misfire bank 1
03-04-2016, 04:51 PM
#1
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misfire bank 1
I have a mis fire all down b1 and a random multiple for codes, i can watch the misfires stop on vagcom after about 1300 rpm, ive got both egt's replaced b1 upstream o2 replaced new updated coil packs with icm delete from ecs tuning and coolant temp sensor replaced and did my water pump an timing belt and, sai delete that previous owner. Not sure where to go from here
Last edited by shadowmav; 03-04-2016 at 04:52 PM. Reason: update
03-04-2016, 05:06 PM
#3
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I'm guessing you have a 2.7T given the egt….
I have a mis fire all down b1 and a random multiple for codes, i can watch the misfires stop on vagcom after about 1300 rpm, ive got both egt's replaced b1 upstream o2 replaced new updated coil packs with icm delete from ecs tuning and coolant temp sensor replaced and did my water pump an timing belt and, sai delete that previous owner. Not sure where to go from here
what codes?
03-04-2016, 05:09 PM
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03-05-2016, 12:13 PM
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03-05-2016, 05:06 PM
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03-06-2016, 11:25 AM
#7
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Looks like you have an APB code engine;
OTOH, it also looks like you replaced them with the ECS tuning kit so I'd have to think there's a poor connection somewhere. I recall reading somewhere about an aftermarket installation/conversion that had a misconnection in the wiring harness, but I can't definitively say for certain it was an ECStuning conversion kit.
Last edited by SloopJohnB@mac.com; 03-06-2016 at 11:31 AM.
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03-06-2016, 04:44 PM
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Mainly to check the power output stage for the bank with misfire. There are separate power output stages for left and right banks. If you can switch them and the miss(s) move to the other bank, then you know the bad power output stage needs to be replaced. Either N122 or N192. Audi/eBahn calls them power output stage, others call them ignition amp module or
OTOH, it also looks like you replaced them with the ECS tuning kit so I'd have to think there's a poor connection somewhere. I recall reading somewhere about an aftermarket installation/conversion that had a misconnection in the wiring harness, but I can't definitively say for certain it was an ECStuning conversion kit.
OTOH, it also looks like you replaced them with the ECS tuning kit so I'd have to think there's a poor connection somewhere. I recall reading somewhere about an aftermarket installation/conversion that had a misconnection in the wiring harness, but I can't definitively say for certain it was an ECStuning conversion kit.
Had misfire before icm change and did it to try and fix problem......all this has been to fix that problem......i believe i might have mistimed the motor, whereas i never use the cam lock bar an did it off of marks i made, has been running for 30 k like this an no big issue aside from the misfire codes
03-06-2016, 04:59 PM
#9
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OK, then it has to be a lean situation on that bank.
Had misfire before icm change and did it to try and fix problem......all this has been to fix that problem......i believe i might have mistimed the motor, whereas i never use the cam lock bar an did it off of marks i made, has been running for 30 k like this an no big issue aside from the misfire codes
Check the Y-pipe (TBB?), remove it if you have to. Common source of problems, especially if on one side or the other. Some people have found tears near the clamps after they remove the pipe.
03-10-2016, 12:13 PM
#10
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With misfires isolated to all cylinders on bank1, I would have suspected a bad ICM. But since you did the ICM delete, then don't have ICM's to go bad. Easy to mistime engine if not using crank lock pin & cam lock bar. Could pull valve cover on bank 1 & check cam timing notch alignment to bearing cap arrows. With #3 cyl @ TDC combustion stroke, crank should line up with timing mark & crank lock pin could be installed (if you have one). With bank 1 cover removed, both intake & exhaust cams have timing notches in them, & the notches should align dead center to the arrows on the bearing caps. If not aligned...then buy a cam lock bar & redo your timing.
Last edited by CRuby; 03-10-2016 at 12:15 PM.