt read these before I melted the end of my rubber boot which protects the tie rod. Anybody know if this is replaceable and how much? I can probably fix it up with some new bigger clamps, but Id prefer new.
Too bad I didnt read these before I melted the end of my rubber boot which protects the tie rod. Anybody know if this is replaceable and how much? I can probably fix it up with some new bigger clamps, but Id prefer new.
11-02-2005, 06:49 AM
#7
Re: boot replacement
The plastic boot is replaceable, had to replace the driver's side, cost was around $13 at the dealer. One time use clamp holds it in place on on the inside, and it is a tight fit to get a new clamp on and snug. I used one of those napa zip clamps, like for cv boots, and a pair of needle nose pliers to get her tight, then snipped off the end. Just reuse the outer spring loaded clamp. Make sure to "seat" the boot in the groove on either end.