Djsal5

1999 audi A6 2.8L recently had the oil changed the mechanic said that my real axle was leaking bad? there is no check engine he said it was from normal wear and tear. i was wondering is there a seal i can purchase and i know when you drain it you need to put a certain amount back in any help thanks

4Driver4

Need more information to help. What exactly is leaking?

Djsal5

He told me the real axle seal does this help is it tranny fluid or gear fluid

Djsal5

i wanna get it on my own lift i apreciate any advice and input you have i am sure to have a detailed examination of the car to tell you what exactly leaking but if you have a good idea i would greatly appreciate you ideas!

4Driver4

There are two rear axels, one diff seal each, so it could be one of those. A more common leaks is at the tailshaft seal of the trans where the center drive shaft connects. All are Audi synthetic gear oil.

Djsal5

tailshaft seal thats has to be it.. beside the oil what is the procedure to fix it?

4Driver4

It's definitely not rocket science. Drop exhaust from the cats back, unbolt center driveshaft from transmission and push it off to the side, remove flange and change seal. There might be a write-up in the tech section, or you could use Bentley.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Check with an audi dealer for TSB on the flange nut torque.

I had an incident a few years ago with a volvo and repeated pinion bearing seal....the volvo repair manual stated a new crush sleeve was required and set the preload with an ounce scale, i.e., 4-5 inch-lbs to turn the pinion, or to count the number of turns of the nut. Not wanting to set the preload with a new crush sleeve, I tried counting turns...seal failed in about 10K miles although bearing was ok. Then I took the car into a volvo club DIY and the tech mentioned that volvo had a TSB and simply set the flange nut torque at 48 lb-ft. He also had the handy tool that holds the pinion flange while you tighten the BF nut!

That's the other trick...you need to hold the flange rather than lock the rear brakes. Put a couple of the bolts/nuts back into the naked flange after you've dropped the driveshaft (don't forget to mark the mating flanges AS WELL AS THE SPLINES ON THE PINION SHAFT so you can put the pinion flange back on exactly the same way. Otherwise it's a potential driveshaft vibration. With the nut/bolts tightened up on the naked flange you can use a box wrench on one of the bolts and jammed up against the next bolt to hold the flange. Or you could fabricate a holding tool with a Y-shaped piece of 1/4" steel drilled at the legs to hold two bolts at 180 degrees on the flange.

Djsal5

Thanks guy i just called audi/vw the synthetic gear oil is used both for audi and vw for that year its 49.95 for a liter but the tech told me when i redue the seal it only calls for 3/4 of a liter...now i have got the oil where do i order the seal from same...Audi right?

Djsal5

i found the oil 50 buck a liter what else should come with replacing this seal obvioulsy the seal it self oil purchase and what else thats for being patient with me i plan on modding out the 30v down the road wit PES Supercharger i just want everything in working order thank you