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High RPMS while in Drive

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Old 02-20-2013, 09:20 AM
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the engine is screaming and the tach reads 5000 rpm. I have to run in (4) gear until it warms up. What should be the max rpm for 4 at 70mph 3300rpms? Sorry I am very illiterate when it comes to these type of things. Thanks


Originally Posted by JohnnyJ A6Q
Is the engine screaming ? does it sound like 5000 rpm ?
Or are you just going by tachometer ?
Old 02-20-2013, 10:22 AM
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Check my precious post that I edited by adding link to chart, I know it's not the same, but my Son's 02 A6 3.0 will do 65mph at around 2800 rpm, but do see the chart in other post, I already put all your gear ratios in, you just need to change the tire size to match your's.
Old 02-20-2013, 04:08 PM
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Isnt 5000 rpm in 4th like 100 mph? I was rarely out of 4th on the track!
(5HP24a)
Old 02-20-2013, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyJ A6Q
Check my precious post.
Precious indeed!

Old 02-20-2013, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffkruse
the engine is screaming and the tach reads 5000 rpm. I have to run in (4) gear until it warms up. What should be the max rpm for 4 at 70mph 3300rpms? Sorry I am very illiterate when it comes to these type of things. Thanks
You're saying that when the car is cold, it will not up shift and retain gear until 5,000 RPM. Does it up shift then? Or still no?

If that happens at 70mph, that is your 3rd gear. Normally you will have about 3000 RPM @ 60-70 mph, depending on your engine.

When you start driving from a stop, does your 1st gear also reach 5,000 RPM (about 30 mph)?

In any case, checking transmission oil level may be in order and even changing the fluid along with the filter.
Old 02-25-2013, 03:11 PM
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After changing the transmission filter and fluid and $190.00 later. Did not fix the issue. Anyone have any other ideas?
Old 02-25-2013, 05:04 PM
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take it to a repair shop and have it diagnosed would probably be a much better route than throwing money at it
Old 02-27-2013, 05:27 AM
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So I had a import repair shop run the diagnostic tool and found 10 error codes(p0102,p1020,p1137,p1139,p1296,p1453,p1733 p1739,p1744,p1857). Good news is the told me is was not a transmission issue, the said they wanted to start by replacing the Mass Air Flow Meter($300.00). But would not promise that would fix it. I did not have them do it yet. I research MAF and found that you should clean/replace when poor fuel performance or engine running rough, nothing about my previous issue(high rpms when in (D) drive at 40 mph). Because I am new to Audi's can anyone help and tell me if this would fix the issue or is this guy trying to get more money out of me?
Old 02-27-2013, 06:27 AM
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MAF to fix a tranny that won't shift? Run, don't walk away from that shop.

Don't worry, they aren't smart enough to find you

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Old 02-27-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffkruse
So I had a import repair shop run the diagnostic tool and found 10 error codes(p0102,p1020,p1137,p1139,p1296,p1453,p1733 p1739,p1744,p1857). Good news is the told me is was not a transmission issue, the said they wanted to start by replacing the Mass Air Flow Meter($300.00). But would not promise that would fix it. I did not have them do it yet. I research MAF and found that you should clean/replace when poor fuel performance or engine running rough, nothing about my previous issue(high rpms when in (D) drive at 40 mph). Because I am new to Audi's can anyone help and tell me if this would fix the issue or is this guy trying to get more money out of me?
You can check the codes here:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...6/P0102/000258

Not sure about your model, the MAF for my 3.0 is secured with two tamperproof torx, but otherwise very easy to remove. You just need to be careful when removing it since it's got an o-ring inside. You can get CRC MAF cleaner from nearby store to try to clean it or at least that's where I would start

Here is a write up for a BMW, you get the idea:
http://e36-tech.com/DIY/cleaning_maf.htm


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