oil pressure, gonna change the pump, what do you think?
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hi everyone,
once in a blue moon my oil light would come on, (oil can symbol on dash and beeping). it would only appear after a fast run and when dropping down to low rpm, accelerating and going above 1500 rpm it would go out again. the first time it happened i thought ****e, i pulled over, checked things out, then continued on home carefully. my first thought was maybe a one off so i changed the oil and oil pressure switch. all was good for a few weeks, then and now fairly often the light comes on again. this so far makes sense as a low pressure problem due to that the oil thins out when she gets really warm, say after a long run, restriction becomes less and so the pressure drops. I am using the recommended castrol syntes 5w40 oil for the summer, and i beleive changing to a thicker grade would just temporarily solve the problem.
I checked the specs and connected a oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure switch location and heated up the oil as required. the specs say 29 p.s.i min at 2000rpm, no other specs were given, like a psi at a higher rpm. once the oil heated up i could only get 25 psi at 2000 rpm although i could get between 50-60psi above 4000 rpm. I plan on changing the oil pump first and maybe pulling off a couple of main caps and rods to see if there is any bearing damage or excess clearance.
so i was just wondering if any or you guys had changed the pump before or had any syptoms like mine before and what was the outcome.
the engine still sounds smooth, with no mechanical or tappet noise. any tricks i need to know when changing the pump?
thanks.
once in a blue moon my oil light would come on, (oil can symbol on dash and beeping). it would only appear after a fast run and when dropping down to low rpm, accelerating and going above 1500 rpm it would go out again. the first time it happened i thought ****e, i pulled over, checked things out, then continued on home carefully. my first thought was maybe a one off so i changed the oil and oil pressure switch. all was good for a few weeks, then and now fairly often the light comes on again. this so far makes sense as a low pressure problem due to that the oil thins out when she gets really warm, say after a long run, restriction becomes less and so the pressure drops. I am using the recommended castrol syntes 5w40 oil for the summer, and i beleive changing to a thicker grade would just temporarily solve the problem.
I checked the specs and connected a oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure switch location and heated up the oil as required. the specs say 29 p.s.i min at 2000rpm, no other specs were given, like a psi at a higher rpm. once the oil heated up i could only get 25 psi at 2000 rpm although i could get between 50-60psi above 4000 rpm. I plan on changing the oil pump first and maybe pulling off a couple of main caps and rods to see if there is any bearing damage or excess clearance.
so i was just wondering if any or you guys had changed the pump before or had any syptoms like mine before and what was the outcome.
the engine still sounds smooth, with no mechanical or tappet noise. any tricks i need to know when changing the pump?
thanks.
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just an update to those that are interested, i ended up replacing the oil pump even though i could have re-used the old one as it had very little wear with only slight scoring on the pressure control slug due to the foreign material. i rechecked pressures after and i now have 34psi at 2000rpm with the oil at 200f, had 25psi before (spec is 29 at 175f), and 15psi at idle where before it was around 8psi. i just have to now figure out where those pieces came from.
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hi,
its real easy to replace, just pull off the oil pan, three bolts hold it to the block, lower it down, disconnect from the drive chain and reverse to install. you could probably do this from start to finish in about 1-2 hours, including draining and refilling with oil. skill level required 2 out of 5 i'd say.
its real easy to replace, just pull off the oil pan, three bolts hold it to the block, lower it down, disconnect from the drive chain and reverse to install. you could probably do this from start to finish in about 1-2 hours, including draining and refilling with oil. skill level required 2 out of 5 i'd say.
#6
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hi everyone,
once in a blue moon my oil light would come on, (oil can symbol on dash and beeping). it would only appear after a fast run and when dropping down to low rpm, accelerating and going above 1500 rpm it would go out again. the first time it happened i thought ****e, i pulled over, checked things out, then continued on home carefully. my first thought was maybe a one off so i changed the oil and oil pressure switch. all was good for a few weeks, then and now fairly often the light comes on again. this so far makes sense as a low pressure problem due to that the oil thins out when she gets really warm, say after a long run, restriction becomes less and so the pressure drops. I am using the recommended castrol syntes 5w40 oil for the summer, and i beleive changing to a thicker grade would just temporarily solve the problem.
I checked the specs and connected a oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure switch location and heated up the oil as required. the specs say 29 p.s.i min at 2000rpm, no other specs were given, like a psi at a higher rpm. once the oil heated up i could only get 25 psi at 2000 rpm although i could get between 50-60psi above 4000 rpm. I plan on changing the oil pump first and maybe pulling off a couple of main caps and rods to see if there is any bearing damage or excess clearance.
so i was just wondering if any or you guys had changed the pump before or had any syptoms like mine before and what was the outcome.
the engine still sounds smooth, with no mechanical or tappet noise. any tricks i need to know when changing the pump?
thanks.
once in a blue moon my oil light would come on, (oil can symbol on dash and beeping). it would only appear after a fast run and when dropping down to low rpm, accelerating and going above 1500 rpm it would go out again. the first time it happened i thought ****e, i pulled over, checked things out, then continued on home carefully. my first thought was maybe a one off so i changed the oil and oil pressure switch. all was good for a few weeks, then and now fairly often the light comes on again. this so far makes sense as a low pressure problem due to that the oil thins out when she gets really warm, say after a long run, restriction becomes less and so the pressure drops. I am using the recommended castrol syntes 5w40 oil for the summer, and i beleive changing to a thicker grade would just temporarily solve the problem.
I checked the specs and connected a oil pressure gauge at the oil pressure switch location and heated up the oil as required. the specs say 29 p.s.i min at 2000rpm, no other specs were given, like a psi at a higher rpm. once the oil heated up i could only get 25 psi at 2000 rpm although i could get between 50-60psi above 4000 rpm. I plan on changing the oil pump first and maybe pulling off a couple of main caps and rods to see if there is any bearing damage or excess clearance.
so i was just wondering if any or you guys had changed the pump before or had any syptoms like mine before and what was the outcome.
the engine still sounds smooth, with no mechanical or tappet noise. any tricks i need to know when changing the pump?
thanks.
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i have been using only german filters, (cant remember name) but this car has 200,000km on it so cant vouch for the previous owner, although car did come with full dealer service history. the piece i found was like a retainer of sorts, but too big to be an oil filter part.
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#9
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looks like a retainer of sorts to me, hopefully foriegn to the car.
#10
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i had another post about the pieces i found and a few photos i took link : https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2789338
looks like a retainer of sorts to me, hopefully foriegn to the car.
looks like a retainer of sorts to me, hopefully foriegn to the car.
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