Redneck Truck

DISCLAIMER:
The procedure outlined herein is what worked for me, as I recall. While it is complete and safe as far as I remember, I may have left out a step or been especially fortunate not breaking or destroying something, injuring myself, or burning my house down. I've followed the same process a few times now, and I know it has worked for me. That said, by following this procedure in whole or in part, you release me from any and all liability for any injury or damage resulting from its use. This procedure is only intended for a 2002+ Audi A6 or earlier C5 A6 4.2. I make no warranty with regard to its suitability for other vehicles, even the earlier A6, the Allroad, the A4, or any other Volkswagen product. Furthermore, If you're clumsy, accident prone, bad at following instructions, chronically unlucky, or can't afford to purchase a new light or any part thereof, you may want to forgo the repairs outlined herein, purchase a clean, fully functional set of headlights now, and sell your foggy or damaged headlights to someone capable of repairing and refinishing them.

THE PHOTOS:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...3&l=1eb16eabd3

THE KIT:
Your headlight refinishing kit needs to come with 3 or 4 grades of sandpaper evenly spaced between 500 and 2500, some fine cut rubbing compound, and some microfiber towels. I spent about 20 bucks on sandpaper and compound and I've got enough paper for a few pairs of headlights and enough compound to buff my car several times. :-)

REFINISHING:
Basically, you're sanding with the coarsest grade until you don't see a difference anymore, and moving to a finer grade until the lights are perfectly clear. The best advice I can give with regard to sanding is to spend more time sanding with each grade than you think you need to. I don't recommend you sand through the lens or anything, but I was irritated several times when I'd moved to finer sandpaper only to realize I should have spent more time with the coarser stuff.

REMOVAL OF LENSES:
Have a liberal quantity of vinyl or latex gloves at hand to avoid fingerprinting anything inside the headlight, either with your own oil or any dirt on the outside of the housing. In the oven, the magic time and temperature for me was 170 degrees (as low as my oven would go and still be powered on) for 10 minutes. My oven may not be accurate, so be conservative with your temperatures - waiting longer or having to adjust the temperature later is much better than starting too hot and melting a lens. Furthermore, don't let any part of the headlight touch any part of the inside of the oven, or you'll have a nice melt mark that will hopefully sand out. When you're taking the headlight apart, do so very carefully, as the glue is stringy like pizza cheese, only stronger, and will snap back and end up on the reflector. Peeling it off the reflector will likely peel the chrome off too (yes, just peeling it. I was surprised, to say the least). From what I've found, the best way to avoid having the glue snap is to cut it with a razor blade after you've pulled the lens and housing apart a bit.

FURTHER DISASSEMBLY:
You may want to disassemble your light further if you determine that the projector lens is dirty or if you have to replace an adjuster. In my experience, the best way to get the reflector off (you must remove the reflector to remove the projector or adjusters) is to use a very small slotted screwdriver, sharpened to an edge, to release the white plastic control arm pieces from the tabs on the reflector. Get the screwdriver between the white plastic and the chrome and twist, releasing it. Don't pry, or you will probably break it. You could probably pull the ball and socket assemblies apart too, but I didn't want to subject my reflector or housing to those kinds of forces, especially since the reason I was disassembling my light was to replace a reflector broken by the previous owner. Stare at it until it makes sense, and be very delicate. I didn't break anything, but you might.

CLEANING:
I caution you against cleaning inside the light when you've got it apart. The chrome is astonishingly delicate and can wipe, peel, and flake right off leaving you with areas that don't reflect light. This is especially annoying and ugly when it happens to your high beam buckets, so resist the urge to scrub, or even wipe, the reflectors. If you don't put any fingerprints inside when you're disassembling, you'll be less tempted, but even where the reflectors look dusty or foggy, just leave it - in my experience, there has almost never been clean chrome under the fog. Cleaning the lens is a different story. Use whatever you think won't destroy the inside of the lens. I used Plexus (get some - it's priceless) and a brand new microfiber towel.

PROJECTORS:
You may want to disassemble the projectors to replace bixenon solenoids, swap in e-code shutters, or just clean the insides of the lenses. Take care when removing the projector from its mounts on the reflector. Use a 9mm wrench hold the studs still on the posts as you loosen the 7mm nuts holding the projector. Pay attention to the orientation and position of the bushings - if you forget how they go, the light probably won't look right, and I can't help you. Once removed, the projector can be disassembled by using a small Torx screwdriver to remove the four screws that hold the reflector stand to the bucket. I removed the lens stand and wiped lots of dirt off the inside of the lens, and I suggest you do the same. As with the headlight reflectors, RESIST THE URGE to wipe the reflective surfaces inside the projectors, as you'll be left with a surface that doesn't reflect light, looks terrible, and may not be able to dissipate the heat of the bulb anymore.

REASSEMBLY:
Reassembly of projectors really is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the 9mm wrench on the stud, or you could break the post off the reflector. Snapping the reflectors back in place takes a good bit of force in the right direction and the right places and probably requires even more care than disassembly. BE CAREFUL. Double check for finger prints, smudges, and dust, because this is your last chance to remove them. Fit the lenses back on the housings, install the spring clips, and throw the headlights back in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Either the oven reactivates the glue or the glue doesn't need to be reactivated, and I'm not sure which. However, before the light goes in the oven, there will be a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the lens and the housing, and when it comes out, the gap is almost closed. You will not need additional adhesive, although if you know where to find the adhesive, I need some for my bike's headlights, as the previous owner put one of them back together with caulk.

CONCLUSION:
Well, there you have it. Your headlights are clean and clear and your car looks like a totally different car. Thanks for reading!

catch2otwo

so you sanded the inside of the lense as well as the outside?

Redneck Truck

No, I used a mild citrus plexiglass cleaner on the inside. Show me where it says I sanded the inside and I'll fix it.

catch2otwo

It doesn't. I must have just misinterpretted the info. Mixed up the cleaning part with refinishing the lense. Getting ready to do mine, thanks for the diy

Redneck Truck

No worries. I've had a set of headlights posted for a while and am continually fielding questions about how I cleaned them, etc, so I thought I'd just post up in hopes that the powers that be would sticky it. I wrote this DIY this morning, off the cuff, so if you find that I left anything out, please let me know so I can include it.

Redneck Truck

Waiting for people to start posting up pictures of the completed job. Anyone? Anyone?

rollerton

How'd you magically get them lights out with the bumper on..? :-)

Redneck Truck

I scratched up the lenses and chewed up the headlight weatherstripping. Pull the bumper. It makes it a lot easier and safer.

Redneck Truck

Removing headlights without removing bumper:
There's a writeup on here.
- hardware is accessed at or through the top of the core support.
- 3 bolts are removed
- harness connector unplugged
- outboard (corner) end rotates away from center of car
- alignment dowel (lower inboard corner of headlight) releases from white plastic bracket
- light lifts over bumper chrome trim (expect trim to chip)
- slides out with a lot of force.

Removing bumper:
- remove 3 10mm-head screws at front of each fender arch
- use two screwdrivers to release 2 mounting tabs retaining each corner grill
- remove 2 upward facing allen bolts exposed by removing the grills
- remove 3 nuts holding bumper to each fender (access from engine bay bottom or top)
- fender ends of bumper pop out of fenders, bumper slides forward and off
- squeeze headlight washer hose clip, remove hose
- unplug both fog lights

and then remove the headlights the same way, but without risking damaging them.

rs4-380

i hate how it's easier to remove the headlights without the bumper, but it's easier to remove the bumper without the headlights.