divil

No worries, we've all been there. OK I think I understand the problem - I thought you had done the belt with the tools already - once you do, you'll see how foolproof it is. It works like this: you don't care about what position the cam sprockets are in relative to he shafts, because the locking bar does not attach to the sprockets at all. It sets the timing of the shafts, not the sprockets. Actually, there is a little bracket that is keyed onto the end of the shaft (kind of diamond shape), and that is what the locking bar attaches to. You will remove the bracket but it's keyed so it will only fit back on 1 way. When the locking bar is in place, the camshafts are timed 100% correctly relative to TDC. The crank is 100% relative to TDC because the locking pin you inserted into the crank case only goes in when the crank is at TDC. So now everything is timed perfectly - but the sprockets can still be loose on the camshafts at this point, thereby allowing the belt to tension evenly. Once the tensioner is released on the belt, you torque down the bolts that squeeze the sprockets onto the shaft, remove the cam locking bar, remove the crank pin, and turn it over by hand to make sure it's all right. It will be

Does that make sense? It's different to how a lot of cars are timed so a lot of people don't follow it. But if you follow the factory procedure you will have 100% perfect timing, even if you didn't before

slowguy

Yes, it makes sense. Like you said, I will see exactly what is going on when I remove the cam sprocket. I will get the bar and crank lock pin on order and do the whole front end at the same time (tensioners, tstat, water pump, belt, etc.). Would you recommend renting the whole kit from blauparts or do you think if I purchase the lock bar and crank pin for 70 on ebay that will be enough? The kit rental is only a week and I like to take my time, but I want to be sure there are no other special tools I will need once I get started removing stuff (like a puller for the cam sprocket, etc.).

divil

I recommend buying the bar and pin for $70 if you can - that's exactly what I did. Those 2, and the chain tensioner tool (#3366) are the only special tools you need. You can get by without a puller, but I would buy or rent one from one of the auto stores. I think you want one around 4"...I had a 5" or 6" one and it was too big...it worked but was a real PITA. I have read on this forum that you can just tap the shaft with a hammer and make the sprocket pop off but I couldn't get it to happen with the kind of force I was comfortable with. Do not hit the sprocket off the shaft from behind.

The Blau pulley holder is nice for counter holding the fan pulley, but a good grippy pair of gloves, combined with a rubber strap wrench proved enough for me. Just remember it's reverse threaded.

The Blau kit is awesome but has tons of stuff you can manage without, and as you say there's a limited time on it. Plus, you can only rent it with the purchase of the parts. Having your own cam bar and crank pin gives some piece of mind in case you ever have to go back in there

slowguy

Thanks again for all your advice....it is invaluable to me. Your words will make my project so much less stressful.