I'm depressed PLUS what I learned about Audi Loyalty Program
04-15-2003, 03:30 PM
#1
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I'm depressed PLUS what I learned about Audi Loyalty Program
With all of the recent talk about Audi sales being down, the Loyalty Program, and cheap financing, I decided to at least look into upgrading from my current 2000 A6 2.8q to a new 2003 4.2 or possibly 2.7T. I visited Rector Motors yesterday and learned:
1. If you go from a 1997+ A6 to a 2003 A6, the Audi Loyalty Program kicks in $2000 ($250 of which is contributed by the dealer). Not bad.
2. The Loyalty Program runs until July 31st. Also not bad.
3. Audi Financial Services is selling money at 2.9% for up to 60 months. Pretty good.
4. You can take advantage of BOTH the Loyalty Program and the 2.9% financing.
So far, so good. Even better, they had my "ideal" 4.2 (Ming Blue, Platinum, Preferred, Sport, Cold Weather) <i>in stock!</i> Can you believe it?
Now for the bad news. First, they wanted too much for the car. He quoted me $51,900 on a car with an M.S.R.P. of $53,760 and an invoice of $48,556. I told him that $50K made more sense to me, he came back "confident" that he could do the deal for around $50,900. End of haggling...I'm pretty sure we can come up with a mutually agreeable (and fair) number.
Where it died was the point at which we began talking about my trade-in value. He said he couldn't go much above $18,500 trade-in on my car, even though he figures it would sell for around $27 - 28K! I expected to take a hit, but not one that big. I ought to be able to get an easy $26K for the car if I actually decide to sell it (which I'd only do if I was to then go ahead and by a new one).
I'm not sure which way to go here. As most of you know, I love my car, even though it's "only" a 2.8q. I ordered it from the factory, it's set up nicely (leather, moonroof, xenons, auto-dimming mirrors, memory seat/mirrors, cold weather), and I just put on the new wheels, tires, and Eibach Pro System. It only has 31000 miles on it. Other than the fact that it's not a "hi-po" version, it's perfect for me. Is it worth it to upgrade to a 2003 4.2 for what will amount to another $25K? I don't know. What I DO know is that I love that V8 in the 4.2!
1. If you go from a 1997+ A6 to a 2003 A6, the Audi Loyalty Program kicks in $2000 ($250 of which is contributed by the dealer). Not bad.
2. The Loyalty Program runs until July 31st. Also not bad.
3. Audi Financial Services is selling money at 2.9% for up to 60 months. Pretty good.
4. You can take advantage of BOTH the Loyalty Program and the 2.9% financing.
So far, so good. Even better, they had my "ideal" 4.2 (Ming Blue, Platinum, Preferred, Sport, Cold Weather) <i>in stock!</i> Can you believe it?
Now for the bad news. First, they wanted too much for the car. He quoted me $51,900 on a car with an M.S.R.P. of $53,760 and an invoice of $48,556. I told him that $50K made more sense to me, he came back "confident" that he could do the deal for around $50,900. End of haggling...I'm pretty sure we can come up with a mutually agreeable (and fair) number.
Where it died was the point at which we began talking about my trade-in value. He said he couldn't go much above $18,500 trade-in on my car, even though he figures it would sell for around $27 - 28K! I expected to take a hit, but not one that big. I ought to be able to get an easy $26K for the car if I actually decide to sell it (which I'd only do if I was to then go ahead and by a new one).
I'm not sure which way to go here. As most of you know, I love my car, even though it's "only" a 2.8q. I ordered it from the factory, it's set up nicely (leather, moonroof, xenons, auto-dimming mirrors, memory seat/mirrors, cold weather), and I just put on the new wheels, tires, and Eibach Pro System. It only has 31000 miles on it. Other than the fact that it's not a "hi-po" version, it's perfect for me. Is it worth it to upgrade to a 2003 4.2 for what will amount to another $25K? I don't know. What I DO know is that I love that V8 in the 4.2!
04-15-2003, 03:50 PM
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Get the 2.7. His # sounds right on your trade.
If they take it in for $18,500 they still have to certify it ($1000), fix anything that MIGHT be wrong with it...could cost them anywhere from $500 to $3000. And then they have to clean it and all that crap.
So they will probably own the car...all said and done for around $21K. They will ask $26,900 certified and some guy will talk them down to $24000 or something because he/she wants a deal too.
I would tell them you want a 2.7 for $1000 over and you want $19500 for your car...then JUMP!
So they will probably own the car...all said and done for around $21K. They will ask $26,900 certified and some guy will talk them down to $24000 or something because he/she wants a deal too.
I would tell them you want a 2.7 for $1000 over and you want $19500 for your car...then JUMP!
04-15-2003, 04:01 PM
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Try selling yourself. Also, ignore the loyalty program when negotiating, and try to get closer to
invoice. I got my car for $1000 over invoice, then handed them the coupon for $1000 loyalty. This was two years ago when cars were selling much better. It was near the model year end, though. You could certainly get an 03 for that good a deal, then kick in the loyalty money and get it $1000 below invoice, net. And, year end is right around the corner... they see it coming and are afraid.
Once I came in to get the car, a salesperson (not the one I had made the deal with) tried to up the price. He said "Don't you think it that isn't really a fair price for us?" I responded "all I know is that is the most I'm willing to pay." (silence) End of conversation. What are they going to do, send you out the door? They cheerfully wrote it up.
