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Oil Leak - 99 A6 2.8 - Comming from crank seal or upper oil pan seal?

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Old 07-08-2009, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JerzyBoy973
Doing it all at once definitely makes life easier. If you're getting your kits from Blau Parts you'll have duplicates but it's not a big deal.
Concur. You'll have one front and one rear seal left over. Couple of dollars each.
Old 07-08-2009, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
No. But it sure is a lot easier.

I would strongly urge you not to do this. It is far easier to do the cam adjuster seals (#3) and the cam seals (#5,6) at the same time as the belt. In fact, the belt has to come off to get to 3 of the cam seals. So not only would you have to take the bumper off and put the nose in service position, but you'd basically have to redo part of the timing belt job.

For the life of me, I cannot understand why the "enhanced" kit has only two cam seals in it. Further, I don't understand why the VCG kit has two front and two rear seals. On the car, there are 3 front seals and one rear seal. FWIW, I use an identical seal for all four.

Wait until you have all the parts. IMHO, a timing belt job is not complete without replacing all the seals. It is a major headache to attempt to replace them later. Do it once, do it right.
I really appriciate these advices. I hope one day I'll know enough about these cars, and be able to give back to the community.
The problem is the timing belt kit arrives this Friday, which means I only have the coming weekend to work on it. And I think Blauparts only ship fedex ground.

And since I just bought this car, I need to have it smog checked as soon as possible to comply to the law. So I am really tempted to just do what I have this weekend.

I've seen write up https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=15202978 of replacing cam adjuster seals without TB removal. That seems doable.

Does the TB tool kit come with a special tool to remove the front cam seals without the valve cover?

I suppose the rear cam seals are the ones that need to be replace with the cams removed (and thus the TB removed), how leaky are the rear cam seals?

I didn't order the Valve cover kit with the TB kit becaues one can rent only the cam chain tensioner tool with the the Valve cover kit. Wouldn't someone need the TB tools to replace all the items included in the valve cover kit?

>"In fact, the belt has to come off to get to 3 of the cam seals. "
Which 3 seals are you refering to ?
Old 07-08-2009, 03:56 PM
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Why do you need a new timing belt to pass smog?

What are you going to do about the 2 other cam seals and the plugs? Note that the write up you cited is for the 2.7. The 2.8 is more difficult because of the combi valve on bank one. If you must do it this weekend, source the rest of the parts locally.

Don't rush this job.
Old 07-08-2009, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
Why do you need a new timing belt to pass smog?

What are you going to do about the 2 other cam seals and the plugs? Note that the write up you cited is for the 2.7. The 2.8 is more difficult because of the combi valve on bank one. If you must do it this weekend, source the rest of the parts locally.

Don't rush this job.
The crank seal is leaking so much oil that it is not road worthy to run for an hr before the smog check, not to mention the smog check guy doesn't want his shop floor to be covered in oil.

The plugs, according to my reaserch is easy, and can be done without removing anything, please correct me if I am wrong.

so how leaky are the real cam seals?

The problem with getting the parts locally is finding the cam chain compression tool.
Old 07-08-2009, 04:43 PM
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There is only one rear cam seal (bank two). There are two cam seals at each exhaust cam in the front where the sprockets are. The fourth cam seal is also a front seal on bank one where the intake cam protrudes for the cam position sensor. This seal can only be changed with the timing belt removed.
Old 07-08-2009, 07:32 PM
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I have a leak as well but at the crank sensor seal in the back. I will put it in the shop and have someone do that along with the valve cover gasket since it will be off as well just to get at the source. If someone here has a great write up on a diy than I am all for that. I smell oil every once in a while...so it is a slow leak. I just made my first trip in it to Dallas Tx from Iowa and back with ac on all the way and it ran like a charm/
Old 07-08-2009, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Driver4
There is only one rear cam seal (bank two). There are two cam seals at each exhaust cam in the front where the sprockets are. The fourth cam seal is also a front seal on bank one where the intake cam protrudes for the cam position sensor. This seal can only be changed with the timing belt removed.
I can't find this info on the Bentley manual or online. Is there a write up for the one rear cam seal? Does the timing belt have to come off ?
Old 07-09-2009, 03:00 AM
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The rear cam seal does not require removal of the timing belt, only the front three. You will, however, have to disconnect a coolant time to get the cover/sensor off to access the seal.

The two heads are identical, not mirror images. Therefore, the front of bank one is the same as the rear of bank two. Once you change the third front cam seal, you'll have an idea of what the rear seal is like.

Again, I would strongly urg you to do the value cover gasket and all the seals at the same time.
Old 07-10-2009, 10:26 AM
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Ok... ordered the Valve cover kit with fast shipping, so I can install it on Monday.. The plan this weekend is to install the whole timing belt kit , minus the 2 cam seals. Clean the green valve and vacuum jet pump, button up enough to start the engine and verify oil leak at the crank has stopped.

On Monday, I'll install the cam seals with the cam off. I like the idea of verifying the oil leak has stopped before I open up the valve cover and mess with the timing chain.

How does that sound?
Old 07-10-2009, 11:52 AM
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Works for me, if it works for you. Expect the job on Monday to take longer than the timing belt job.


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