jschick

ECS should have everything you need, call them if not listed, or Blau has them as well I was going to tell you about the Vac, valve to be carefull but forgot!

SloopJohnB@mac.com

genuineaudiparts.com also has them at somewhat cheaper than your local stealer..as always, balance local availability and sales tax against discount/shipping, etc.

SloopJohnB@mac.com

Not so much. If they were overengineered they wouldn't fail like this. For example, there is absolutely no good reason to make these engines 'interference' engines. And torque to yield fasteners are simply an assembly issue...not used in racing engines using ARP fasteners/studs for example. Perhaps they ARE over value-engineered for price/cost issues and for assembly.

Somehow I wonder if the hand-assembled Mercedes/AMG engines use TTY crap.

Cripes, even ARP connecting rod bolts for small block (or big block Chevy for that matter) engines aren't TTY...you tighten them to a specific stretch that is below the plastic yield point. Takes a dial indicator, but so what. If I was going to put some big hp on a blown V6 I would seriously consider ARP studs and nuts.

turtsavant

Okay guys, I received a whole crapload of parts, including valves, gaskets, tools, seals, etc. I have removed the head and found 1 bent intake valve on cyl 2, and 2 bent exhaust valves on cyl 1. This coincides with my compression test numbers, si I guess this is a good thing.
Now a couple questions:

1. Ummm, these valves are really small. Besides having the right tool, how the hell am I supposed to compress the ant-sized springs to get the nano-keepers out?

2. What is the best way to remove the factory sealant on the cam-body to head (the brown stuff) and do I need to use this same sealant when reinstalling?

3. If and when I get the new valves in, should I lightly lap them to seat properly or leave them alone and let it happen on its own?

Thanks again to all and keep on motoring.

2.7Lturbo

take it to a shop, im telling you this as a fellow dubber, ive rebuilt some 20 VW/AUDI heads and those damn keepers are the worst!!!! especially if you dont have the right tool to compress the springs.... i still wake up in a cold sweat from the nightmare they cause i kid, but seriously they are a pain, and a good shop should be able to do it for about 200-300, or look for a local gear head in the vw world.

but what do i know right tim?...... (eye roll)

2.7Lturbo

hahahaha see told you i had nightmares , not a dubber anymore but still it was the advice i gave then and its the advice i give now.

turtsavant

I finally got the bad valves out! I fabricated a bastardized valve spring compression tool out of some Al flat stock and electrical conduit. It's pretty ugly, but it does the job. If anyone is interested, I can post some pics later.
The in. valve is mighty bent and the two ex. valves are not much better.
It's scary how easy it is to bend these things.
Other than the bent valves, the rest of the head assembly looks great. Everything looks brand-spankin' new, which is very good news for me.
I will post some pics of the valves and the tool later.
I still need to know if the sealant between the cam frame and the head is needed, so please let me know if anyone has an opinion.
Thanks.

jschick

I have only done 1 3.0 engine, but the one I did was a 2002 and it did not have any sealant on the cam caps? so we did not use anything when it went back together. but maybe someone else will chime in with the Bentley. You will need the torque specs for everything.

when you put those valves back in, that is where the fun starts, out is easy!
I found it best to use several small screw drivers. I put a magnet on the screw driver so it will be magnetized enough to hold the keeper, then remove the magnet when you need to drop the keeper. if you take too long the screw driver becomes magnetized and then it is best to swap to another screw driver! you want to be able to let go of the keeper on demand!! by the 3rd valve you should be pretty good at this!
and Yes you need to lap the new valves.
It sounds like you made a tool like I described to you earlier?? if so when you put the valves back in you will need to hold the valves in tight. a simple shim under the head is quick and easy. just cut a few pieces of cardboard to fit in the dome so the valves can't drop down with the head on the bench. also remember to protect the head surface, you don't want to banging or sliding around on your bench!!! again cardboard and a towel can work

turtsavant

Well, I can't believe it, but I have finally finished the repair/re-repair/re-re-repair. Though it was a nightmere, it was an excellent learning experience. What was the giggest lesson learned, you ask? These are not your average car. They are extremely well engineered and assembled. I know I'm not telling most of you anything you didn't already know, but for those of us who are new to Audi's, this is the most important thing we need to know to successfully repair these cars.
There is no substitute for the proper tools and high quality parts.
Follow all instructions TO THE LETTER.
Do NOT attempt to skip the steps in the manual or given directions. You will f'up your ride.
It is of paramount importance that you get a high quality torque wrench and use it for every nut and bolt.
Ask the gracious, knowledgable people on this forum. They will help you with any problem. Don't be afraid to ask any question, any time. They will help you.
I would also like to thank the great people at Blauparts for supplying me with the highest quality parts and allowing me to keep the timing belt tools for what seemed like a lifetime. Call them, they are very good at what they do.
And again, thanks to everyone here for there advice and encouragement. I could not have done it without you!
I will hopefully be able to help someone like you helped me.

2.7Lturbo

can we sticky this guys previous post!! lol couldnt have said it better, with the expection of anything lower then 15 ft-lbs i dont use a tq wrench as thats pretty much hand tight and a 1/4 turn at that point