HELP! Wife wants an Audi TODAY and I know nothing!
11-11-2012, 10:37 AM
#21
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First, i agree with you. In fact i routinely ignore audi's recommendations (often adjusting based on the sue to which i will put it).
2nd however - it depends on the motor. Turbos do have very specific needs and they are biased toward hgih temp and high speed shear performance (500 deg+ and 100k rpm plus).
3rd UOA proves that all oils shear down substantially in 5-7k miles - and some shear vastly more than others. So earlier changes do help - if you need high temp protection in the first place. if you put-put around alaska, who cares? (then put in 0w30)
In my v8 it could be corm oil very likely. In a 2.7t, used hard, maybe not.
Grant
2nd however - it depends on the motor. Turbos do have very specific needs and they are biased toward hgih temp and high speed shear performance (500 deg+ and 100k rpm plus).
3rd UOA proves that all oils shear down substantially in 5-7k miles - and some shear vastly more than others. So earlier changes do help - if you need high temp protection in the first place. if you put-put around alaska, who cares? (then put in 0w30)
In my v8 it could be corm oil very likely. In a 2.7t, used hard, maybe not.
Grant
11-11-2012, 04:04 PM
#22
First, i agree with you. In fact i routinely ignore audi's recommendations (often adjusting based on the sue to which i will put it).
2nd however - it depends on the motor. Turbos do have very specific needs and they are biased toward hgih temp and high speed shear performance (500 deg+ and 100k rpm plus).
3rd UOA proves that all oils shear down substantially in 5-7k miles - and some shear vastly more than others. So earlier changes do help - if you need high temp protection in the first place. if you put-put around alaska, who cares? (then put in 0w30)
In my v8 it could be corm oil very likely. In a 2.7t, used hard, maybe not.
Grant
2nd however - it depends on the motor. Turbos do have very specific needs and they are biased toward hgih temp and high speed shear performance (500 deg+ and 100k rpm plus).
3rd UOA proves that all oils shear down substantially in 5-7k miles - and some shear vastly more than others. So earlier changes do help - if you need high temp protection in the first place. if you put-put around alaska, who cares? (then put in 0w30)
In my v8 it could be corm oil very likely. In a 2.7t, used hard, maybe not.
Grant
Don't get me wrong - I admire the knowledge you and Rohit have on the oil stuff - and it can be useful - but chances are any very high quality synthetic oil will probably suit his needs under normal usage, unless he's in AZ in stop and go traffic all day long.
Beyond that, if he wants to learn how to absolutely minimize wear to the smallest amount possible...he should be watching the two of you debate and he'll learn a bunch (I know I have from you two and I have spent a small amount of time researching the topic, but enough to know that you've spent much more time than I doing the same)...but if he doesn't want to worry about it and needs a heuristic - then I was offering that side.
11-11-2012, 04:07 PM
#23
AudiWorld Super User
While the oil debates are interesting - I have 211K on my car with 10,000 mile changes on whatever I have available that is high-grade. I've used Amsoil 5-40, M1 0-40, T6, etc.
I always use good oil, but beyond that - I don't worry too much about it. I change it about ever 2 months or so.
But - if you want to have the absolute best, sure these arguments may help. But I think 300-350K is doable without too much worry - and I believe I'll prove it on my '04 in the next 2 years.
I always use good oil, but beyond that - I don't worry too much about it. I change it about ever 2 months or so.
But - if you want to have the absolute best, sure these arguments may help. But I think 300-350K is doable without too much worry - and I believe I'll prove it on my '04 in the next 2 years.
I change it every 10K kms, which is 6K miles, and i thought i was pushing it. Or 6 months, whichever comes first. Motul 5w-40 synthetic.
11-12-2012, 05:02 AM
#24
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I'm not sure i agree. Oils are rarely good or bad. They are trade-offs. And for hot conditions and turbos, one should err on the side of thicker, hgiher flash point oils. The failure mode in turbos is
1. turbo bearing gets very, very hot >> flash point of oil
2. turbo stops spinning. Heat soak takes place.
3. Oil now sits in bearing and gets super-heated
4. first it sludges, partially closing oil feed or more likely drain lines
5. then, if extreme, it begins to coke (coke is a diamond-like structure from carbon) which then tears the bearing to shreds
All of this is due to heat >> ability of the oil to remain stable.
The best protection is to cool the car down and idle it after any hard use.
The next best, and good co-protection, is to have oil that sustains hgih temps "better".
HTHS and flash point are the best measures i know for this quality.
Grant
1. turbo bearing gets very, very hot >> flash point of oil
2. turbo stops spinning. Heat soak takes place.
3. Oil now sits in bearing and gets super-heated
4. first it sludges, partially closing oil feed or more likely drain lines
5. then, if extreme, it begins to coke (coke is a diamond-like structure from carbon) which then tears the bearing to shreds
All of this is due to heat >> ability of the oil to remain stable.
The best protection is to cool the car down and idle it after any hard use.
The next best, and good co-protection, is to have oil that sustains hgih temps "better".
HTHS and flash point are the best measures i know for this quality.
