New (old) Audi - trouble codes help/advice? 2000 2.7t
01-11-2012, 01:58 PM
#12
I'll have to double check my oil, I did notice a smell of burning oil this morning, but saw no oil under the car or on anything visible chassis-wise. The cam chain adjusters run via oil pressure then? I'll have to see if there is a pressure leak on them somewhere. So they must also have a pad that can wear out (to guide the chain as pressure is "adjusted") is this easy enough to check them? Pull the valve covers and look at them? Also will have to check the actual electrical connection too.
I'm pretty certain that I've had no collisions in the valve train/pistons etc. The car just would not run the way it is if there was a collision. It idles very smooth and accellerates pretty well - but there IS some random hesitation from time to time. I haven't driven it enought to figure out exactly what/when there is hesitation.
If the timing belt jumped even one tooth, wouldn't that be bad enough to make the car run horribly bad?
If the timing belt jumped even one tooth, wouldn't that be bad enough to make the car run horribly bad?
Timing can be off a few teeth with only power loss, potentially not detectable unless baselined against other like cars.
Check the belt timing first!!!!
01-11-2012, 01:59 PM
#13
If you're going this far, then I'm all in with 4D4 - get the timing bar, crank lock pin, and at least set the timing - but it may be a big time saver to just do your timing belt, waterpump, cam seals, adjuster seals, and valve cover gaskets all at this time. Removing the valve covers will make the cam seals easier when you do the timing belt, and doing the timing belt will make the cam adjuster seals easier when you do the valve covers...
As for those photos...they're not showing what you're looking for. In between the chain and the arrow on the cap that you CAN see in that photo, there is a square notch on the cam sprocket itself. It's pretty easy to see live, but photos are hard to capture.
Also, setting the crank to TDC is only going to have the cams right half the time - this is a small part of the reason for the locking bar. The crank turns 2X to the cams' 1 turn.
As for those photos...they're not showing what you're looking for. In between the chain and the arrow on the cap that you CAN see in that photo, there is a square notch on the cam sprocket itself. It's pretty easy to see live, but photos are hard to capture.
Also, setting the crank to TDC is only going to have the cams right half the time - this is a small part of the reason for the locking bar. The crank turns 2X to the cams' 1 turn.
01-11-2012, 02:06 PM
#15
Yes - the fact that you picked up on the plastic guides is correct. These do break and the 3.0 service bulletin did mention this I believe.
But, as 4D4 said....I'm not sure this is the answer.
We're not even sure these codes are coming back, are we? What if they were a left-over from a previous issue before you bought the car? That's my only thought.....it would suck to do this work and find nothing needed to be done. On the other hand, doing this work on a new-to-you car at least gives you a baseline for a maintanence schedule and may be worth it anyway.
But, as 4D4 said....I'm not sure this is the answer.
We're not even sure these codes are coming back, are we? What if they were a left-over from a previous issue before you bought the car? That's my only thought.....it would suck to do this work and find nothing needed to be done. On the other hand, doing this work on a new-to-you car at least gives you a baseline for a maintanence schedule and may be worth it anyway.
01-11-2012, 02:07 PM
#16
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okay okay.... I get it! Thanks for all your input. Guess I have a very large job in my very near future. Anyone have $500 I can borrow for parts!? j/k
I actually have two Audis. My other one is a 2000 A6 Avant, with the NA 2.8 V6 in it. That bad boy is due for a timing belt and I've got a water leak too, probably the water pump itself from the looks of it.
Anyone want to come over and help me do 2 timing belt jobs one right after another?? lol
I actually have two Audis. My other one is a 2000 A6 Avant, with the NA 2.8 V6 in it. That bad boy is due for a timing belt and I've got a water leak too, probably the water pump itself from the looks of it.
Anyone want to come over and help me do 2 timing belt jobs one right after another?? lol
01-11-2012, 02:13 PM
#18
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We're not even sure these codes are coming back, are we? What if they were a left-over from a previous issue before you bought the car? That's my only thought.....it would suck to do this work and find nothing needed to be done. On the other hand, doing this work on a new-to-you car at least gives you a baseline for a maintanence schedule and may be worth it anyway.
Since I cleared my codes initially, and thus far haven't had any failures, I'm certain I can drive the car around a bit more before I do anything further. I'm pretty confident whatever is going on isn't going to grenade the motor just yet. I can wait patiently for a new code to pop up while I do the timing job on my other Audi lol
01-11-2012, 02:15 PM
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Colorado. More specifically, Colorado Springs. Looks like there is a VW/Audi group local to here. I might swing by the meeting they have on Saturdays and see if I can meet anyone helpful =)
01-13-2012, 03:04 AM
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On the 6th picture down on the side with the chain sprockets, you see small triangles cast into the bearing caps. When the crank is at TDC there are little windows on the chain sprocket that line up with these triangles. It is VERY apparent when you open it up.