ultimate2.7tt

ok guys i went out and bought a 12" sub (pioneer ts-w308d4 to be exact) i also bought a ported box, 8 gauge amp kit, and a hi/lo kit. The hard part is the hi/lo kit i have no earthly clue as to where to install it because the point of the hi/lo kit is to be able to keep the stock radio (so it's less likely to get stolen) instead of replacing it with an after market one. The installer told me not to install the hi/lo kit behind the radio cuz it would be really dificult and told me some half *** way of piggy backing off of the rear driver's side mid bass speaker (the one on the bottom part of the door) but i would really like to install behind the radio, so that is why i thought i'd ask ya'll and get as much advice as possible. Thx to all that help me out :-)

pic info
1) subwoofer
2) box
3) 8 gauge amp kit(left)
4) hi/lo kit(right)

nickorf

I used the line converter from the sub/amp combo in the trunk. You can get the hi inputs from there as well as the remote wire for the amp. Im sure you can run it from behind the radio, just find the speaker outputs and splice into those. I have taken my subs and amps out of my car, but can take a look at the amp/sub in the trunk and see if I can tell which wires I was able to splice into for you if you'd like.

vinrock

Have you looked into using the stock Bose subwoofer amp to drive that Pioneer 12? The way it looks, you're missing an amplifier unless you were planning on running the sub off your Symphony head unit.

You take the line converter box, splice into a rear speaker output on the head unit, and run RCA cables to the amp that's going to drive your sub. Run the power wire into your car's cabin making sure the fuse is as close to the battery terminal as possible. Splice into ignition power for the remote lead and run all these wires (12v/Ign/RCA) to where you'll be mounting your amp. Find a good place to run the black ground wire to, making sure to scrape off any crud/coating on the metal with sandpaper or something abrasive. Hook everything up and you're good to go.

If you don't already have an amp, make sure you pick one up that's got a built in crossover. You're gona want a 2ch stereo amp that's bridgeable or a single-channel mono sub amp 300w or better for that thing to bang.

ultimate2.7tt

ok i will try that this weekend and post how it goes, and if you could put up some pics that would be greatly appreciated thx alot

ultimate2.7tt

i have an 800 watt visonik amp that is bridgable and 2ch to power the sub oh and it also has a built in crossover too, thx for the instructions i really appreciate it thx alot

vinrock

No prob, just a heads-up 8 gauge is pretty thin. If you pop fuses don't go replacing them with a higher rated fuse only; run a thicker power/ground wire that can handle a bigger fuse without being overloaded by the current draw from your amp. If you bang it hard and your lights dim when the bass hits add a 1/2 - 1 farad capacitor between the power wire and your amp and that'll fix it.

nickorf

Ill take pics of the factory amp wiring harness when I get home tonight to try and show you what wires to tap into.

ultimate2.7tt

plz plz i am doing this today and i cant figure out what wires to tap into i need help

nickorf

Sorry I wasnt on the forum for awhile. I tried to take pics of mine but without the t-taps in you really couldnt see much. I used the all white wire as the remote wire and then the blue/red wires and blue/light blue wires to hook up the speaker level inputs into the line converter. hope this helps.