Grapeking

So, assuming FedEx comes through and I get my CV boots from PureMS (thanks, Mike!) tomorrow, I'll be tackling the CV boot job tomorrow night.

I see two different methods for doing this:

1. Kris Hansen's tech article shows one method:

<a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml">Kris Hansen's method</a>


2. "Hellsditch" describes a different method that entails removing the axle from the car - which doesn't sound that difficult and would allow me to work on the CV joint in my shop (inside the house) vs. in the cold garage. Here's the link to that method:


<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/568571.phtml">Hellsditch's method&gt;</a>

So here's the question for all you experts who've done this job before: are there any reasons to prefer one method over the other (aside from my desire to work inside, if possible)?

Thanks in advance for the help!

tybmw

boot. I figured it was fine but I would never be closer. And for $12 I didn't want to have to work on the same axel again...

02 Silver Arrow

I did not take the axel out. Personally I think it is easier to have the car help in supporting the axel instead of wrestling the floppy greasy piece of metal anywhere in the house. The biggest issue as others have noted is the pinch bolt I used an impact hammer and heat to convince the darn thing to move, this still took close to an hour. get a spare pinch bolt as you will ruin the existing one upon removal. I also removed the ball joint to allow more access. Once you get those two items out the actual boot removal and replacement is straight forward an take 20 minutes to a half hour.
Hope this helps just my opinion. I think you could have the boot replaced in about the same time it takes to remove the entire axel.

4Driver4

...I know a few guys that work at the local VW dealer who unbolt the entire upper assembly (three bolts under the hood) and pull the suspension downward and out to give enough clearance to pull the outer joint out of the hub. Much faster and no pinch bolt.

Flint'sA6

Getting the joint back on seems to be the toughest part, and there's not alot of wiggle room to in there. Maybe it's a grass-is-greener thing (i've never done the whole-axle method), but it seems to me that it'd save some pain &amp; suffering,especially in the cold.

RLG

Late at night. When no one's watching.

Just kidding.

but I really did pull the axle.

GPZ

I have yet to do mine, but I have replaced control arms and inspected the design.

I have also had to change NUMEROUS CV boots on my Isuzu, which has eaten boots at an alarming rate due to it being lifted and having a greater angle on the joints. The last set of boots I put on are Supertech boots, and they've held up really well so far.

The reason that I advocate method #2 and take the entire axle off is because this will give you the perfect opportunity to replace both inner and outer boots, and to completely clean, inspect and regrease both inner and outer joints. It may take more time, but in the end it is time well spent.

Let us know how it turned out.

absolutcq20v

Loosen axle bolt &amp; lugs on ground.
Lift/support vehicle, remove wheel.
Remove tie rod and upper arms (&amp; pinch bolt) from support member.
Pop axle out of hub, reinstall axle bolt to push CV off.
Cut old clamp/boot off, clean CV out, install new grease.
Install reverse of removal.

YMMV, but it works well for me.
Of course, the option of a warm house v. cold garage would incline me to pull the whole axle. :P

Kris Hansen

were so tight, I had a hell of a time getting it started. Removing the axle is easy, IF you have the right tools.

Kris Hansen

at least for working on the axle itself. If you have air tools, long and flex extensions, and a 10mm triple square, go for it. I should add that to my writeup one of these days.