Oil in spark plug threads = leaking valve covers?
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Changed my plugs on my 2.7 and found some very light coating of oil on the threads. None of the oil was on the electrode.
I had valve covers and all other leaks fixed about 1.5 years back or 14k back. Is it possible the leaks are back after Only 14k??
I smell no burning oil, no oil residue on engine.
No odd smoke from engine on warm or cold starts.
Coolant is leaking but is of normal color lol.
What do you guys think?
The oil was found in 4/6 cylinders. Very light amount of oil. Not coated in oil.
I had valve covers and all other leaks fixed about 1.5 years back or 14k back. Is it possible the leaks are back after Only 14k??
I smell no burning oil, no oil residue on engine.
No odd smoke from engine on warm or cold starts.
Coolant is leaking but is of normal color lol.
What do you guys think?
The oil was found in 4/6 cylinders. Very light amount of oil. Not coated in oil.
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Not necessarily. Oil in the casting hollow where the hole for the spark plug (and the plug) goes is the sign of leaking valve covers. Oil in a puddle at the bottom yes. But if all you have is a little oil on the plug threads and nothing in the bottom then you don't have a problem. Yet.
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Not necessarily. Oil in the casting hollow where the hole for the spark plug (and the plug) goes is the sign of leaking valve covers. Oil in a puddle at the bottom yes. But if all you have is a little oil on the plug threads and nothing in the bottom then you don't have a problem. Yet.
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I Pulled out my New spark plugs, just to check, and only one cyoinder was dry. It was the cylinder in the middle of the driver side.
Other spark plugs the threads had been lightly coated with brown oil. (i did use oil to Lube the Plugs before they went in) But this oil looked old unlike the new oil i used around the thread.
Anyway this time i cleaned up all the threads and put them back in dry.
I have a picture and i would say this spark plug (Pic Below) had the most oil in it. And again it was all the way at the bottom, NO OIL IN OR NEAR ThE ELECTRODE.
Other spark plugs the threads had been lightly coated with brown oil. (i did use oil to Lube the Plugs before they went in) But this oil looked old unlike the new oil i used around the thread.
Anyway this time i cleaned up all the threads and put them back in dry.
I have a picture and i would say this spark plug (Pic Below) had the most oil in it. And again it was all the way at the bottom, NO OIL IN OR NEAR ThE ELECTRODE.
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I Pulled out my New spark plugs, just to check, and only one cyoinder was dry. It was the cylinder in the middle of the driver side.
Other spark plugs the threads had been lightly coated with brown oil. (i did use oil to Lube the Plugs before they went in) But this oil looked old unlike the new oil i used around the thread.
Anyway this time i cleaned up all the threads and put them back in dry.
I have a picture and i would say this spark plug (Pic Below) had the most oil in it. And again it was all the way at the bottom, NO OIL IN OR NEAR ThE ELECTRODE.
![](https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment/u/0/?ui=2&ik=1c428fba7f&view=att&th=137d19bd82ee3609&attid=0.1&disp=inline&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P9z1YsBg8yPOjqULn8oIRMo&sadet=1339251564180&sads=rLpKgGInJKOGUyUMpC0_W4UWIN8&sadssc=1)
Other spark plugs the threads had been lightly coated with brown oil. (i did use oil to Lube the Plugs before they went in) But this oil looked old unlike the new oil i used around the thread.
Anyway this time i cleaned up all the threads and put them back in dry.
I have a picture and i would say this spark plug (Pic Below) had the most oil in it. And again it was all the way at the bottom, NO OIL IN OR NEAR ThE ELECTRODE.
PIC ATTACHED
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The warranty just expired 4 months back
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And use blue loctite on the nuts. Wow, 7ftlbs is 84 inch-lbs. Get an inch-pound torque wrench.
The blue loctite may lubricate the threads and cause a tighter compression...drop to 60 inch-lbs. This is a rule-of-thumb, more or less 10-55% decrease in torque relative to dry unlubricated threads.
The blue loctite will stop the nuts from loosening when the gasket hardens and shrinks.
Bentley says 10NM which is 88.5 inch lbs or a little over 7 ftlbs.
I like an inch-lb torque wrench, 25-150 inch-lbs. Never use a torque wrench at the bottom setting..it's not very accurate.
The blue loctite may lubricate the threads and cause a tighter compression...drop to 60 inch-lbs. This is a rule-of-thumb, more or less 10-55% decrease in torque relative to dry unlubricated threads.
The blue loctite will stop the nuts from loosening when the gasket hardens and shrinks.
Bentley says 10NM which is 88.5 inch lbs or a little over 7 ftlbs.
I like an inch-lb torque wrench, 25-150 inch-lbs. Never use a torque wrench at the bottom setting..it's not very accurate.
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[QUOTE=SloopJohnB@mac.com;24310182]And use blue loctite on the nuts. Wow, 7ftlbs is 84 inch-lbs. Get an inch-pound torque wrench.QUOTE]
I picked up an inch pound wrench at Harbor Freight and re-torqued all my valve cover nuts. Loosend them and then torqued them with the inch pound wrench. It clicks much more noticeably than the bigger ft. lb. wrench. Good idea Sloop!
I picked up an inch pound wrench at Harbor Freight and re-torqued all my valve cover nuts. Loosend them and then torqued them with the inch pound wrench. It clicks much more noticeably than the bigger ft. lb. wrench. Good idea Sloop!