Mintex red box noise help!
#11
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pad to leave an even coating of pad material on them. This is because the rotors are probably grooved significantly. It can be done with correct bedding in which in the case of street pads is around 8-10 stops 60-10 (approx) and you may need to do it 3 or 4 times but with cooiling and regular use in between. Each stop should be progressively harder and at the end the ABS should activate slightly and you should smell the linings and may see some smoke. I had Mintex Red on my rear and now have Axxis Deluxe Plus all around (Stoptechs in front). It is the cleanest pad I know of by far (noticeably cleaner than the Mintex), generally very quiet and gives very solid high performance for the street. Call David Zeckhausen at Zeckhausen Racing (zeckhausen.com) if you are interested in the pads. He's extremely knowledgeable. Let me know if I can help you further.
#12
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it's not really possible that the rotors could be grooved because I just got them machined (resurfaced, turned, there are many terms for it).
I did however, get to complete many 60-10 stops last night, like around 12-14 total (experienced some fade and smelled pads towards end of runs), and the problem seems to be going away. It's still there, but at a different speed and pedal pressure. I will have to wait till night again to try and further bed them in.
About the Deluxe Plus pads. Are these that much different than the regular deluxe pads? Are they full organic? The reason I ask is because I have never seen deluxe plus pads for the C5 A6's 288mm rotors. I know that they have metal masters for the 288mm rotors, but not metal master front and back; only front. Maybe I just haven't found a website or shop that sells front and back sets of either the Deluxe Plus or Metal Masters.
I did however, get to complete many 60-10 stops last night, like around 12-14 total (experienced some fade and smelled pads towards end of runs), and the problem seems to be going away. It's still there, but at a different speed and pedal pressure. I will have to wait till night again to try and further bed them in.
About the Deluxe Plus pads. Are these that much different than the regular deluxe pads? Are they full organic? The reason I ask is because I have never seen deluxe plus pads for the C5 A6's 288mm rotors. I know that they have metal masters for the 288mm rotors, but not metal master front and back; only front. Maybe I just haven't found a website or shop that sells front and back sets of either the Deluxe Plus or Metal Masters.
#13
AudiWorld Super User
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if your really getting the pads warm and they still squeak then your rotors are probably too badly worn.
Check this link out for bedding procedures and other info.<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm">Stoptech brake article</a></li></ul>
Check this link out for bedding procedures and other info.<ul><li><a href="http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm">Stoptech brake article</a></li></ul>
#14
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The car has about 83k miles on it and I don't know when the last time the rotors were changed. I did have them turned as mentioned when I changed the pads.
Do you have any reccomendations on rotors? I was thinking either solid (OEM or brembo) or slotted rotors (from brembo or power slot, or even DBA if I'm willing to spend that much on a pair of rotors). Should I do front and rear? Or front slotted and rear solid?
TIA
Do you have any reccomendations on rotors? I was thinking either solid (OEM or brembo) or slotted rotors (from brembo or power slot, or even DBA if I'm willing to spend that much on a pair of rotors). Should I do front and rear? Or front slotted and rear solid?
TIA
#15
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recommend that you call Dave at Zeckhausen. Tell him I suggested it. He is very helpful. If your rotors are in good shape, after driving around for a day or 2 try bedding them in again. Limit it to 8-10 stops but make sure the last 3 or so are activating the ABS at te end of the stop. It may go away. If not, I strongly recommend the Axxis Deluxe Plus (I guess the Plus is for cleanliness). LOL
http://zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm<ul><li><a href="http://zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm">http://zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm</a</li></ul>
http://zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm<ul><li><a href="http://zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm">http://zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm</a</li></ul>
#16
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at Zeckhausen. He knows a lot.<ul><li><a href="http://zeckhausen.com">http://zeckhausen.com</a</li></ul>
#17
AudiWorld Super User
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is a hit or miss process depending on who you use.
The only way to surface a rotor to specs that will guarantee a flat smooth surface is to have them blanchard(sp?) ground.
It's very expensive ($400 last time I did it) and it's not usually done on used rotors. Racers do it alot to achieve the best heat results across a rotor and take the irregularities out of a stock rotor.
Standards for re-surfacing a rotor are held to 8/1000 of allowed runout.
I can feel that amount of runout in a brake pedal and I suspect your squeal problem might be due to this runout variance.
If you experienced considerable fade when you went through the bedding process than you have done the job of heating the pads. It won't hurt to do it once more to be sure and to eliminate the chance that the pads are causing the squeal.
If the squeal persists than I would change rotors before buying new pads.
I don't have a rotor recomendation since I have only used stock rotors on my Audi's.
Several on this forum have had good luck with a few different brands and a search of the forum will bring up those threads.
Some of the pads mentioned here will probably make the problem worse since they are designed to run at a higher temperature and normally squeal when driven around town.
Good luck, I feel the pain your causing others when driving down the street!
The only way to surface a rotor to specs that will guarantee a flat smooth surface is to have them blanchard(sp?) ground.
It's very expensive ($400 last time I did it) and it's not usually done on used rotors. Racers do it alot to achieve the best heat results across a rotor and take the irregularities out of a stock rotor.
Standards for re-surfacing a rotor are held to 8/1000 of allowed runout.
I can feel that amount of runout in a brake pedal and I suspect your squeal problem might be due to this runout variance.
If you experienced considerable fade when you went through the bedding process than you have done the job of heating the pads. It won't hurt to do it once more to be sure and to eliminate the chance that the pads are causing the squeal.
If the squeal persists than I would change rotors before buying new pads.
I don't have a rotor recomendation since I have only used stock rotors on my Audi's.
Several on this forum have had good luck with a few different brands and a search of the forum will bring up those threads.
Some of the pads mentioned here will probably make the problem worse since they are designed to run at a higher temperature and normally squeal when driven around town.
Good luck, I feel the pain your causing others when driving down the street!
#18
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the runout could really be the [majority] problem [even after having them resurfaced, which when you think about it, is done a lot by many shops and dealers to prevent noise in the first place, but I'm sure they check runout after mounting the rotors].
I know that the pads (mintex reds) aren't bad pads at all.
I will probably go with solid rotors from brembo or oem (zimmerman solid).
Thanks for all your help.
I know that the pads (mintex reds) aren't bad pads at all.
I will probably go with solid rotors from brembo or oem (zimmerman solid).
Thanks for all your help.
#19
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I just put Mintex reds on my A6 Avant with the A8 BRake rotor from ECS tuning. I did the same as you, anti squeal on the pads(backs) and Antiseize on the moving parts....rated to 2000deg. THey still sqeaked after bedding them in.....until I cleaned real well with brake larts cleaner and washed the car. I think it just takes time to bed and then clean off the rotors and pads by regular washing. I would never suggest spraying anything in the rotors to remove sqeal other than the above mentioned brake cleaner for cleaning.
If they feel good and brake safely, then wait it out. It might go away.
If they feel good and brake safely, then wait it out. It might go away.
#20
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this is what I was hoping for, that the noise may go away with time. The noise has changed pitch and the pedal pressure needed to make the noise is different, but it still makes the noise nonetheless.
I will try another bedding session when I have time. Maybe I'll wash the wheels and rotors off later. Might help.
I will try another bedding session when I have time. Maybe I'll wash the wheels and rotors off later. Might help.