how deep should these seals be installed ?
03-21-2008, 06:30 PM
#22
AudiWorld Super User
A slow learner? You don't have a good indy shop working for you, just for your money!..
Don't replace seals, just keep good ones working indefinitely. Snake oil!
03-21-2008, 06:51 PM
#24
AudiWorld Super User
I had a similar problem on my 4.2. I scored the cam trying to remove the old seal.
it was leaking like crazy so I tried repolishing the end of the cam which helped but didn't solve it completely. I then came up with an idea that has worked for about 20k miles and still going strong:
I looked behind the cam and noticed that there was plenty of room. So, I took two seals and using high temp epoxy, glued them back to back. I then installed them as far as they would go.
I used my infrared thermo to make sure that the cam temp never gets hotter than the rating on the epoxy and there's about 75 degrees to spare.
Seems to do the trick, it would be hard for oil to leak past two new seals. I have a pic if you want to see it.
Bob
I looked behind the cam and noticed that there was plenty of room. So, I took two seals and using high temp epoxy, glued them back to back. I then installed them as far as they would go.
I used my infrared thermo to make sure that the cam temp never gets hotter than the rating on the epoxy and there's about 75 degrees to spare.
Seems to do the trick, it would be hard for oil to leak past two new seals. I have a pic if you want to see it.
Bob
03-21-2008, 07:00 PM
#26
AudiWorld Super User
two deals in series are no better than one! The first must leak to provide the necessary lub for...
second to survive. Just lucky, IMO! If you can't polish the shaft to a micro finish, don't replace the seal! DFI if IAB!
03-21-2008, 08:24 PM
#28
AudiWorld Super User
Not a slow learner. I did the TB maintenance service last July & the original front seal...
starting leaking after that service. AFAIK, the primary reason for the seal to initially start leaking was a plugged suction pump, which I didn't find out about until the local Audi dealer parts man informed me of this problem while I was buying another crank bolt for my 4th seal job. He had the same problem on his 30V V6 when one of the Audi dealer techs (who had replaced his seals) told him about the suction pump issue. Since there is nothing in the Bentley Manual, and no DTCs are tripped for a plugged suction pump, you would never check it unless someone clues you in to this problem.
Since I personally had done all of the seal replacments, I thought I would try my local inde shop, who are very good, to see if they had any ideas. Because I had done all of the "experimenting", I prepared a three page write-up, listing everything I had replaced/tried, and provide photos of both the OEM (Kraco) and Victor Reinz seals installed, as well as a photo of the crank w/o a seal installed. The service advisor reviewed my write-up and check all of his resources for potential fixes. He called me back and said that I had essentially done everything that they would have tried, so he couldn't offer any more help (not even tried to ripped me off). I also gave a copy of the write-up to the Audi dealer service advisor, but he never called me back. FWIW, I have previously posted on the C4 and 12V forums seeking suggestions without any solutions.
So, the only money I have paid out for each seal replacment is for the crank bolt ($13) and seal ($7), plus two hours of my time. No payments to any shop.
Your suggestion seems reasonable, so I have nothing to loose except another $20 to try it out. Becasue my engine only has 70K original miles on it, there shouldn't be any problem with the crank surface (and I haven't felt or seen any scratches/nicks), and no reason why that seal should leak. If your suggestion solves this problem, I'll give you all the credit on the Audi World forums. Thanks.
Since I personally had done all of the seal replacments, I thought I would try my local inde shop, who are very good, to see if they had any ideas. Because I had done all of the "experimenting", I prepared a three page write-up, listing everything I had replaced/tried, and provide photos of both the OEM (Kraco) and Victor Reinz seals installed, as well as a photo of the crank w/o a seal installed. The service advisor reviewed my write-up and check all of his resources for potential fixes. He called me back and said that I had essentially done everything that they would have tried, so he couldn't offer any more help (not even tried to ripped me off). I also gave a copy of the write-up to the Audi dealer service advisor, but he never called me back. FWIW, I have previously posted on the C4 and 12V forums seeking suggestions without any solutions.
So, the only money I have paid out for each seal replacment is for the crank bolt ($13) and seal ($7), plus two hours of my time. No payments to any shop.
Your suggestion seems reasonable, so I have nothing to loose except another $20 to try it out. Becasue my engine only has 70K original miles on it, there shouldn't be any problem with the crank surface (and I haven't felt or seen any scratches/nicks), and no reason why that seal should leak. If your suggestion solves this problem, I'll give you all the credit on the Audi World forums. Thanks.