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Misfiring! Ready to go Postal

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Old 02-24-2011, 01:10 PM
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just pull the heads, if they are damaged send them to a shop for fixing, then put them back on yourself, you already learned a valuable lesson in correctly setting timing and you would save a TON on labor, plus we're always here to help
Old 02-24-2011, 01:52 PM
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skip the leakdown, use the borescope. You already know you don't have any compression...a leakdown test would show 100% leak! The borescope might tell you you have a stuck/bent valve or a holed piston.
Old 02-24-2011, 01:56 PM
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I cannot recommend pulling the head(s) yourself and then taking the vehicle to a shop to have them fix it/put it back together.

Those are called 'basket cases' and invariably the DIY'er that got in over their head has effed something up or broken/bent something or misplaced/lost something. One thing about taking it apart yourself is you know where you put all the pieces and hopefully what needed to be replaced/repaired as you took it apart.

Putting a basket case back together is generally priced appropriately...often at whatever labor it takes. You can't really use a labor book/manual except as a first approximation because...it's a basket case.
Old 02-24-2011, 02:28 PM
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Thanks a lot everyone. I have begun the teardown. "I am in a world of ****". My main issue is that I am under a time constraint. Between the tool rental and having only one car, I am stressin' a bit. But hey, what the hell, it's winter and still a few months from bike weather, so I got nothin' else going on.
I am going to post some progress updates with some pictures of the ugliness that I have caused. I will also be searching and asking some questions, so I will continue to add things daily.
Thanks again guys! You have given me the confidence to tackle this job.
Old 02-26-2011, 03:02 AM
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Are you f'ing kidding me! This is a nightmare from which I cannot awake!
It took me 8hrs just to get the head ready for removal. I didn't want to order any parts from ECS until I found which valves were bent, so I don't have the long Torx bit to remove the head bolts.
I have been hobby-wrenching for 20+ yrs, and have never encountered anything as difficult as this. I really hand it to those of you who can work on these 3.0's!
I am taking yet another break, so I doubt if I will have this car running before 2020.
Thanks for letting me rant.
Old 02-26-2011, 08:52 AM
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haha i hear you, audi has a problem of OVER engineering these cars
Old 02-26-2011, 09:03 AM
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Yeah, check on whether those headbolts are one time use! You may have to order a new set of head bolts if they're angle-tightened!
Old 02-26-2011, 09:14 AM
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the head bolts are TTY (torque to yield) that means you need to replace them after you remove them
Old 02-27-2011, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 2.7Lturbo
the head bolts are TTY (torque to yield) that means you need to replace them after you remove them
Other than the dealership, anyone know where I can find the bolts? Although, I will be forced to go to the dealership to purchase a vacuum switch that was damaged during the teardown and the missing intake seal.
I am able to see into the intake ports, and it looks like middle of the three valves is bent/stuck open. I ordered 4 of each valve type just in case. I'm hoping there is no damage to the head.
Due to the lack of running vehicles, I will be forced into getting my Porsche 924 project roadworthy. I'm pretty sure I can get it on the road quicker than the Avant. All it needs is a windshield and an alignment; Neither of which I will do, so there is little chance of f'up.
That is all for now. Until my parts show up, I will be cleaning the intake manifold, TB, and other miscellaneous dirty things.
As always, thank you the support/comments.
Old 02-27-2011, 12:40 PM
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in AZ we have a place called BAP import that has german parts, if you have a place liek that ti would go there, otherwise dealer it is,. also try going to the vw dealer, usually the part is the same, and the price is WAY less. just ask tthe 1.8t audi owners


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