Noise in front wheels
10-26-2002, 09:46 PM
#1
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Noise in front wheels
Its difficult to describe. When i am taking a turn while my foot is in pedal, there is THUNK noise from opposite side of the front wheels.(No its not ESP kicking in) The dealer changed the tie rods but the noise is still there.
Sometimes, the noise comes when my foot is on brake, car is stationery and I am turning the steering.
What can it be?
Sometimes, the noise comes when my foot is on brake, car is stationery and I am turning the steering.
What can it be?
10-26-2002, 10:58 PM
#2
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broken CV joint
Boy, your dealer stinks. He should have known that.
If it happens when going from gas to brake or back, or when you make violent steering wheel turns, then it is a broken CV joint.
If it happens when going from gas to brake or back, or when you make violent steering wheel turns, then it is a broken CV joint.
10-26-2002, 11:24 PM
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Re: broken CV joint
When he was writing my complaint, he told me its CV joint. What is a CV joint? The rubber boot that covers the front axle joints? That has been changed(at 30kKm left and at 40kKm right). (I can see that rubber boot when steering is on extreme(its not broken - as if broken, it paints greese all around)
CV= Constant Velocity?
CV= Constant Velocity?
10-26-2002, 11:29 PM
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Yup "constant velocity"...the joint is within the boot...
sounds like it is worn out...
Are you saying there is or is not grease "leaking" out of the boot...usually when a joint goes it means there has been a leak for a while and the joint gets contaminated with road grime, grit, etc which wears the joint out...usually the joint sits within a boot of nice clean "sterile" grease...
Are you saying there is or is not grease "leaking" out of the boot...usually when a joint goes it means there has been a leak for a while and the joint gets contaminated with road grime, grit, etc which wears the joint out...usually the joint sits within a boot of nice clean "sterile" grease...
10-26-2002, 11:33 PM
#5
Yeah, what Finny said. Couple of scenarios here...
1. When you had the torn boot a lot of crap got in there and ruined the joint.
2. When you had the torn boot, all the grease leaked out, generated extra heat, and ruined the joint.
3. When they repaired the torn boot, they did not properly clean and re-lubricate the joint and now it is ruined.
-st
2. When you had the torn boot, all the grease leaked out, generated extra heat, and ruined the joint.
3. When they repaired the torn boot, they did not properly clean and re-lubricate the joint and now it is ruined.
-st
10-26-2002, 11:37 PM
#6
Here is a pic of a torn boot for those that have never seen one.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/25380/dsc01165.jpg"></center><p>This is actually off a Volvo 850, but don't tell the moderators : )
-st
-st
10-26-2002, 11:42 PM
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Re: Yup "constant velocity"...the joint is within the boot...
Read the CV joint repair article. Yes i understood CV joint right. We call it axle joint. The rubber boot is what i check for every 5000km(I live in hot climate). No Finman - its not leaking greese. The boot is perfect(no cuts etc)
What experience I had with Jap cars is that when it(CV) fails, it produces clicking noise(tick tick tick) when TURNING sharply. No connection to breaks. The noise I refer comes only once when turning.(the best representation will be something loose in ur glove box hitting against the wall)
I hear the noise when I am turning WITH BREAKS ON. If I turn sharply, with no breaks, no noise. And again I stress, this noise is not ESP kicking in. Sometimes I can reproduce noise with car stationery and foot on pedal and turning the steering sharply.
My guess- something in steering rack or break assembly(i have consistent problem with breks welded to rotor(high temp, high humidity)
Why the dealer changed my tie joints? My delare SUCKS big time. They are unable to repair my first complaints since I bought my car(speakers make noise at drum beats, idle vibration, and wind noise)
You people(americans) are so lucky... You got consumer protection. And a choice of dealers
What experience I had with Jap cars is that when it(CV) fails, it produces clicking noise(tick tick tick) when TURNING sharply. No connection to breaks. The noise I refer comes only once when turning.(the best representation will be something loose in ur glove box hitting against the wall)
I hear the noise when I am turning WITH BREAKS ON. If I turn sharply, with no breaks, no noise. And again I stress, this noise is not ESP kicking in. Sometimes I can reproduce noise with car stationery and foot on pedal and turning the steering sharply.
My guess- something in steering rack or break assembly(i have consistent problem with breks welded to rotor(high temp, high humidity)
Why the dealer changed my tie joints? My delare SUCKS big time. They are unable to repair my first complaints since I bought my car(speakers make noise at drum beats, idle vibration, and wind noise)
You people(americans) are so lucky... You got consumer protection. And a choice of dealers
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10-26-2002, 11:46 PM
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Re: Yeah, what Finny said. Couple of scenarios here...
This can be a point. Maybe they didnt clean it while putting the new boot. But read my above post - Isnt CV joint supposed to make more than one thunk noise. On turning - it just does ONCE.
And is this joint covered by warranty? I just replaced my tie joints(dealer sid no warranty on tie jnts).
I think dealer does bad things to my car to destroy stuff(or they just dont ****ing care)
And is this joint covered by warranty? I just replaced my tie joints(dealer sid no warranty on tie jnts).
I think dealer does bad things to my car to destroy stuff(or they just dont ****ing care)
10-26-2002, 11:59 PM
#9
I've never busted a CV joint on my A6, but a broke a couple on my grand cherokee.
Basically, if you cut the wheel all the way at slow speeds, it would buck and make an odd cracking/popping sound.
It's hard to say if your dealer caused the failure by not repairing it properly. How much time passed between the actual occurence of the tear and when you took it in for service? Was the actual wheel hot after you would go for a drive?
-st
It's hard to say if your dealer caused the failure by not repairing it properly. How much time passed between the actual occurence of the tear and when you took it in for service? Was the actual wheel hot after you would go for a drive?
-st
10-27-2002, 01:10 AM
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Re: I've never busted a CV joint on my A6, but a broke a couple on my grand cherokee.
The pop sound(or thunk) comes when the wheel is approx 75% turned. My car is 50kKm now. Changed boots at 30k and 40k.
The temp here is 47+(C) in summers(humidity=100% in nights). The only month when AC is off is Jan-Feb.(and we live in Northern hemisphere - Dubai - if you have heard). The breaks(stock) from Audi are useless in this climate and I need to poslish the rotor every 10kKm. The actual wheel(the rim?) is always boiling hot. So much heat is generated that to check tire pressure I have wait for 10 mins to cool.
I drove 2000km when i first saw the crack and got it repaired(no the boot was still filled with grease- it was not empty)
The temp here is 47+(C) in summers(humidity=100% in nights). The only month when AC is off is Jan-Feb.(and we live in Northern hemisphere - Dubai - if you have heard). The breaks(stock) from Audi are useless in this climate and I need to poslish the rotor every 10kKm. The actual wheel(the rim?) is always boiling hot. So much heat is generated that to check tire pressure I have wait for 10 mins to cool.
I drove 2000km when i first saw the crack and got it repaired(no the boot was still filled with grease- it was not empty)