Grant
11-12-2012, 01:28 PM
#25
11-12-2012, 01:39 PM
#26
I'm not sure i agree. Oils are rarely good or bad. They are trade-offs. And for hot conditions and turbos, one should err on the side of thicker, hgiher flash point oils. The failure mode in turbos is
1. turbo bearing gets very, very hot >> flash point of oil
2. turbo stops spinning. Heat soak takes place.
3. Oil now sits in bearing and gets super-heated
4. first it sludges, partially closing oil feed or more likely drain lines
5. then, if extreme, it begins to coke (coke is a diamond-like structure from carbon) which then tears the bearing to shreds
All of this is due to heat >> ability of the oil to remain stable.
The best protection is to cool the car down and idle it after any hard use.
The next best, and good co-protection, is to have oil that sustains hgih temps "better".
HTHS and flash point are the best measures i know for this quality.
Grant
1. turbo bearing gets very, very hot >> flash point of oil
2. turbo stops spinning. Heat soak takes place.
3. Oil now sits in bearing and gets super-heated
4. first it sludges, partially closing oil feed or more likely drain lines
5. then, if extreme, it begins to coke (coke is a diamond-like structure from carbon) which then tears the bearing to shreds
All of this is due to heat >> ability of the oil to remain stable.
The best protection is to cool the car down and idle it after any hard use.
The next best, and good co-protection, is to have oil that sustains hgih temps "better".
HTHS and flash point are the best measures i know for this quality.
Grant
I'm not saying that just anything will work - but I consider all of those to be pretty reliable, high quality oils that can withstand a wide range of cold/heat (IMO). The T6 - as I think you've pointed out in other posts- appears to shear to a greater degree and is noticably thinner by the time I drain it, so I've been shortening that up a little to abou 7500 when I change that....
11-17-2012, 01:23 AM
#27
Audiworld Junior Member
Hi, all. Just bought an 04 S-line yesterday. Been researching about it for the past several weeks before finally taking the plunge. Was torn between two sellers' cars, but ended up getting the more local, lower mileage one for slightly higher price. Had PPI done right before and got the go-ahead. Only issues spotted were:
- boots for front axle were torn. I intend to have boots replaced vice getting axles since there were no clicking yet.
- one of the motor mounts looked like it may need replacement as some point.
- car had only 54K miles. PO had for about three years but only put on 9K+ miles on the weekend driver. Do you recommend getting T-belt done now?
- also, besides needing new tires, there are some minor marks (not dents/dings) on the door molding. I have not yet tried to address as car is still at the garage to get 55K mile maintainance done. Will polish or rubbing compound work? Besides a dealer, where can I get some silver touch up paint?
Thanks!
- boots for front axle were torn. I intend to have boots replaced vice getting axles since there were no clicking yet.
- one of the motor mounts looked like it may need replacement as some point.
- car had only 54K miles. PO had for about three years but only put on 9K+ miles on the weekend driver. Do you recommend getting T-belt done now?
- also, besides needing new tires, there are some minor marks (not dents/dings) on the door molding. I have not yet tried to address as car is still at the garage to get 55K mile maintainance done. Will polish or rubbing compound work? Besides a dealer, where can I get some silver touch up paint?
Thanks!
11-17-2012, 05:35 AM
#28
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Congrats and welcome to the community. As to your t-belt; they generally don;t fail on their own -- its a water pump, idler, tensioner or other that begins to fail and takes out the t-belt ( and your valve train).
You have a 9 year old car. I generally do TBs by 75k or 8 years. So, since i'm spending your money, yes. I might do it with my money too - its over and done with. Make sure every rotating part is replaced with an OEM new one.
I'm amazed that all your front control arms are good. Are they really ?
Grant
You have a 9 year old car. I generally do TBs by 75k or 8 years. So, since i'm spending your money, yes. I might do it with my money too - its over and done with. Make sure every rotating part is replaced with an OEM new one.
I'm amazed that all your front control arms are good. Are they really ?
Grant
11-17-2012, 02:36 PM
#29
Audiworld Junior Member
Grant,
What about the front control arms is prone to fail? The bushing or some other part? My mechanic performing the PPI did not mention anything about the control arms and he is pretty comprehensive. The underside of the car was extremely clean and dry with only a minor hint of tranny fluid that was detectable on the front differential box.
I am sure I will be asking for loads of advice from this group. Appreciate the welcome.
What about the front control arms is prone to fail? The bushing or some other part? My mechanic performing the PPI did not mention anything about the control arms and he is pretty comprehensive. The underside of the car was extremely clean and dry with only a minor hint of tranny fluid that was detectable on the front differential box.
I am sure I will be asking for loads of advice from this group. Appreciate the welcome.
11-17-2012, 04:15 PM
#30
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These cars have a complex multi-link suspension. The upper arms in particular each have abushing at one end ( that is nto all that durable) and a ball joint at the other (whcih is undersize). Both fail.
Lower's are also failure prone but last longer. Don't do the "kits" they are generally poor quality - better to replace just what is failing with OEM (TRW or Lemforderer). Search for lengthy and entertaining discussions.
TREs dont last much more than 60-90k either.
Grant
Lower's are also failure prone but last longer. Don't do the "kits" they are generally poor quality - better to replace just what is failing with OEM (TRW or Lemforderer). Search for lengthy and entertaining discussions.
TREs dont last much more than 60-90k either.
Grant
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