Keep in mind, they will charge you tax on the loyalty rebate. I didn't argue, because I didn't have any reason to distrust them. You might look into this first to see if it is actually required.
The market sucks right now. They should be really hurting. Don't give in early. Your frustration is their friend, so stay calm and patient. Time is on your side in every respect.
One thing you can do is negotiate a really good price while letting them think you are trading in. Then, once all have agreed, say "I think I'll keep the trade it." This way, while they are thinking they will screw you on the trade in, they are more likely to allow a better selling price on the new car. Done all the time; they do worse to you. Perfectly ethical.
Then sell the car yourself. No point in trading in, ever.
You should sell your wheels/tires separately and put your stocks back on. You won't get as much on the car, in general. Or at least price them separately, and let the buyer choose. But leave them on the car when you show it.
Once I came in to get the car, a salesperson (not the one I had made the deal with) tried to up the price. He said "Don't you think it that isn't really a fair price for us?" I responded "all I know is that is the most I'm willing to pay." (silence) End of conversation. What are they going to do, send you out the door? They cheerfully wrote it up.
Keep in mind, they will charge you tax on the loyalty rebate. I didn't argue, because I didn't have any reason to distrust them. You might look into this first to see if it is actually required.
The market sucks right now. They should be really hurting. Don't give in early. Your frustration is their friend, so stay calm and patient. Time is on your side in every respect.
One thing you can do is negotiate a really good price while letting them think you are trading in. Then, once all have agreed, say "I think I'll keep the trade it." This way, while they are thinking they will screw you on the trade in, they are more likely to allow a better selling price on the new car. Done all the time; they do worse to you. Perfectly ethical.
Then sell the car yourself. No point in trading in, ever.
You should sell your wheels/tires separately and put your stocks back on. You won't get as much on the car, in general. Or at least price them separately, and let the buyer choose. But leave them on the car when you show it.
04-15-2003, 04:15 PM
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I would expect around a $20k trade or $22-24k private-party sale...
you might be able to get $25-26k with the new wheels and suspension...of course, this is just my opinion...
I think, pre-loyalty incentive...you should be able to get a 4.2 for around $1500 over invoice...or so...
Don't be fooled by them...they 'just' sold a 2002 4.2 brand new that had been laying around for a year...so even though they don't have many 4.2s, they aren't selling many either.
I would suggest selling your car on your own in your own time, whilst keeping track of that particular car (although a similar car could likely be found elsewhere in California)...and when you have a buyer, go buy the 4.2 (you still have the VW right? so, you won't be carless, will you?)...
Just my opinion...good luck Mike...a pristine A6 at the right price will sell quickly...mine sold with virtually no effort (sig pic only) in a couple weeks (or less...I don't remember how long the sigpic was up there)...
I think, pre-loyalty incentive...you should be able to get a 4.2 for around $1500 over invoice...or so...
Don't be fooled by them...they 'just' sold a 2002 4.2 brand new that had been laying around for a year...so even though they don't have many 4.2s, they aren't selling many either.
I would suggest selling your car on your own in your own time, whilst keeping track of that particular car (although a similar car could likely be found elsewhere in California)...and when you have a buyer, go buy the 4.2 (you still have the VW right? so, you won't be carless, will you?)...
Just my opinion...good luck Mike...a pristine A6 at the right price will sell quickly...mine sold with virtually no effort (sig pic only) in a couple weeks (or less...I don't remember how long the sigpic was up there)...
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04-15-2003, 04:34 PM
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The world is not screaming out for
used A6s, unfortunate as that may be for owners. Esp. with Audi pushing new ones so hard.
His number may be right. You need to find some actual used car sale prices in your area, NOT asking prices. Beware, you could get really bummed.
His number may be right. You need to find some actual used car sale prices in your area, NOT asking prices. Beware, you could get really bummed.
04-15-2003, 04:39 PM
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Sell your car privately.
I had the 2001 4.2 on a terrible, terrible lease deal. I was able to buy it out, sell it and take 'only' about a $2,500 loss.
Also, definitley-definitely-definitely make your best deal (it should still be in that range that you mentioned at worst) and <i>then</i> you should get your Loyalty Program discount. Don't for a second let them feel that that is part of the negotiations. It shouldn't be - in any way. You should be able to sell your car for....whatever you can get, then negotiate the &#36;50K buying price on the 4.2 and <i>then</i> get the &#36;2K additional discount off for the Loyalty Program.
You should do it. The 4.2 would offer a pretty sweet driving experience compared to your 2.8, and you shouldn't have to take the resale hit from the dealer. A little bit more legwork (but not much, as in my experience, and ask Finman how hard it was to sell...) but it will be well worth it!
Also, definitley-definitely-definitely make your best deal (it should still be in that range that you mentioned at worst) and <i>then</i> you should get your Loyalty Program discount. Don't for a second let them feel that that is part of the negotiations. It shouldn't be - in any way. You should be able to sell your car for....whatever you can get, then negotiate the &#36;50K buying price on the 4.2 and <i>then</i> get the &#36;2K additional discount off for the Loyalty Program.
You should do it. The 4.2 would offer a pretty sweet driving experience compared to your 2.8, and you shouldn't have to take the resale hit from the dealer. A little bit more legwork (but not much, as in my experience, and ask Finman how hard it was to sell...) but it will be well worth it!
